jmcneil

<p>Glenn,</p> <p>Thank you for the response. I have thought of this scenario, but one thing keeps bugging me. If I move my location and snap another shot from mid point of a different subject in the same location, then merge the two together, what's to prevent parallax error? Say for instance my reference point for the edge is a bush, if I photograph the bush from point A, it's one size in the photograph, if I go to point B, it becomes a different size... or is that my reference point for where the subject is going to be situated, the corner that is... do I make sure that the bush is X distance from the camera for both panoramas? X being distance measured of focal point in final location of print. </p>

<p>Alan and Kari,<br> Thank you both for your comments. I'll keep illumination compensation and trigonometry in mind when composing my shots. Thankfully Kari, we did some measurements from the major "lounge" points in the room and that has helped me a ton. Sometimes I don't have that luxury. </p> <p>Alan, thanks for the trick. I hadn't thought of this other than random guessing in PS. Don't know why I didn't either. White paper, light meter, presto. Bah, silly me and good on you sir. Thank you. </p>

<p>I originally posted this in the nature forum: http://www.photo.net/nature-photography-forum/00cdWu<br> but was instructed I might have better success getting more feedback here in the digital darkroom forum.<br> Here's the original post:</p> <p>Hello,<br /> Recently I've been doing a lot of landscapes and I got a job request from some of my personal work.</p> <p>The client wants a huge panoramic photograph to span two walls in his house. It's an impressive space one wall is 40ft x 10ft and the other wall is 24ft x 10ft (rough estimates for here).</p> <p>I've done some large format panoramas before so getting the print resolution correct isn't a problem and I have the right gear for the job so we're set there.</p> <p>The trick is that the client specifically told me he doesn't want the photograph to feel like a bent panorama turning from one wall to the next. He wants to feel like he's standing in whatever location I photograph, like there's no walls or like the seam in the corner doesn't exist. He explained to me that since the space has no windows he wants to feel like he's looking out of two windows in his house. He even suggested planning a tree in the final photograph to cover the bend in the wall, which I thought this was creative.</p> <p>Anyway, I'm wondering if any of you fine people have experience with this or can provide a few suggestions? Am I looking at some sort of forced perspective technique to achieve this? Would including more of the foreground help, or a low angle shot with a deep horizon line, so the bend appears lest evident? Or maybe even cutting part of the final image to anticipate the bend in the wall?</p> <p>I've also thought about taking one pano for the 24ft wall then moving center points and taking the pano for the 40ft wall, then finding a way to stitch the merging points. Yes, I'm already using stitching software for the, but I thought this might increase the effect that you're looking from two distinct points instead of a single point... or is that just crazy talk. Obviously paying attention to content and how it translates to it's final location will matter.</p> <p>The client did show me a photograph of what he was talking about from a hospital he worked at once and what he didn't want. I'll see if I can get those from him and post them here.<br /><br /><br /><br /> Thank you in advance, any advice will help, as always, each project presents it's own set of unique learning opportunities.<br /> Looking forward to a creative discussion. :)<br /> -J.</p>

<p>Thanks Thom, I'll do that.</p>

<p>Good news. I took my camera to a friend who is a bit of a gadget guru. We tested the camera thoroughly and discoed that the cardboard solution actually worked! </p> <p>The SQ-Ai is now fully functioning. I'm thrilled. Thank you guys for your help. </p> <p>-J.</p>

