mervyn_wilmington

<p>I bought an XE2, and still have it as a back-up. I wear glasses and I thought the viewfinder very poor. I bought an XT1: wonderful! I sold all my Nikon equipment (apart from a few 'classics') and have no regrets.</p>

<p>I think Fixation say that they are authorised Nikon repairers. However, elsewhere in the text they appear to be saying that they do minor repairs to a number of professional Nikon cameras. If that is right, has MPB sent the body to an appropriate repairer?</p>

<p>Edward - if you think that you can demand a repair, regardless of cost, think again. I think the maximum obligation on MPB is to offer you another model of similar value - and which you are happy with - or refund your purchase money. I've never dealt with MPB, but I've no reason to believe that they are underhand.</p>

<p>If you are trying to do this without a tripod or support you are already in potential difficulty. The slightest movement of the camera can throw out what you think on the screen is 'square. I do this sort of thing sometimes, including the monitor screen. I usually shoot around eight sequential shots for each picture while trying to keep the camera steady. Quite often I will get at least one ok.<br> Have you tried doing this at different zoom lengths if you are not using a prime, or, if you are, a different prime? If zoom, have you tried setting the camera to macro?</p> <p> </p>

<p>Even though it is now an 'old' camera, a D300 should be a joy for you. I've sold most of my Nikon equipment - gone to Fuji X - but have kept a D300. Compared with the D100, you would be entering another world.</p> <p>There are many more 'modern' Nikons, but the feel of the D300, combined with very decent performance, gives me pleasure.</p>

<p>May I respectfully suggest that anyone who spends big lumps of money on repairing old bodies, just to take photographs, wants his brains examining. However, if a particular camera of itself gives pleasure because of its looks, 'feel' or operation, that might be a different matter.</p> <p>I have a small 'representative' collection of Nikons. Three Fs, F2, F4, F501, D300, D1x, etc. They all work, but I wouldn't spend money on getting them repaired. It rarely makes economic sense. The D1x illustrates the point. It is near mint, and I bought it from a dealer very cheap because it did not work. Even working, it would not have fetched much, and the dealer could not invest the time and money. The battery appeared to be working at the correct voltage and holding a charge. However, after a number of tests, I established it wasn't. A new battery - special to the model - cured the problem.</p> <p>Within parameters, it provides very good images. It looks and feels impressive, but weighs a ton. Would I use it generally? Certainly not.</p> <p>In any event, I've changed over to Fuji X. In feel, looks and handling, XT1 is as near to my F2 as any camera I have used. The lenses have the feel that Nikkors did years ago. The image quality is superb. Would I want to pay for the repair of old Nikon dslrs that would be inferior in performance terms? I certainly wouldn't!</p>

<p>May I suggest you think a little more broadly. After using 'big' Nikons for 30 years, I sold mine recently, including a D700. I bought a Fuji XT1. No regrets at all. More compact and lighter. The quality is stunning. I used the 35mm f1.4 at a christening a couple of weeks back. I couldn't fault the results. I've just bought the 14mm f2.8. The image quality is exceptional. You read the reviews, but assume much is hype, but it isn't. </p> <p>Take a little more time before deciding where you go.</p>

<p>A couple of years ago, I switched from big Nikons to Fuji X. For the last year I have been using an XT1. I use LR 5.7. </p> <p>Mainly I'm happy with jpgs, but last weekend it was our granddaughter's christening. I had the 35mm f1.4 on the XT1 with Nissin flash. I shot raw + fine. Some shots were taken in very difficult lighting conditions - a dark church of Norman origins. Post-processing raw produced very good images. Jpgs were not so good when compared. There were no suggestions of green or other casts in either.</p> <p>Very satisfied with the results. I never managed better images when using Nikons.</p>

<p>After 30 years of humping big Nikons around, I switched to Fuji X. I have the XT1 and XE2, plus the 18-55, 55-200, 35 f1.4, and 56 f1.2. No regrets at all. I also have the Nissin gun. It is good.</p> <p>The XE2 viewfinder is not too good if your wear glasses - I do. The XT1 is very good.</p> <p>Image quality with all lenses is first class. I could have paid four times as much for Nikon bodies and lenses. Would they have been better performers? Technically yes. In practice, I doubt it, at least for my use.</p> <p>How a camera 'feels' has nothing to do with the quality of images it produces, but it is bonus to enjoy handling the XT1. It reminds me of Nikons such as the F2.</p>

