stephen_justice

<p>Shot in 12 bit and 14 bit Raw format and go the same error message from Aperture--unsupported format. No problem with JPEG format. Is this an Aperture problem or a 880e problem? My Aperture version is 3.2.3/ Digital Camera RAW 3.12.0</p>

<p>Thanks for all the responses--I just wanted to know what our esteemed membership thought about the lens (our local camera shop has really been pumping up the hype on it; there is a $150 rebate and that takes the price under $500). Again, thanks for the comments--they were valuable)</p>

<p>Thanks for the prompt reply--I will take your advice re: the polarizer and the ND filter</p>

<p>Thought I posted this up earlier, but do not see it, so here goes again. I use my d300 and the Nikkor 18-200 for general photography. I hear a lot of buzz about the Tamron 18-270 and would like to know if the Tamron lens can deliver something the the Nikkor cannot. There is a lot of open space where I live, so most of the shots are scenic ones. I also have a 12-24 but I use that one mostly for car shows and similar subjects. All informed responses appreciated. </p>

<p>I would like to hear from the members what they think about this new lens from Nikon </p>

<p>I have used the pop up flash a lot lately, and the problem surfaced just about then. It has been professionally cleaned several times. The D200 is my "daily driver" that I keep in my backpack for whatever may come my way. I will send a message to Nikon tech, too.</p>

<p>I'm getting this error message with my D200 preventing me from firing the shot. It just started happening and is intermittent up to a point where it becomes continuous. The battery is fully charged, so I don't think that is the problem; could not find this error message in the user's guide. Thanks, as always, Stephen Justice</p>

<p>I had to use the DX 18x200 on the D700 at the race track a week ago. Generally, I have been using a 70x200 ED lens, but it was not back from being cleaned. The results were OK at the shorter focal lengths but awful at the longer end. The images were not sharp and there was obvious blurring, especially on the race cars coming at me. These are drag cars and I am right on top of them as I had a restricted access pass. I did not bring the monopod, so everything was hand-held. Even so, I have never had such tepid results in the past. Was it me or the combination of the DX lens on a FX body. I have another event in a couple weeks and cannot afford another screw up. Any and all comments/critiques would be appreciated; thanks--SJ</p>

<p>There was a garage sale up my street and there was a Canon 50 mm 1.8 lens in excellent condition. The lens cap said "the official 35mm camera of the 1980 Olympic Winter Games"; I paid $3 for it. Can't lose at $3, but what exactly did I get? Thanks,</p>

<p>Stephen Justice member since '07</p>

<p>The Huey Pro software has now been uninstalled and the IMAC set at the Apple default settings. Members have suggested several others to consider, so now I need to know which might be best for me. Since some of my stuff might end up in a drag racing magazine, I need to be sure that the colors are correct. So, let's hear some suggestions on which software I might want to use to calibrate the color on the monitor. Thanking everyone in advance, Stephen Justice</p>

<p>I bought Huey Pro Version 1 for PC/Mac to calibrate the color on my I MAC monitor. The instructions were simple and easy to follow but the results were terrible. Basically, the reds are now orange. I have repeated the process in varying degrees of light including very low light, but I can't get the colors corrected. I have contacted Pantone tech. help but they do not reply. Where did I mess up in this process; is there a simple solution for me? As always, thanks</p>

I cover drag racing events for a magazine and a web site. When i downloaded the images at the hotel, they were all BLUE. Somehow the

WB setting got set to INCANDESCENT rather than SUNNY. The histogram looked fine so I never thought to check any settings. Is there

any way to correct RBG balance so the shots can look NORMAL?

 

 

Stephen Justice

Pinole CA

I would like to know more about the focus ring and distance scale that is

immediately behind the zoom ring on this lens; not a lot of information in the

instruction booklet about this feature.

KL IX,

 

I guess I mean what lens would be "best suited" for what I intend to do. I need the wide angle lens for the concerns Matt brought up, and to capture both race cars at or slightly after they have "launched". I mentioned Ritz Camera because they have a program where one can take up to 10 months to pay for your toys; I have used this program a lot in the past. So, if I select the 100x300, what would be a good quality lens to complment it? If I can pay 1K for the Sigma, I probably can bounce for a similar amount for the wide angle lens. Thanks for the many responses; I have learned more about optics on this site from the posts than in an entire year at the track trying to squeeze information from the pros (and, I'm just an amateur)--Stephen Justice Pinole CA

See prior post from 5/11/207-"Best lens for the Task". I want to thank

everyone for the recommendations on the best big lens. Now, how about the wide

angle lens? Ritz Camera recommended the Nikon 12x24 and on this site the 17x35.

How do they differ? What are the pros and cons on one as opposed to the other?

Generally, I will be shooting at the drag strip, but I want to explore other

disciplines in photography (outdoors), too.

Thanks, Stephen Justice California USA

I want to thank everyone who contributed a response. I'm leaning towards Anthony's recommendation because it is less expensive and with the remaining funds,I might be able to purchase the wide angle lens as John suggests. He is right; I do need a wide angle lens, but again, which one do I select. John mentioned the 17x35 and 17x55; how do they differ.As always, your assistance is appreciated. BTW, I live in Northern California (Bay Area) which is a great place for photographers. We have one of the greatest urban park systems anywhere (East Bay Regional Park District--thousands and thousands of acres of unspoiled beauty right next to home). Stephen Justice

Elliott,

 

The only thing that separates me from the race cars is K railing. So, I'm right there. Last year I used the Canon Digital Rebel XT with a Canon 70x300 lens (see results in my portfolio). Generally, the race cars are moving toward the photographer, but one can always do just the opposite. I actually tried the Nikon 70x300 at a test race while waiting for the big one; the results were better than last year. I like to shoot at 1/1000 second at f8 using ISO=400, but I don't think that will work with the big guy. I looked at what other people had, but most are tight-lipped about it, so there is not a lot of information sharing at the track; thus, I'm here--Stephen Justice

I write stories (coverage and bios) for a drag racing magazine and a web site

devoted to that sport. My experience with writing far outways my knowledge of

photography, but I need to contribute my own pictures to support the stories.

After one year of learning, I decided to upgrade my equipment and purchased the

Nikon D200. My knowledge of lens is very limited, but thought the 80x400 would

work well for what I am doing. After joining this site, I'm not so sure. It

appears this is a great lens for birds and animals, but I will probably never

go there. There are several races coming up and I still have time to return it

and get one or more better suited for shooting real fast race cars zooming down

the drag strip. I posted once before, but I believe I did not explain my needs

clear enough to this audience. I have prepared a portfolio on this site, but

not sure if all members can access it. The portfolio shows, basically, the

types of photography I need to do. Thank you very much for listening, Stephen

Justice Pinole, CA, USA

I have been shooting at the drag strip since 02/2006. Last year I used a Canon

Rebel digital camera with a 70/300 lens. I have starting line privileges so I

can get real close to the race cars. This was a good prosumer camera, but

wanting something better, I purchased a Nikon D200 with a 80x400 lens. I shot

(genrally) manual mode at 400 ISO/f8/1/1000. This formula worked really good

for me. My new purchase has a totally different personality, and I'm not sure

how to get the most out of this combination. I put a Nikon 70x300 on the D200

and got good results at the track, but returned the lens for the 80X400. Did I

do the right thing? How do I get the most out of the bigger lens? How to I set

up the camera ISO/f/speed?? I put a few 2006 pictures up

at:www.photo.net/photos/stephen.justice