<p>Hello,<br> Recently I've been doing a lot of landscapes and I got a job request from some of my personal work. </p> <p>The client wants a huge panoramic photograph to span two walls in his house. It's an impressive space one wall is 40ft x 10ft and the other wall is 24ft x 10ft (rough estimates for here). </p> <p>I've done some large format panoramas before so getting the print resolution correct isn't a problem and I got the right gear for the job so we're set.</p> <p>The trick is that the client specifically told me he doesn't want the photograph to feel like a bent panorama turning from one wall to the next. He wants to feel like he's there, like there's no walls, like the seam in the corner doesn't exist. He explained to me that since the space has no windows he wants to feel like he's looking out of two windows in his house. He even suggested planning a tree in the final photograph to cover the bend in the wall. I thought this was creative. </p> <p>Anyway, do any of you fine people have any experience with this or any suggestions? Am I looking at some sort of forced perspective technique to achieve this? Would including more of the foreground help, or a low angle shot going deep into the horizon line so a bend appears lest evident? Or maybe even cutting part of the final image to anticipate the bend in the wall?</p> <p>I've also thought about taking one pano then moving center points and taking the other pano then finding a way to stitch the merging points. Yes, I'm already using stitching software for the pano, but I thought this might increase the effect that you're looking from two distinct points or instead of a single point or "bent panorama." Obviously paying attention to content will matter. </p> <p>The client did show me a photograph of what he was talking about from a hospital he worked at once and what he didn't want. I'll see if I can get those from him and post them here.<br /><br /><br /><br> Thank you in advance, any advice will help, as always, each project presents it's own set of unique learning opportunities.<br> Looking forward to a creative discussion. :)<br> -J.</p>

<p><em>"The good people at <a href="http://www.tamron-usa.com/contact/" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">Tamron USA</a> were able to provide me with a replacement."</em></p> <p>Unfortunately they no longer carry parts. They do repairs, but they assured me they didn't have this in stock anymore. So don't loose it again! :O<br> They referred me to Koh's, but they're on vacation til June 9th. I'll check back but directly calling Frank Marshman didn't work out either.<br> Seems like the older these get, the tougher it's going to be to get parts.<br> I'm tempted to build the part via 3D printing. I've got a friend who has one. If anyone would be willing to post pictures of it on a centimeter grid, I'd be most appreciative.<br> I'll even post the part online so others can download it and get it replaced if they need it.</p>

<p><em>"If you've missed it, this site has some useful stuff on the SQ system:</em><br> <em><a href="http://www.ayton.id.au/gary/photo/photo_BronicaSQ.htm" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.ayton.id.au/gary/photo/photo_BronicaSQ.htm"</a></em></p> <p>I'll check it out.<br> So I tested the cardboard solution. I've got the camera working, tested it on several settings and it's clear that it's only working at one shutter speed. My guess is 1/250. Which is what I was afraid of.<br> Back to the drawing board.</p>

<p>Ok. So this cardboard solution from Bastien! on Flickr looks like a win. I'll test it out and let people know if it's a reliable solution. Certainly the cheapest. <br /><br />https://www.flickr.com/photos/bastien/4221169973/</p> <p> </p>

<p>C Watson,<br> It's funny how the best solution is often the most obvious. I've Googled DIY solutions, but never just battery holder itself. Bah, silly me. Thanks. :)<br /><br />If I find something that works, I'll post it here.</p>

<p>C Watson,<br /> <br />Care to share your resources on hacks? I might know about them, but here's to the chance you've found something different.</p>

<p>I've lost the battery holder for my SQ-Ai. I've read what seems to be the few threads about this posted here. I saw the DIY solutions and those appealed to me. Has anyone confirmed that they work? Can I really solder the contacts to the batteries and BAM problem solved? If someone has tried this and would care to elaborate about their success/failure that would be awesome.<br /> <br /> I've already done my homework looking for a replacement part. I've plundered eBay, called Tamron, talked to Frank and Jimmy at KOH and have considered purchasing a junk body from KEH. No luck. Except with KEH, which I'd prefer to avoid since it's the most expensive option.<br /> <br /> I've also heard you could get the motor drive and bypass the camera's dedicated battery system. Are there other options? The motor drive sounds bulky. A battery pack perhaps? I've never seen one, so if anyone can point me in the right direction... again scouring eBay might work, if I knew what I was looking for.<br> Does anyone care to part with theirs? :D<br /> <br /> Any suggestions would be helpful. I want to get back to shooting. <br /> <br /> Thank you,<br /> J.</p>