maddoc

<p>I just recently (two weeks ago) got into LF and received a Technika IV from a friend for a good price (I think). The serial number of that camera is 66092 and I am curious about when it was possibly made.</p>

<p>I recently got a 5cm Elmar "red-scale", tiny and very well performing. Only problem is that it can not be fully collapsed into the M4-P (no problem with the M7, though)<br>

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/120386173.jpg" alt="" /><br>

(Neopan Superpresto 1600PR scanned as color-negative)</p>

 

<p>Just found this thread, interesting comparison. I too own the 35mm Summilux-M pre-ASPH (one of the very late German made) and agree about the atmosphere it can create or its character. The minimum focus distance of 1m is sometimes a true disadvantage but nevertheless I still like this lens for BW work.</p>

<p>I have managed now to scan one frame, taken with ACROS100 (Leica M7, 90mm Summicron-M with UVa filter, ~f/5.6) and developed in Rodinal (1:50). The settings for the scans were 4800dpi and 6400dpi (V700) and 4000dpi (Coolscan 4000ED), saved as 16bit grey JPG. Sharpening OFF and greypoints set identical in Vuescan (used for both scanners). Since I have uploaded the files in original size to my pBase account (~ 11MB !) here are only the links:<br>

Coolscan LS4000ED, 1 pass<br>

http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/112572792<br>

Coolscan LS4000ED, 16 passes<br>

http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/112572793<br>

Epson V700 (GT-X900 in Japan), 1 pass, 4800dpi<br>

http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/112572794<br>

Epson V700, 1 pass, 6400dpi:<br>

http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/112572796</p>

 

<p>Mauro and Roger, tomorrow I will scan a photo taken on Acros100 (rated at 80ISO and developed in Rodinal 1:50) with both, my Epson V700 and Nikon Coolscan 4000LS and upload the unsharpened (only white, grey, and blackpoint set) files to my pBase account in original size. Then I will provide a link here at this thread.</p>

<p>I have both, a Epson V700 and a Coolscan LS4000ED (which I just purchased recently). Because I was really interested seeing the differences in quality, I have scanned a roll of Neopan Superpresto 1600PR (Leica CL + 40mm M-Rokkor CLE and<br>

developed in Diafine 3 + 3 and rated at ISO1600) twice, once with the Epson V700 (using the Epson software, set to "medium sharpening" within the Epson software, scanned at 4800dpi / 16 bit grey) and with the Coolscan (using Vscan, 4x multisampling, 4000dpi, 16 bit grey sharpened in PS Elements using USM). Both samples were downsampled to 800 dpi. (Epson 4800dpi -> 800dpi, Coolscan 4000dpi -> 800dpi):<br>

Epson V700<br>

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/112395522.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Nikon Coolscan 4000ED:<br>

<img src="http://www.pbase.com/gsamj/image/112395525/large.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p>Prices have gone down a bit... Noctilux lenses sell for ~ $3300 now (three on eBay) and I have seen a 35mm Summilux ASPH being sold for $1800 elsewhere.</p>

Rob, thank you for your kind words and the detailed analysis of the photo. Now, how to express it properly what I wanted to show ? Let me say it this way, I totally agree with you about the 35 Summilux ASPH being the best 35mm (in M-mount) lens around, there is nothing else in the same class but ... still the older pre-ASPH version is capable of delivering some nice results.

 

The pre-ASPH has shortcomings, as you have pointed out and I would put in the same category as the Noctilux (which I have and like). It is center-sharp, wide-open, with some - as I see it - pleasing OOF rendering and when stopped down to f/2.8 or more can rival the 35 Summicron pre-ASPH. At f/2.0 the 35mm Summicron IV is superior.

 

What makes me keeping the pre-ASPH 35 Summilux is its unique character at f/1.4, a little bit of the "Leica-glow".

 

My photo was taken at f/1.4 and 1/30s, self-developed and scanned using an Epson V700 with 4000 dpi, stored as jpg and then down-sampled in PS Elements for web-use (800 dpi).

Taken with the "low-contrast, not overly sharp" pre-ASPH 35 Summilux at f/1.4 and 1/30s:<div></div>

I also would recommend the 35mm Summicron IV ("King of Bokeh" for its very pleasing out-of-focus rendering) or the actual 35 Summicron ASPH (sharper wide open). Summicron lenses have a maximum aperture of f/2.0 which should be sufficient for street photography until dusk. If you want to extend into the night, a 35mm Summilux ASPH would be my choice but that lens is a) much larger compared to the Summicrons and b) very expensive.