<p>Just so that I am clear, are you saying that with the lens off the camera you can (1) move the aperture ring from the largest to smallest aperture without problem, and (2) that the pin on the body will move from left to right (and vice versa) with full travel without problem, but when you put the two together, there is the problem?</p>

<p>Beg, steal or borrow at least one handheld meter that is known to be reliable - <em>and learn how to use it.</em> You need to know what a reading should be. That is the starting point.</p>

<p>John,</p> <p>I wasn't trying to knock your advice. It was more a note of caution. Many people do know what it is. Whether they appreciate the subtlety of use is another matter. Certainly, when I unfortunately used it on the Periflex many, many years ago, it was being portrayed as a wonder lubricant, used in the space industry and fit for anything.</p>

<p>I don't want to go off topic! I've used WD 40 for many, many years. I buy it 5 litres at a time. It is very useful - with care.</p> <p>As for stickiness, a couple of month ago, a car door lock seised. I 'injected' a good deal of WD 40 into it. Much ran down the door outside. I was unwell at the time and couldn't be bothered cleaning that off. It was cleaned off last week. The residue needed some effort...</p>

<p>I agree with Charles. WD 40 can be very useful, but it does, eventually, leave a sticky residue. The 'finer' the mechanism it is used on, the more likely it will cause problems. I know to my cost. Many years ago, I used it on an unusual British camera, a Periflex. The shutter mechanism includes a shaft on which a bearing runs. After a few months, that became sticky, preventing movement.</p>

<p>Thanks for that Pete. The camera is working fine with a 1gb card. A 2gb one has now arrived, but I haven't tried that.</p> <p>I was able to get a battery here in the UK for £14. They seem readily available. The D1X has gone into my small collection/display of classic/representative Nikons. They are on the top of the piano! It shares glory with three Fs, an F2; F501, F4, D300. I will add another two or three models.</p> <p>It won't get a great deal of use (I mainly use Fuji X nowadays), but I prefer the ones in the collection to work.</p>

<p>Thanks for that Andreas. In a sense I can do that by simply printing pages from a PDF of the full manual. The quick and short guides provided with some cameras achieve that sort of result a bit more effectively.</p>

<p>Thanks for the advice, etc, especially to Dieter for the repairs link. I'm not sure I am brave enough nowadays! Or steady enough for that matter. I first repaired a shutter (leaf, much easier) in 1959. I had to fashion small screwdrivers from darning needles over a gas flame and work and file them into the necessary shape!</p>

<p>Thanks for that Robert. I've just bought a new battery (£14). They seem plentiful and feedback suggests they are better than the original Nikons.</p>

<p>Good advice RJ. However, when I tell you I have just updated my phone from a Nokia 3210 to a 3310! It doesn't do such things</p> <p> </p>

<p>Thanks for the comments.</p> <p>I am a silly-billy. I actually have a Bowens shutter speed tester. I've used that this afternoon.</p> <p>Speeds 1/30th and faster are fairly accurate. All the slower speeds are about 1/25th. I had assumed all the speeds had gone crazy because the slower speeds had been working properly before.</p> <p>Does this say anything to those who know rather more than I do!?</p>

<p>I'm now using my newly acquired D1x. I don't have the instruction book. I could download and print, but there are 236 pages, around 90% of which I would not need.</p> <p>I wondered whether there had been a short or quick guide for this model. I can't find one online. Does any member know if there is one, please?</p>

<p>I'm quite sure this is not a battery/electrical fault. The F is entirely mechanical so far as shutter and speeds are concerned.</p>

<p>My early Nikon F has a fault. Regardless of the chosen speed, the camera operates at the same speed. I've taken off the photomic head, and set the speeds 'directly' but it makes no difference. Is it a known fault?</p> <p>Before I decide to send it to a repairer, any ideas please?</p>

<p>1 GB card now in: camera working! It really is near mint, and looks fine.</p> <p>Thanks to everyone.</p>

<p>An update.</p> <p>A new battery arrived this morning. However, the shutter still would not fire, but focus was quicker. I have a 2gb card on order. Should be here in next day or so.</p> <p>However, having read a passing comment, I checked to see how the camera was set-up. Lo and behold, it was not to fire without a card! I've changed that and the shutter now blazes away. I now have reasonable expectation that I will be in business when I get the card - well, I hope so.</p>