toan_nguyen2

You should also consider the Zonemaster II from RH Designs in

England. Their exposure meter is incredible! Go to their website at

www.rhdesigns.co.uk Since I have the Zonemaster, I do not need to do

band test most of the time. By the way, I do not work for them...

Hi Mark,

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I got through the same dilemma as you did when I bought my M6 0.72

TTL 8 months ago. My first lense was the 35mm f/1.4 Summilux Asph

which I bought with the body. After a while, even if the 35mm is

great with a M6, I discovered that I needed to isolate my subjects

more so I ordered a 50mm. I chose the Summicron instead of the

Summilux because in low light I prefer to bring the 35mm to get more

latitude of exposure, just in case... A month later I could not

resist to buy the 90mm f/2 Summicron APO Asph for landscape and

portraits, even if it is a bit too sharp sometimes for people with

less perfect skin. But to bypass this problem I use grainy films like

Tri-X. To me, the combo 35/50/90 is perfect for my kind of pictures!

<p>

Good luck!

I am using a SCSI Minolta ScanSpeed which can do 2800 dpi and is

quite adequate for 8x10. The Minolta software was not very good, so

right now I am using the scanner with Vuescan form Hamrick Software.

The only drawback is the Dmax which is not high enough compared to

the new Nikon Coolscan 4000.

Focusing with the M6 in low light is usually easier that a SLR but

not when you have the only light of the room in front of you and

beside your subject. There is a large amount of flare which is very

annoying...

I got a old MacBeth 904 from ebay and it cost me $152 with the

shipping. The thing is old (20 years), has lost a little bit of

accuracy but it works for Zone System. I did not want to pay more

than that for better accuracy.