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david_weiss2

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Posts posted by david_weiss2

    Kodak Chevron

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    I always wanted one too but fairly rare. How did you come by it? Very reminscent of the Medalist and Signet 35 styling which I have. Your leather fitted case looks nearly new. I would think it would be worth getting clean if the fogging is a problem. Please let us see some sample photos when you get a chance.

    Need recommendations for CMC repair guy

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Ken,</p>

    <p>I have been using Dave Easterwood at Daves Camera Shop in Chelsea Michigan - he got some very needy cameras back in shape for me (at a good price) and he is very friendly. (Last year, I sent him a Contessa, Retina and Argus C44 and just recently sent him a Vitessa and Hi-Matic). <br>

    <br />Check out his webpage:<br>

    https://www.davescamera.net/home.html</p>

    <p>BTW, just a satisfied customer. </p>

    <p>Dave</p>

    Classic Manual Film Cameras Film Friday #14

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Thanks for your nice comment, m.c. I don't know if it shows in the photo, but my dad was very content when we found this window. He kept saying, "This is wonderful, this is wonderful." He was referring to the warmth on his face. He is smiling just a bit here.<br>

    Can our elders teach us something? You bet. If only he could teach me how to post full-size photos to this site from flikr.<br>

    Dave</p>

    Retina 1a

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Cory,</p>

    <p>I have several 1a's and never really used them much as they have fogged viewfinders. So last month I decided to get one cleaned and use it. I had it cleaned by Dave Easterwood (recommended in a post on rff) and boy did he do a nice job. The viewfinder and lens (Xenar f3.5 )are super clean and it seems like it is brand new. Quite reasonable and no shipping charges to New Zealand. Anyhow, I have a roll of film in it now and am anxious to finish it off to see what it can do. The Xenar f2.8 has a larger filter size than the Xenar f3.5 - not sure why it was necessary to make the glass bigger for the f2.8. <br>

    <br />While I agree with your comments about its lack of features and the quality of the lens, I do not agree about the viewfinder. I have heard this before from others about how squinty it is, but I think people just use it wrong. I hope this doesn't sound trivial, but what I do is just relax my eyes and use it at the natural distance my eye falls from the viewfinder. That is, I don't try to twist my head towards the viewfinder, I just keep my face parallel to the body of the camera (pivot point being my nose which is touching the camera). I keep both eyes open and the image appears in the middle of my vision, like one of those tv screens where you can view what is on another channel in a mini window? No squinting, no neck injuries - just a nice view of what I want a picture of. On other cameras, I do try to get my eye up close, but not on this one. I think of it as a different system. I have no idea if that is how it is to be used but it works for me. I used a microscope in the past quite a bit and I know that closing your other eye (at least for me) is not a good idea. </p>

    <p>Really liked the shot of the doorway and the horse and carriage. </p>

    <p>Dave</p>

    <p> </p>

    Asahi Pentax K2...Anyone have any experience with one?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p><a title="Search DuckDuckGo" 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    Asahi Pentax K2...Anyone have any experience with one?

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>I agree with Ron that the KX and the K2 are both fine cameras. I have two of each. But the K2 as you say is a bit more full featured. Wasn't the K2 the flagship a the time?<br>

    <br /> For those who do not have both - he KX is a bit more basic - like a k1000 with depth of field preview, mirror lock up, a self timer and you can see the aperture in the viewfinder. The metering system is a bit different from the k1000 (the K1000 is actually similar to the KM in this regard). The K2 differs from the KX as it has a metal vertical shutter v a horizontal rubberized silk, x synch of 125 v 60, automatic shutter settings, speed dial goes to 8 seconds verses only 1 second for the KX and several other smaller differences. The iso setting ring on the K2 is the only feature I do not like. On the K2 I pulled out just now, it is working fine. They just seem to get stiff. It took me awhile to learn to just push in the black tab and move the silver ring with the silver ring grips, not the black ring grips! And the K2 doesn't have that aperture viewer in the viewfinder. Strange they didn't include that. <br /> <br />All things considered, I like using them both. The size and weight are just right for my hands. You got quite a good deal for a really good camera. I hope you post some images.</p>

    Mamiya C330 Shutter Problem

    in Medium Format

    Posted

    <p>Jonathan,</p>

    <p>I believe your camera is operating correctly. I have the C330 Pro and the C330S. The following are instructions for the C330S:<br /> <br /> As we look at the camera from the front, with multi/single switch on "single", the shutter lock on the left side unlocked and the lens remove lock on the right side switched to "lock"<br /> <br /> 1. Open the back to reset the counter and close<br /> 2. Use the film advance until the counter stops you at film frame "1" (the metal bit in the semi-circular groove would move back and forth and cock the shutter on the lens if a lens is attached)<br /> 3. Push the shutter button near the bottom of the camera or the side shutter button - this will cause the short metal "arm" that is attached perpendicularly to the thin metal slide on the left of the camera to trip the shutter on a lens - the metal bit in the semi-circular groove does not move when the shutter button is depressed. (I think your confusion is that on a lens, the shutter cocking mechanism is on the right of the lens and the shutter tripping lever is on the left of the lens)<br /> 4. Advance the film, the metal bit in the semi-circular groove moves again and the shutter is cocked again.</p>

    <p>With the older C330 Pro, multi/single switch needs to be on "multi" and the film counter will stay on "0" but otherwise it is the same.</p>

    <p>So I believe your camera is okay if I understand what you said correctly.</p>

    <p>Dave</p>

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    Voigtlander Bergheil - A small one

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Cliff,</p>

    <p>Those links were great - a lot of good information. In retrospect, it all seems so obvious, but it wasn't until I saw it done in print. I am still not sure about why I would develop paper in a film developer but will give it a shot. I am going to give the paper a shot first then the film later this week perhaps. </p>

    <p>I must say, this has been an interesting experience already and I fully recommend this to anyone who likes to breath life into older cameras. I am actually excited to give it a whirl as you say.</p>

    <p>Dave</p>

     

    Voigtlander Bergheil - A small one

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Cliff,</p>

    <p>Just a question - I made 6 of the aluminum inserts and painted them today so I am ready to load my individual holders. Any hints about cutting the film (got the corner trick from one of your other posts). I haven't developed sheet film - I am envisioning continuous agitation in a small tray - do you have any recommendations for film/developer combos for doing this? </p>

    <p>I bet ortho film would be a good idea at some point!</p>

    <p>The shutter could probably use a cleaning but I cannot get the rear element off. It seems like it should be easy enough (it has a ring around it that looks like it is meant to be easily removed) but I have not mastered it yet. If I trip the shutter right after cocking it, I get times pretty close to the correct ones (except for 1/2 and 1 second which are about 1 1/2 stops off). If I wait say 30 seconds, most of the previously good times become much slower, about a stop.</p>

    <p>Dave</p>

    Voigtlander Bergheil - A small one

    in Classic Manual Film Cameras

    Posted

    <p>Cliff,</p>

    <p>I think those pictures are wonderful! I am surprised the edges are so smooth - did you crop a bit? I am lucky that I do have the yellow filter and will be using it. That was another piece that I received - it has flexible metal bands that allow it to attach to the front of the lens. I will post when it all works out. So far, I have bought the metal backing but have not yet cut it. I hope to do that and the next day or two. </p>

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