kferris575

Raymond,

 

I was there in 1998 with a photographer/friend named Mark Hardgrave. After we returned, Mark put a website together to provide photographers with some helpful info regarding photographing at McNeil. I do not recall the web address, but it should come up if you do a google search on "mark hardgrave mcneil river". I know there is a link to his site on the website I share with him (www.ozarkimages.com). Go to the "Links" section and look for a link to Mark's McNeil River site.

 

I was also there in 2003 and I sent Mark a summary of some of the things that changed since we were there in 1998. I believe he did update his McNeil site to reflect these changes.

 

Congrats on hitting the lottery. You will have a great experience.

 

Kevin Ferris

www.ozarkimages.com

Get out in the field as often as possible and watch what some others do while out shooting. Some of the best "little secrets" I picked up were things I observed others doing, or what they disclosed to me while we were in the field together.

The items listed above are all very useful. I also carry a few wooden clothspins to help hold stuff in place (or to hold distracting items out of the frame).

Part of the reason for the resurgence of incident light meters may be due to the poor quality of (or lack of confidence in) some of the meters in digital cameras.

 

I have a lot of confidence in the meters in my film cameras (mostly EOS 3 bodies), but I will almost always use an incident meter when I use my digital camera (Canon 10D). I generally use partial area or spot metering and the 10D is a bit harder to isolate the subject in the metering area. This may be due to the 1.6x crop factor.

Learn how to use "Layers" in Photoshop.

Most 300mm F2.8 lenses can take a small filter inserted into the rear end of the lens. In limited cases, you may be able to insert a small split filter into this area. The problem is that most split filters are designed to rotate so they are thicker than those that don't rotate (similar to polarizing filters). They may be too thick to fit into the slot at the rear of the 300mm lens.

Dan,

 

Someone who uses a digital SLR for underwater photography once pointed out that he was basically limted when shooting film to 36 exposures. If he wanted more, he would then have to surface, change film, recheck the seals on the water proof housing, etc. However, he could put a very large flash card or micro drive in the digital camera, and take many more pictures.

 

I had never though about this because I don't do underwater stuff.

 

Kevin

Manuel,

 

Since I am not familiar with the Gitzo 1378M head, I cannot answer your question directly. However, I think there is something you should consider. The sidekick is intended to allow for fluid movement with a fairly heavy camera/lens combination. In addition, it is most likely to be used when photographing very active animals or birds. You may also add a flash and flash bracket to the setup. Any ballhead you use, should be solid enough to handle this weight along with the abuse you will be putting it through.

 

I hope this helps.

Kevin

Jemini,

 

I have found the IS feature to be the best advance in optics in many years. In my manual focus days, I had been using a 500mm f4.5 lens. When photographing nature, I was often in low light, trying to photograph at 1/60th of a second. The smallest vibrations from wind, camera shake, etc., could make the image soft. The IS feautre increases the number of "keepers" significantly because it minimizes some of the vibration problems with long lenses. The photographer must still have good "long lens technique", but the IS feature will help.

 

I generally have the IS feature on even when on a tripod. I will turn it off for moving subjects. It is also very useful when photographing from a car with a bean bag, or when lying in the prone position on the ground.

 

I hope this helps.

 

Kevin Ferris

First prioity - good Tripod/head combo

 

Second prioity - cameras/lenses

Charlie,

 

If the lightning is close and really lighting up the sky, then you want to stop down a little. However, if it is at a distance and the sky still looks dark, even during a strike, then you would need to open up a bit.

 

Kevin Ferris

The 500mm if your after birds. If you were after other types of wildlife (large mamals, etc.), the 200-400mm may be a better choice.

 

Hope this helps.

Kevin Ferris

Jeff,

 

I use Canon, not Pentax, but I would assume some of the things I have found would be similar.

 

The Canon 70-200 F2.8 is very sharp. It is still pretty sharp at the 200mm range. However, I have never liked the results with a converter at any focal length.

 

I also use a 300mm, F2.8. This is one of the sharpest lenses I have used and I get excellent results with the 300mm and a 1.4x or a 2x.

 

I would guess that something similar would be true with the 200mm F2.8 when combined with a teleconterter.

 

To summarize, the 70-200mm F2.8 lenses are sharp, but not very good when combined with a teleconverter. If you are going to combine the lens with a converter, then you may be better off with a 200mm prime lense (however, you will be giving up the flexibility of the zoom).

 

I hope this helps.

Kevin Ferris

Ken,

 

Even though you cannot use flash on the bears, I would still bring the flash for some other subjects. There are a lot of spruce grouse in the forest as you walk the trail to the falls. In addition, there are often other subjects like mergansers along the shore of the lake.

 

Kevin

Louis,

 

The place you are thinking of may be Hallo Bay (or Halo Bay).

 

It is in the same vicinity as Katmai & McNeil River, but it is privatley owned. Similar to Katmai, people go to the lodge for fishing and bear viewing.

 

Charles Glatzer runs photo tours up there. His company is called Shoot the Light and he may have some info on his website. (his website maybe called www.shootthelight.com).

 

There are some other areas on Kodiak and Admiralty Islands that are popular bear viewing spots. There are also areas on the coast of Katmai. There is another area that is much lesser known. Someone was killed there a couple of years ago and it got some press then, but I don't remeber the name of the area. However, I don't think is was a "short" ride from Anchorage, in fact I think it may be closer to Juneau.

 

Good luck

Kevin Ferris

Jemini,

 

It would be very helpful if you could try out each type. Try renting one before you buy it (or borrow one from someone you know). The differences between the two types would be noticible very soon.

