matthias_meixner2

<p>That might have been caused by concentrated sunlight. Did you mount a lens-cap when not in use? If not, this might have happened when the camery was laying about and not during shooting.</p>

<p>The 24-104 f/4 L is a great lens. However, on your APS-C body it is not that wide. This is true for all lenses that start at 24mm or longer. So if you need to cover the wide angle, then you can either combine it with an ultrawide lens such as the EF-S 10-22, or look at a lens starting with a shorter focal length.</p>

<p>While the flange distance does not allow using FD lenses on Canon SLR bodies using adaptors without optical elements, it should be possible to create pure mechanical adaptors for mirrorless bodies. But even then, it would only be worth for "expensive" FD lenses.</p>

Consider the weight and size. Even the worst lens in your backpack is better than the best lens that you left at home due to size/weight.

<p>Why do you care? If it takes great photos why worry?</p>

<p>So the question is: Which lens is capable of delivering the required resolution?</p>

Remove the lens and the SD-card and see if the battery still drains. If you have luck the

problem lies outside the camera.

What about ImageBrowser Ex? This is the successor of both ZoomBrowser and ImageBrowser.

<p>Better than rinsing it with distilled water would be to use some alcohol since that absorbs remaining water and dries much more quickly than water. So drying the camera would be dramatically sped up which reduces the time water can damage the camera. However, you will have to find some alcohol that does not damage the plastic used for making the camera. Ethanol or isopropyl alcohol might be candidates, they are commonly used for cleaning the sensor. But before applying them to the whole camera research the web whether someone else already did this.<br>

<br />I know that this process has successfully been applied to mobile phones that have been dropped into water. So maybe it would also work for cameras.</p>

<p>There is a custom function that enables noise reduction. Just after taking the image the camera takes another image using the same parameters, just with the shutter closed. This image now only contains sensor noise. This is substracted from the image to reduce noise. See here for more details: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark-frame_subtraction</p>

<p>I have only shot one wedding so far (I am no professional). Most shots were done using a 60D + 24-105L IS. A 70-200 would have been too long. Also consider that you have only one body. Changing lenses takes time and has the risk of losing some shots. Therefore, reducing lens changing by selecting a lens with the most versatile range is a good idea.<br>

<br />I prefer shooting without flash since using flash changes the atmosphere of the scene. For this high ISO and IS is required.<br>

<br />The 70D would give you not only higher ISO but also a better viewfinder.</p>

<p>It could be the case that the process of reading the analog pixel value itself induces some noise to the other pixels. That would mean that the 5Ds has more noise at the same ISO setting than the 7D despite of the same pixel size.<br>

I guess we have to wait to answer this question until someone actually compares the noise level of 5Ds and 7D using real image data.</p>

 

<p>There is another solution: If the object is not too fragile just throw it up or drop it and shoot it while in flight.</p>

 

<p>Have you checked the internal sharpening settings? Probably they were different.</p>

<blockquote>

<p>And maybe, the best lens for that African Safari where you can take only one big lens...</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Maybe. But most of us would have to decide: Either go for the safari <strong>or</strong> buy the lens.</p>

<p>I can confirm that on my 60D switching to manual cleaning removed a stuck pixel. It looks like the camera updates its internal bad pixel map in this case.</p>

Yes, of course. I used it for several years (on another Computer).

<p>Hi!<br>

<br />VueScan does work (I have only the demo right now). However, I liked the Silverfast plugin for Photoshop and I wanted to continue using it. That did not work. So it seems I have to go the VueScan way.</p>

<p>OK, I have tried to install WindowsXP (32 bit) next to Windows 7. It looks like the software does not like my new hardware: While XP and the drivers install OK NikonScan hangs when trying to detect the scanner. Using the demo version of VueScan the scanner is working, i.e. the hardware and SCSI drivers are OK.</p>

<p>Hello!</p>

<p>I have a new PC running Windows 7 64 Bit. Since there are no new drivers for the Nikon Coolscan III I tried to use VMWare or VirtualBox to run WindowsXP and install the scanner plus drivers there. This is how far I got:<br>

- I have a Dawicontrol DC2975U SCSI card for which there are drivers for Win7 available<br>

- The Scanner is passed on to the virtual machine using SCSI passtrhough<br>

- The scanner is detected by WindowsXP and the driver is installed (inside the virtual machine)<br>

- Nikon Scan 3.1.2 sees the scanner and tries to scan, the scanner starts scanning but NikonScan is already finished before the scanner has finished its operation. And instead of an image just some garbage is displayed on screen and the log says "Keine Scanobjekte (no objects to scan)"</p>

<p>Now this is where I am stuck. I have already tried different ASPI drivers without success. I have tried both VMWare Player on Windows and Virtualbox on Linux. Both show exactly the same behaviour.<br>

So does any one have an idea what is wrong? Has anyone got the scanner software working inside a virtual machine?<br>

- Matthias</p>

<blockquote>

<p>There is no glass in the extension so the IQ is not compromised.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Since the lens is operated outside the range it was designed for, IQ does suffer (or else you would just use longer extension tubes). Still it may be high enough to be reasonable.</p>

<p>Simply put: No.</p>

<p>You are a good photographer if you can take your existing equipment to the limit.</p>

<p>Switching to full frame you would have to replace the EFS 18-55mm and EFS 55-250mm anyways. Therefore, I would suggest to start with upgrading the lenses.</p>

<p>A wrong AF sensor calibration would result in focus problems with all lenses and not just a very selected set of lenses.</p>

<p>Just an idea: The elements in the lens do not stop moving immediately. Now if the camera thinks that things are in focus it tells the lens to stop focusing and triggers the shutter. Now if the lens elements continue moving slightly between the AF stop and taking the picture, the picture will be slightly out of focus. Microadusting would help in this case if AF always moves the lens elements in the same direction before stopping AF. It would anticipate the movement of the lens elements that happen just after the camera has sent the command to stop AF.</p>