darryn patch sydney austr

Lessoned worth learning are worth learning,

You will learn how to expose properly and it will become second nature to you by starting with film. Any flap jack can start up a digital camera and take 10 frames and check to see if the exposure is right, They'll eventually get it right but will they understand it? Will they really know how to meter correctly?? I think not.

I have friends who shoot digital and have never shot a roll of slide film and to be honest none of them would truly understand how to expose properly, they just shoot and check the pic on the back. Is that really going to give you knowledge and skill?

Film will give you a solid knowledge base on shutter speed, aperture and how they work together to correctly meter a scene. When you master how it all works together you will rarely screw up a shot.

I used to shoot film then spent 8 years shooting digital, Went back to film. 2 weeks ago I shot my first roll of slide film in a decade, Slide film has no room for error, maybe 1/3 of a stop. I nailed every frame. How many of my mates could do the same with 30 year old camera gear?? I bet maybe 1 out of 20. How many of them will eventually get the exposure right on a digital after taking a few test shots? 20 out of 20.

Stick with film until you need to go to digital, Digital is just a short cut to the end product. I don't like short cuts. They make you miss important details.

Film cameras will also give you a greater understanding and knowledge of composition, after all with digital just take the same important shot 10 times and tweak it every shot till you get one that looks right. With film you'll really pay attention to what you're doing.

With digital you'll take photos. With film you'll make photos.

I figure a couple of points are my issues. Firstly I've been (had been) digital for probably 8 years now and am proficient in image editing in PS but thats with RAW conversions.

The moniter I am using is a phillips flat screen LCD so that could be a problem and its never been calibtrated so I am pushing **** uphill to start with I quess.

The settings on the scanner seem somewhat ancient and limited. Rather than stuff around with scanning I am going to do this. The slides that are gold will be scanned at a lab. The others that are good I have a friend who gets awesome results from his scanner. He'll scan the slides for me.

I am prepared to pay for scans, This new slide thing shooting with FD gear is a blast, I got more satisfaction out of this roll of film than any day I have shot in the last 5 years. It is s true test of abillity and concentration to manually focus FD gear with slide film using a acamera that only adjusts in 1 stop increments.

To me this is what photography is about.

Today I picked up my first developed roll of slide film, Being such I was quite

apprehensive about the results. However when I picked them up I almost pissed my

pants, they were exceptional. Exposure dead on colours that were sensational,

sharpness that was so detailed I could make out detail in a surfboard when looking at

them through a 10x loup.

However when I scan them and attempt to edit them they are looking like dog cr@p. I

just can not get the sharpness or colours to be accurate.

I have experimented with settings on my scanner a Nikon super coolscan 5000ED but

no image jumps out at me like it does on a light box.

Here are a couple of examples.

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r53/patchy001/Image5.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r53/patchy001/Image3.jpg

http://i141.photobucket.com/albums/r53/patchy001/Image14.jpg

All of these images are super crisp and life like on the slides, what needs to be done to

get them as good onscreen as they are on the slides.

These were all shot with F1n FD 500/4.5L

Mike that film your chasing is called experience and knowledge. I been shooting surfing for 10 years, I know a good shot when I take it I don't have to look at the back of a camera to see if it will be good or not.

The dude firing relentlessly next to me will have garbage photos, the angle and light he was shooting into was no different to mine standing shoulder to shoulder you can generally tell what the result will be.

Maybe if you knew the sport your shooting inside and out, I've been surfing for 25 years and shooting it professionally for 10 you too might then know if you got a great shot or not.

With your response its clear you don't know the sport your shooting too well.

Film makes me disciplined like digital never could. For example the other day I was shooting surfing, I stood on the rocks for 3 hours manually focusing on every wave that came through, if it was not right for any reason I didn't press the shutter. Too much spray, bad turn, not barrelling enough, not a good surfer etc

After 3 hours I went home with 6 frames. Of those 6 all of them are gold without even seeing them I konw they will be awesome shots. A fellow next to me must have taken 500 frames in 1 hour 15 frames a wave and they all would have been binned.

Film to me is a discipline that many new digital photogs who have never shot film would not have the abillity to use. It is an art and a passion but more so it is a vision. Learning to see what is in the frame that detracts from your subject rather than just spraying and praying.

With film you make photos with digital you take photos.

I just hit the buy button at KEH for a FD 500/4.5 lens in EX+ condition and a

1.4xa extender.

Given that the glass is the same as the EF 500/4.5 lens how sharp can I

realistically expect this lens to be. I have owned 500/4.5 and IS versions.

they were very good.

Given that my eye sight is good and if I can manually focus this thing properly

will sharpness be on par with the EF lenses??

I am amped to now have a full FD lens line up and get on with making photos

again.

On a side note if I list my other FD lenses would it be OK for people to tell

me which ones to get rid of. I don't want it to be seen as an adhock way to

sell the lenses circumventing the buy and sell forum. OK if I subscribe to the

BS forum first that should solve that issue. Gee I'm smart. And a quick thinker.

Would the use of a polarizer be overkill with velvia 100.

I shoot alot of surfing and have not used one before as I just tweaked my files

in photoshop. Now that I am only shooting film would a filter do more harm than

good? I know I'll loose a stop or 2 that could be a cause for concern some days.

Will the slides be too saturated??

I am looking at buying bulk rolls of film and loading it myself.

How many frames can I get into a roll of film.

