thomas_fiege

<p>Got this bug with my Nikon D80 with 50/1.8 on a Kenko 2x macro teleconverter. I m realy pleased with this combo. Its working well for my needs. The only draw back is that I have to do all manual.</p>

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<p>Hi, I was also locking for the Sigma 120-400 and had the chance to try it at my local store. I didn't like it as it was too havy for my taste. the sellsman showed me the tokina 80-400 wich is much lighter. It is just under 1Kg and I found it easyer to hold than the Sigma. That already gave me the study plus. It doesent have a VR system but I think it is good handheld in normal day light. If you are locking at this lens get the secound version. (the one without internal motor and with tripod mount)</p>

<p>Hi guis,<br /> <br /> Hopefully you lot had a good X-mas and maybe got a new lens under the tree. <br /> <br /> So here is my question. I'm looking for an ultrawide zoom and the new Tamron 10-24 does have the best range. I know there are other lenses around like the Sigma and Tokina but I think they are both a compromise in the focalrange. As the Tamron is out for a month now I hope someone might provide some sample shots with 100% crop from the corner and the center. <br /> <br /> If you know of a link with a good comparison I would like to read it to.<br /> <br /> Thanks a lot Thomas</p>

hi Rene,

 

Over all you have made some realy nice pics.

 

First of all did you use a pol. filter? I think that the polfilter also can help when there is no sky in the picture. But with sky it can make the difference.

 

The first 6 pics are the best as there is somthing going on in the picture. You have some guiding lines going from the corners to 1/3 and 2/3 of the other side. That maks the picture interesting for the viewer and guides him trough the picture.

 

the 7th picture is a bit dull (sorry) but there is a fixpoint missing. The eye is searching for a point of interest. The bridge is to low at the botton and the hill is yust a plane backgrount without strukture. Same for the pics 9, 15 and 20.

 

I do realy like the two closeups from the leafs. The red leafs are a bit to much in the middle but the other one realy work. I would have made the fokus more on the right leafs but that is also good.

 

The other pictures are nice but there is missing the speacial kind. I cant say what is missing. They are ok but ....maybe some one else can answer what is missing.

 

If you have a bit time to read some stuff

 

http://www.photozone.de/rule-of-the-thirds

 

and the following are going to give you some idea how to get good landscape pictures. Hope I was not to harsh with my comments ;-) Go out you are on a gode way. For me it is as difficult to get goo pics even I knew what is missing sometimes ther is yust not the right POI in the pic

 

Have a nice week

 

Thomas<div></div>

I also own the Tamron 17-50/2.8 ist is a realy nice lens. It have replaced my 18-135 nikon. I was also looking at the sigma 18-50/2.8 but it is much bigger and does not use the same filter size.

 

The Tamron rear lens cap is a bit smaler than the nikons and does not fit to all lenses but it doesent require to use at the red dot. it is as easy to use as a nikon one if it fits to the lens.

I will just post the Best value!

 

Sigma 10-20, Sigma 18-50 f2,8, Sigma 50-150 f2,8, Sigma 150-500 f5-6,3 OS all lenses are HSM so all will work on

an D40 ore D60 so that will be a cheap setup from 10-500mm with good light and portrait lens in the middle!

 

That will be my setup if I have get the money together :-)

I'm allowed too use flash and have the SB600. My main lens is the 18-135mm. I will be the only Photograf in the

church as my Brother dont want to have to many people running arround.

I can not bounce the flash from the ceiling as it is a wood ceiling. So with frontal flash it might be to harsh.

I need a faster zoom for the wedding of my brother. The Nikon 18-55 f2.8 is out of price range, so the two possible

anwers are Sigma or Tamron.

 

I do have the D80 so I can fokus with both lenses. How is the noise of the screw in relation to the Sigma HSM?

 

Is the focusing speed of the Sigma better then the Tamron?

 

Is the Tamron worth the extra 1mm on the wide end?

 

I think that picture quality might be equal more CA with the Tamron but a little bit better in corner sharpness.

I also have the 50/1.8 and the 24/2.4 so that will do for low light but the possibility of zooming will give me more

freedom.

