matthias_meixner2

<p>I have a 60D and the process described by Scott also worked without removing the lens.</p>

<p>Do the obvious: Get a faster lens.</p>

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<p>(Lower than 30% is not safe for other reasons.)</p>

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<p>What is the problem if humidity drops below 30%?</p>

<p>180 seconds by 25 frames per second is 4500 frames in total. So they took nearly 8 stills per frame. For me this looks like overkill.</p>

<p>You can combine several shots using any version of Photoshop: Load all images into the different layers of the target image. Align all layers so that the stars are at the same location. Now adjust the transparency/visibility: The lowest layer gets 100%, the next lowest 50% (=1/2), then towards the frontmost layer use 33% (=1/3), 25% (=1/4), 20%(=1/5), 17%(=1/6) and so on. This will reduce noise to about 1/sqrt(N) with N being the number of images, e.g. 4 images will result in 50% noise of the single image.</p>

 

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<p>FAIW, I find that the 12mm end is too long for anything useful.</p>

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<p>? ? ? That's the short end of the lens.</p>

<p>The 24-105 is by far the better optics even with IS switched off: Wide open the 24-105 delivers a much sharper image than the 28-105. So this is not just an IS vs. non-IS thing.</p>

<p>There is no such thing as digital lenses. Lenses always work analog.</p>

<p>I used isopropanol and Q-tips for cleaning. Both is very cheap so that you can do lots of tests on a filter before going to the sensor.<br>

The problem with cleaning liquids is that the dirt dissolves in the liquid and is left behind where the last of the liquid evaporates. Therefore, the idea is to work quite wet, so that a larger percentage of the total liquid used stays on the Q-tip so that a larger percentage of the dirt dissolved in the liquid is removed when lifting of the Q-tip off the sensor in one of the corners of the sensor.</p>

<p>Considering the big spec differences of the 600 (weight: 3920g vs 5360g), there may be even room to see them sell side by side for quite a while.</p>

<p>As far as I remember some test the 600D (3Ti?) has the most advanced <strong>video</strong> support comparing the 600D/60D/7D. So if you want to have the camera for <strong>video</strong> then chosing the 7D is not the best option.</p>

<p>Regarding image quality the difference seems to be marginal:<br>

http://www.thedigitalpicture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=355&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=2&API=0&LensComp=398&CameraComp=474&SampleComp=0&FLIComp=3&APIComp=1</p>

 

<p>What seems to have been missed in this discussion: Some Canon L lenses are only weather sealed when used with a filter.</p>

<p>This is a 16GB Class 10 SDHC memory card. I have checked it using a test program that fills the card and checks whether all data was written correctly. Due to this and the fact that it flawlessly stored about 1900 jpegs on it (which is about 12GB of data) I doubt the broken card theory.</p>

<p>In once case it showed the long lasting access even after waking up from sleep mode. In this case there was no image to be stored. Therefore, I think it does not have anything to do with storing images. Maybe it does some indexing of the images? Or is there some garbage collection active that erases some unused flash blocks to make them available to store new data?</p>

 

<p>I doubt that there is something wrong with the card: It is new, it has never produced errors so far and it even passed the test of some checking program for memory cards.</p>

<p>Using my new 60D I occasionally observed long lasting access to the memory card. The red access light is active for an extended period of time (longer than 30s) even though only single images had been shot. During this time the camera operates just as normal. Nonetheless I wonder what the camera does. Does anyone know what is going on?</p>

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<p>They don't do this just to be mean or to trick you into buying a more expensive lens or camera.</p>

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<p>No, they do not enable AF to not be held liable for bad AF performance.</p>

<p>Which color spaces are you using? sRGB? AdobeRGB? Maybe you were shooting using AdobeRGB but your remaining setup was set to using sRGB and not treating color spaces correctly. In this case you would see dull colors. So make sure that your whole workflow / tools handle color spaces correctly and make sure that your monitor is calibrated to it.<br>

If you are unsure what to do, the next best thing is to switch your camera to sRGB. This is the default used by most applications and closest to what most monitors will display. If things get better, then you have found the source of your color problems and can work on it.</p>

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<p>The lesson, I suppose, is that if you're going to shoot the sun, use an older body</p>

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<p>With exposures below 1 second I think that before it damages your sensor, it damages your eye (unless using live view).</p>

<p>Judge by yourself:<br>

http://www.thedigitalpicture.com/Reviews/ISO-12233-Sample-Crops.aspx?Lens=121&Camera=453&Sample=0&FLI=0&API=0&LensComp=115&CameraComp=0&FLIComp=0&APIComp=0</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I doubt that I will have a chance to test one of the grips before buying. Therefore, I will have to find out the exact dimensions of the grip to get an impression of it. I also had a 50E (the film body) with a grip and liked this combination. Do you know how it compares in size with the 60D + grip?</p>

<p>Hello!<br>

I have recently picked up a 60D. I always used my 350D with a battery grip and, therefore, I am thinking about getting a battery grip for the 60D, too. Since the Canon one is quite expensive, I am also considering third party ones. Therefore, my question: What is your experience with third party battery grips? Are they "good enough" to get the work done or is there a real reason to spend more than twice the money and get the Canon one?</p>

 

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<p>So if you don't need the fast autofocus of the 7D I would give serious thought to the 60D.</p>

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<p>I will have a look at the 60D.</p>

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<p>You do realize that the anti-dust systems in the new cameras does not mean 100% guaranteed dust-free, right? You can still have something stuck on the sensor and have to clean it manually.</p>

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<p>Yes, that's right. But if you have got a second body, you can switch to that and delay the cleaning to when you are at home.</p>

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<p>What problem(s) are you looking to solve by buying a new camera body?</p>

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<p>Last time I was on holidays I gathered some big piece of dust on the sensor and was not able to remove it in the hotel limiting shooting to f/5.6 or wider. This time I am going on a cruise and want to have a second body in case something like this happens again.</p>