I just bought an EOS 3 and aquatech water housing, I don't go stupid when

shooting in the water but I don't want to have to get out and change rolls

every 36 shots. Is 50-60 frames out of the question on a roll?

I have almost finished accumulating gear to go back to film fulltime, I have my

New F1 and primes from 20 through to 300, still hunting a 500/4.5.

I have now ordered a Nikon 5000 ED film scanner and am reading as much as I can

about it but not really finding any solid info on settings etc. I am shooting

Reala and velvia 50, 100 and 100F.

Those who have this is there any tips in setting it up so as I don't have to

sepnd countless hours adjusting settings.

Any tips gladely taken on board.

Will a Fl mount lens fit onto an FD body? I think it does according to some

brief research

I have the chance to pick up a 300/2.8 FL lens and will buy it if it fits an F1.

I am trying to determine how the following works.

Lets say I have a lens that its maximun focus distance is 30 metres after that

it is infinity.

Does that mean if I am shooting a subject that is 50 metres away that I should

just turn the focus to infinty and leave it at infinity? I think this is right.

Now does that mean that subjects that all fall into the infinity range (longer

than 30 metres)will be in focus?

I am taking a 300/4 to the footy and have never shot with all this manual

focus gear, previously I would just continue to follow focus regardles of the

subject distance and the pics would be sharp. Given that I can't do this with

manual gear how would you ensure photos are sharp with subjects at varying

distances in the infinity range??

Please help I am doing my head in trying to work this out.

It just gets better everyday.

Today i picked up a 300/4 Non L in mint condition for $150AUD and just missed out on a bargain grade 500/4.5 with 1.4x and 2x converter for $600AUD. Seller had another buyer take it 10 minutes before I talked to him.

Rene I detect some sarcasim in your post?????

Yes I got a great deal just going through closed ebay auctions I am confident I got it at about 1/3 its real rate. I did no haggling just asked a few questions was from a deceased estate and paid what they wanted.

Reminds me of when I found 400 Phantom comics in a sealed box worth over $15000AUD. Gee I was pi**ed for a week after selling them. I tell you.

Sweet defiantly doesn't have alever on the front of the body.

What about the silver release knob on the 200???

I don't want to put the 200 on the body in case I can't get it off.

Well today it arrived, And I can't beleive what I got

Canon F1

Power winder FN

speed finder

24/2.8

50/1.8

135/3.5 macro

135/3.5-4.5

200/2.8IF

each lens has a new UV filter

SC focusing screen

cable release

off camera flash cords

a further 7 UV and polarizing filters all like new

Canon one touch bracket

various camera straps etc

All lenses are in excellent condition with 1 minor hickup

All of the above for $650AUD about $500USD what a bargain.

Now the 200/2.8 is missing the silver lens release knob is that an easy fix?

I have 2 50/1.4s can the ring that releases the lens be taken from 1 50/1.4 and

be put into the 200/2.8??

And secondly how can you tell a F1 from a new F1?

When turning the apperture ring on an FD lens that is not attached to a body

should the appeture open and close?

What lens types should I buy in the following focal range

24mm

50mm already got a 50/1.4SSC

80mm

100mm-150mm

200mm

300mm

400mm

As there is a wide vaiety of makes on these ranges what are the best ones to

buy of the smaller focal length looking at under $100 for each lens.

What about zoom lenses are they any good or should I stick to primes. I've just

dumped all me EF gear so FD is all new to me and quite confusing as there are 3-

5 different 50/1.4 or 24mm lenses.

Is there a scanner on the market that gives outstanding scans for both 35mm and

medium format.

I was going to go only MF but the desire to shoot 35mm is still too strong, So

I am looking for a scanner that will scan both.

Any recommendations on a model or more importantly ones to avoid.

Looking to spend around $800USD or $1000AUD max

Tom if your keen on surf photography go here.

www.surfphotographersforum.com

Not a bad site with a bit of useful info and frindly people ho will tell you how to expose for surfing, all be it digitally. But hey exposure is exposure no matter what format.

I used to use Reala 100 when not submitting for publication.

But at the end of the day your best images colour wise will come from Velvia 50 or 100. The colours are truely inspiring.

Peter your advice is exactly what I have decided to do. Pentax 67 is what I am going for.

The scanning side of things, well. I want to do it all create the shot have it processed than have it scanned for web use and web advertising as prints will be for sale.

I quess I just want to go back to the old school way. I've been digital for about 7 years and there really is no art to it. Point and shoot camera does it all then download and your done. All to mechanical for me.

Kinda like the bloke who has a mid life crisis and buy a 1950s car and does it up not that I am having a crisis but am looking for a more hands on approach to my photography.

I don't need digital it was only a business choice, but that business is finished. Was a race track photographer butthe tracks closed now.

I am reasonably confident that I am now going MF. I've had a good look at the Pentax 67 and it has some versatillty in that it has longer lenses which are quite cheap and reports show they ar every sharp at F11+

I looked at the Hassleblad CM series and am leaning more toward Pentax as it is more SLR orientated.

is their a compelling arguement that I should use a blad??

Now for an even dumber question can you scan MF negs at home and isfo what sort of scanner is going to produce quality scans or should I get them done professionally.

Main reason for dumping EOS is that I have about 10-12 grand in lenses that I simply dont need and if I sold them I could put alot of money in my pocket but still get the results needed by purchasing a different system.

Shooting 6-8 times a year when all of the weather elements combine sees me holding alot of money in glass that is not used often enough to justify owning that system.

I am almost certain that I will get out of EOS.