 

The advantage of a ball head is the ability to easily move the camera about and instantly lock it into position. I wrote a basic summary of the differences between pan & tilt heads, ball heads & gimbal type heads on my website (www.ozarkimages.com). Go to the Hints & Tips section and look at the page on Tripods.

 

Good luck.

 

Kevin Ferris

Jason,

 

I suspect part of the increase in the proportion of digital images for critique, is the fact that they can be posted on the web without delay (no need to scan).

 

Kevin Ferris

Charlie,

 

I heard a rumor that Nikon is working on a body that incorporates IS. If this is true, hold onto your Nikon gear. Problem is, it's a rumor and there may be no truth to it. If I were you, with that extensive a Nikon setup, I would make sure the rumor was false before considering any change.

 

Also, since Nikon has begun to release some IS (or VR) lenses, I would wait to see what additional lenses will be incorporating the new VR feature. It's alot less expensive to pick up one or two lenses, then to convert an entire system.

 

Some pros did convert, but they had some economic reasons for doing so. They also had extensive lens collections, and they could replace several lenses with one or two high quality zooms. They could make the shift from Nikon to Canon without incurring the expense of replacing every lens in their inventory (see Joe McDonald's story on his www.hoothollow.com website).

 

Kevin Ferris

Claus,

 

I have the Canon 180mm Macro and I think it is a great lens for insects. I am not familiar with the Sigma lens.

 

The 180mm provides very good working distance for insects. Some samples can be scene at my website: www.ozarkimages.com

 

Go to the "What's New" section, and look at the article on "Good Field Technique". The frogs face, the dragonfly and the spider were all photographed with that lens.

 

The only drawback to that lens is the size. I often travel and hike about with several lenses including a 500mm F4, and the size and weight becomes important. I am considering getting the 100mm macro for times when I travel like this.

 

The 100mm macro is great for flowers, and it is also good for insects. You just have to move very slow, and be very careful with the tripod, because you don't have the working distance of the 180mm lens.

 

Another thing to consider is that the new Canon ringlight (the one with two lights that can be moved and detached) is really designed for the 100mm macro. The guide number is best suited for that lens and it attaches without a problem. To attach that ringlight to the 180mm you need an adapter (similar to a step down ring) and the guide number may not produce the light you need due to the light fall off at the extra distance (it will depend on what you are photographing and how far away you are).

 

Good luck

Kevin Ferris

www.ozarkimages.com

Jeff,

 

I have the 500mm F4 IS lens and I use it often from the car with a bean bag. The IS feature allows me to get some very sharp images. I still have to be careful to use good technique when shooting. I typically use 100 speed film. As the light level drops you may need to shift to faster film. Also, when the wind kicks up you can have some problems because the wind will affect the lens due to the large lens hood sticking out of your car.

 

You will need to upgrade your tripod. I have a Bogen 3021 and it is not enough tripod for that lens. I have to use something larger when I use my 500mm.

 

The Wimberly is nice but it is not very versatile. It's great with long lenses. However, when you go out into the field, a good ball head like the Arca B1 or the Foba Super ball will make it easier to shift between long telephotos and wide angles or macro. Your Kirk ball head may also do in these situations. (I have experience with the Arca and the Foba, but not the Kirk).

 

Good luck.

 

Kevin Ferris

Keven,

 

You may want to look at the Hakuba carbon fiber tripods. They are about $260 (US) and they come with an additional short center column for getting close to the ground. They are about the same size as the Bogen 3021. However, they are a little lighter because the Bogen is made of aluminum. They are about $100 more then the Bogen, but a lot less than the comparable carbon fiber Bogens & Gitzos.

 

I have one of the Hakubas, as well as an aluminum Bogen and Gitzo. I use the Hakuba when I need to go light. It's a pretty nice tripod. However, I feel the Bogen & Giztos are a little better as far as build quality. The Bogen & Gitzos will probably take a little more punishment.

 

Good luck

Kevin Ferris

You may want to look into a Hakuba carbon fiber tripod. They are about $260 (US). They come with two center columns (long & short) and the setup with the long center column may be large enough for you. I have used this tripod when I need a light tripod for travel and it is pretty nice. It's not quite as well made as its Gizto & Bogen counterparts, but it is alot less expensive.

 

This tripod could not handle some of the larger camera/lens combinations like a 500mm or 600mm F4, etc. However, it can handle something as large as a 300mm F2.8 with a camera and motor drive (this combo is close to its maximum capacity).

 

If you are using something smaller, it can work for you.

 

I would recommend that you add a quality ball head. It will make using the tripod a lot easier.

 

Good luck

Kevin Ferris

Henry,

 

I would wait for the Nikon version to come out, or switch to Canon. The IS feature is one of the best advancements in lenses in a while. It is very usefull when photographing in lower light (as is the case with most nature work). In addition, it really helps with teleconverters. If you can get a chance (rent a lens for a day or so, or go into the field with someone who has an IS lens), it may help you make your choice.

 

Kevin

Mark,

 

Make sure you can get a lens plate that will mount on a Wimberly (or any other Arca Swiss type mount).

 

Kevin Ferris

Joel,

 

You might want to consider extension tubes for some close up photography. They are relatively inexpensive (compared to a macro lens), and will allow for some close up work by reducing the minimun focusing distance of your lenses. This could also work well with some of the suggestions above. My website (www.ozarkimages.com) has a summary of the uses for extension tubes in the "Hints & Tips" section.

 

Good luck

Kevin