dallalb

<p>Hi, in my film days I used to expose a film frame multiple time in camera to get a multi-layer effect, following the rule of underexposing each shot of a number of stops according to the overall number of shots...<br>

Can someone tell me how to get this with digital post processing? I have a Canon EOS 5D II and there's no multi-exposure function as in my old EOS 3...<br>

Thank you for your help, Alberto.</p>

<p>I agree with you, Jean: I did the same thought! I personally would leave my remote control at home if I had such a feature on camera... With very low light or night photography, it's often not simple to use the remote control and the risk of loosing it is high!</p>

<p>Hi folks, I've read several posts about Hoya circular polariser for my Canon EF 24-105 lens (on a Canon 5D II body) and I'm a bit confused... Many users report vignetting useing filters at wide end (24 mm) but it seems due to the lens more that to the filter...<br>

I'm interested in two models: Hoya PRO 1 Digital Circular Pol. filter and Hoya HD series Circular Pol. filter... The latter seems to be very slim (good for avoid vignetting) but without front screw to fit the lens cap and it seems optically better (1 stop lost instead of 2?)...<br>

Do you have experience with this filters and lens combo? Besides I plan to buy a 17-40 f4 L lens in the near future... Will I notice strong vignetting with this wide zoom lens?<br>

Thank you for your help, Alberto.</p>

<p>In my film days I used to take multiple exposures on the same frame... I know that this is now possible with digital post processing, but is there a way to achieve multiple exposures straight from my Canon 5D II?<br>

Thank you, Alberto.</p>

<p>Just a curiosity, I don't know if this is the right forum... I know the dynamic range of a digital sensor decreases with higher ISO, but what about long exposures? Should I expect a lower dynamic range fro the camera?<br>

Thank you, Alberto.</p>

<p>Read this article: <a href="http://www.juzaphoto.com/eng/articles/live_view_mirror_lock_up.htm">http://www.juzaphoto.com/eng/articles/live_view_mirror_lock_up.htm</a> It seems the LV with delay timer (I use 10 instead of 2 sec.) to provide the best result... With the 5D II and its wonderful LV you don't need the mirror lockup anymore...</p>

<p>"Wishes!" in Italian! Playing with light an my 5D II...</p>

<p>Thanks, David... I didn't do a backup before....</p>

<p>I did it... Don't ask me why, I was distracted! I had just finished editing a folder of new shots in Lightroom 3.3 and I decided to rename them... I selected them all (CTRL + A on Win) and renamed them (F2 on Win)... Then the accedent: I wanted to delete one, but I didn't notice that they were still all selected after the renaming process... I pressed "Delete" and "Delete from disk" in the Lightroom warning window! I deleted all the files! I knew they were still in the recycled bin and I rescued them and re-imported into Lightroom, but... I lose all the adjustments! I fear they were deleted from the catalog database...<br>

Can anyone tell me if there is a way to get my adjustments back? Or should I redo the entire work?<br>

Thank you, Alberto.</p>

<p>Hi, I own a 5D II and a Speedlite 430EX I... I've noticed the same thing: I cannot control the flash functions from the camera's LCD. It's a problem of compatibility between the old flash and the new camera: the ETTL technology is of course supported, but not the interface, so you need to control the flash with its own commands or you need to upgrade to the 430EX II model to control the flash via the camera's LCD.<br>

Alberto.</p>

<p>Brian, I've just moved from an EOS 3 film camera to the 5D II and the latter seems the "natural" transition from analog to digital to me... I can only confirm all the suggestions the others gave you about exposure, dynamic range, RAW capture, etc. You will be pleased with the new camera and your "film background" will be very useful!<br>

I was surprised in particular by the shallow DOF the full frame sensor provides in comparison with film, but this can be a good news for your portrait works! But shooting with yours 135mm f/2L and 50mm 1.2L at full aperture can be critic about focusing!<br>

Regards, Alberto.</p>

<p>The answer is Adobe Lightroom! Try its Print Module and its ability to compose pages with multiple images... Very easy and intuitive!</p>

<p>When you use the bounce flash the internal flash zoom is disabled, since the camera cannot calculate the distance from the flash unit and the subject in terms of the path of the light... Only when your flash is straight to the subject this information is provided by the lens and it's displayed on the flash unit.<br>

But nothing change in the exposure strategy: when you take the shot the flash unit fires two flashes in a very narrow time (your eyes see them as a single impulse), using the former to calculate the subject's exposure and the latter to correctly light the scene. To avoid this behaviour you need to press first the FEL button so that a pre-flash is fired and the subject exposure achieved, then you can recompose the frame and take the shot and the flash unit will fire a single calibrated flash beam to light the scene.</p>

<p>Buy the 5D II today and enjoy it! It's a wonderful camera. Surely the 5D III will not double the quality of your shots compared to the 5D II, as the 5D II didn't double the quality of the 5D I (...but the pixel, yes!).<br>

The 5D II is already a capable camera, but it remains a tool... All the rest is Photography.</p>

<p>I've purchased a 5D II... Absolutely no regrets! Yes it's pricy compared to the 7D, but I think that if I would have choosen the 7D I will keep on struggling to search in the web this type of comparisons...</p>

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<p>Sorry Mendel, you are right: I have the 70-200 f4 lens, not the 2.8.</p>

<p>Thank you for yor suggestions. Dan I'm happy to know you're an expert on that subject: yes, I can search among your hundred threads, or you can summarize here with few words your thoughts... :-)</p>

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<p>Hi, I own the first two lenses and I'm planning to buy the third soon and I use them on a 5D II DSRL... Currently I don't have filters for these lenses and I really want to build a filtering system that possibly suits all these three lenses, starting from a polarizer and continuing with GND filters... Can someone give me suggestions? I know these lenses to have different filter diameters, so I think I need a holding system like the Cookin one, but I'm not sure about the dimensions and the vignetting risk...<br>

Thank you, Alberto.</p>

<p>This is my situation: I always shoot RAW files and manage/edit them with Lightroom 3. I import the RAW files from the CF card into Lightroom, making a second copy to an external hard drive. Then I convert the original RAW files into DNG files, because I wanted to work on these files and take advantages of the DNG format (more portable, without sidecar files) in the develop process. Then I review the DNG files to choose only the best shots and discart (delete) the others. After that, how can I delete the same files from the main original RAW files folder and from the copy on the external hard drive?<br>

My goal is to have few DNG files from a photographic session to work on (I try to keep only my best instead of filling hard disks of many redundant shots) and the same files archived in the original RAW format. I know I can embedd the original RAW in the DNG container, but this doubles the DNG file size!<br>

Can you tell me your strategy or suggest me something to improve my workflow?<br>

Thank you, Alberto.</p>

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