 

Thanks for your help

Thomas

hi Robert,

I don t think that you would be happy with the 70-200/f2.8. You already have the also realy good 80-200f2.8 so you would only gane the VR. Is that worth it???? also how will you get to the 400mm of the 80-400? with an 2x converter? Bad idea. You already have a nice set of lenses wich are all good in there lenght. If you would like to get something new have a look in the Sigma 100-300/f4 that lens got realy good marks and also exeptable with an 1.4x converter have a look at

 

http://www.photozone.de/Reviews/Nikkor%20/%20Nikon%20Lens%20Tests/369-sigma-af-100-300mm-f4-nikon

 

that might be better then to get a lens you already own.....

if you have some time, sigma is going to bring out a 150-500mm soon. That one might also be a good choice.

to give my two cents also....

 

So if the tollerance is +- 0.02 mm tay will have also calculated the lenses that you will have with 46.52 mm an infinity fokus otherwise they would have made a tollerence like -0.02 mm

as for the battary you might clean the electrical contacts in the battery compartment. it is possible that caused your low battery problem.

there is a nice telephotolens but you have to go the sigma way. The sigma 50-150mm f2.8 is a nice telephotolens which is small fast and realy good as you can see in this post <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=00Oh5Q" >Sigma 50-150/2.8 APO HSM version II</a>

Hi Kerry, I have used matrix metering with my D80 18-135 kit with Polarizing filter and I found it a bit unreliable. Now I have learnd how to use spot metering and I like it more. Also I think that there is no difference in exposure reliability if you are using a pol filter

Hi Gary

 

nice to hear that you got a new toy. Would be nice if you could provide a picture of straight lines at 16mm. Have someone seen a test on the net yet?

came acrosse this news <a href="http://www.tamron.com/news/35mm/

1024_pma08.asp" >Tamron 10-24mm</a> and I think that this lens is very interesting.

I was locking to buy a super whide lense in the near future and liked the extra reach

of the sigma. Now I am looking forward to see some test of the Tamron. I always

disliked that the sigma ends at 20mm. Has enyone seen a test of this lens jet ore

can provite further information ore know how much the lens will cost? <br>

Thomas

I also think as you have the SB 600 and the D300 it looks like that the flash in the pikture is not attached to the camera. place the flash next so the subject (out off your frame) and fire remot with the internal flash set too --. the other steps are already mentioned

<a href="http://www.sigma-photo.co.jp/english/support/faq/condaitr.htm " >Tele Converter matching list</a>

 

Try the link the sigma should work fine

hi daniel

 

I have looked at the dell page and the widescrren monitor all have a resulution of 1680 x 1050. so have a look if you are running yours with the wrong setting. it must be in the higest setting to get sharp pictures on the screen.

hi I do have the same lens and if I use the internal flash I have to remove the hood at 18mm. If I use sb600 no problem at all. The internal flash is just a "quick and dirty" solution which is not always satisfying me.

hi rene

 

I can not answer to all questions but to some.

 

1. just read in the manual page 132 and it says that the camera cant detect an lens. So try out to clean the contacts on the TC, Lens and Camera. If it still show F flasching send it back it is malfunction.

 

2. yes you are lousing one stop. thats why it is so dark... but the camera just read the setting from the lens it doesnt know that you have a TC between. you can make a quick test. set the camera to manual and shoot wide open with and without the TC with the same setting. you will see a lose of 1 stop.

 

3. may by the aperture setting ring is bend ore something else wrong I dont know. should work just fine I have an kenko N-AF 2x one an sigma 70-210 and works just fine in all settings.

 

4. try out what it reads without the TC schould be the same.

 

5. shure you can place it in front of the macro. if you like it there is no word aggainst using it there to. I use my TC one the nikon 50f1.8 give ma a nice 100mm lens.

 

hope that helped.

 

happy new year to all here at the forum still 12 hrs to go

 

Thomas

hi nick

 

I do have one of the first 70-210 f2.8 sigma lens. It is not that sharp at 2.8 but for me it is ok. the later are better. also it have some yellow in the pics. but I think that is no problem to correct with seting the WB manually.

the sb-400 can be tilted upward it is in the specs from nikon USA "Bounce capabilities in 4 steps up to 90 degrees". The tilt feature and the extra power is the point you might want to have indoor. The SB-600 is nearly as large as the SB-800

it depends on the light sorce as the connection is IR. There can be a problem in strong sunnlight already at a distence of 15 feet. Indore there should be no problem with ambient light. I have tested with my SB600 in the living room and D80 In my bedroom around two corners and it still worked without direct light conection.

also you should have an UV filter for protecting your lens front glas. I have an HOYA one it was not to expensive. it works ok. I also have an Polarizer also from HOYA. don t mount both at the same time to the lens. it will not show in the viewfinder but you will have some black corners in picture at the short end.