My MP developed a similar problem like shown in your photos (In my case a vertical dark stripe on the right side of the frame, when using 1/1000s or 1/500s) and I sent it to Leica Japan (Ginza) for repair under warranty (camera was 2 years old). Leica replaced the shutter and also electronics (batteries drained in record-time)....

I second Popflash and the Rangefinder Forum. I got my M6TTL from Popflash, very good experience.

Noctilux 50/1.0. Second for me is the latest pre-ASPH 50mm Summilux. Third the Elmar-M 50/2.8 (current version). I never really liked the older 50mm Summicrons (I had and sold the the Rigid I and Rigid II, still have the DR).

I have these cheap version magnifiers (both, a 0.85x de-magnifier and a 1.25x magnifier) and all I can say is that they are ... well cheap. The quality is OK (they are made in Japan but sold via a company in HK) but one gets some kind of "tunnel-vision". Reading the shutter-times of my Hexar RF was impossible using the 1.25x and viewing the LED's of my 0.85x M6TTL was impossible using the 0.85x. Additionally, they dim the VF and since they stick out about one cm from the back-side of the camera, the neck-strap easily entangles itself.

I wear glasses and the 35mm FL are hardly visible using the 0.85x VF, as are the 28mm FL using the 0.72x VF. If your main lens will be a 35mm and your are not planning to use the 50/1.0 as your standard lens, I would recommend the 0.72x VF (that is a M6 classic). If you really like WA lenses, the 0.58x has advantages but Leicas with this VF magnification are difficult to find (used). In this case a Konica Hexar RF is a good (and cheaper) option (.. and the Konica Hexar has a much better VF than the ZI).

I first bought a Rollei (35E) and now added a Ricohflex VII. Very small and light, simple mechanics and a amzing sharp Anastigmat lens (80/3.5). Bought it for ~ 90 $ ...

1500 bucks and natural light, low-light conditions ... My first choice would be the Summilux 35mm pre-ASPH. I have this combo (M4-P with the Summilux 35 pre-ASPH) and got some nice results with it. The Summilux at f/1.4 is a tad soft but photos have some nice "glow" ...

 

A lens of similar character but a lot cheaper would be the Cosina-Voigtlander 35/1.4. This lens in single-coated version is ideal for BW work and has better control of flare compared with the Summilux pre-ASPH (both have nearly the same size, BTW).

Leica M4-P. Not sought-after by collectors (Made in Canada) but very reliable for somebody who wants to take photos with his Leica. I would not recommend any older Leica (M2, M3, M4) for the same reason. They are nice to look at but often require service (CLA) or repair, which adds some money to the price. If you like the results of your CF T* lenses, I would recommend Zeiss lenses for m-mount (Biogon 35/2.0 and Planar 50/2.0 or Sonar 50/1.5)

Looks like that it needs a CLA urgently and as my camera repairman has told me, the M4 shutter curtains can easily shear off, when the lubricants of the advance mechanism got dry.

I would recommend (and also use) the Gossen Digisix Lightmeter. It is very small, exact and can measure incident light (with an integrated mini-dome) and reflected light. I use this meter with my M4-P, Rolleiflex, and Hasselblad. The meter readings form the Gossen are quite exact the same as compared to my M6TTL, BTW.

I just bought one (again) two weeks ago. Came with original box, manual, warranty card, strap and cap, (recently CLA) from private seller. I payed 900 $ for it, optical it is 9.5 out of 10. I also got a Leica meter MR4 in mint condition (from a different seller) with case and box for 250$.

Foto Gregor in Koeln (at the Neumarkt) is very good. Quite high prices but is was the only shop out of four in Koeln, who had an Series VII UVa filter in stock...

I use a (black) Canon 35/2 in LTM mount. Works very well on my M4-P and is a nice little lens.

My M3 and M4-P (also IIIf, Similar kit as Anthony Oresteen !) occasionally get some service and lots of film, so a clear NO. I had an Epson RD-1s before but sold it. Digital is maybe convenient for color film (no waiting for the lab) but B&W ... Tri-X in D-76 (or XTOL) is still the best ...

"The lens depends on the subject. For travel a 21, 35, and 50 seems to be a nice compact kit. The 21 for landscapes and tight spaces. The 35 for general walking around street shots. The 50 for portraits and details.

 

Never used the Spotmeter V. The Gossen DigiSix is a compact meter to fine tune the Sunny 16 rule."

 

I use exactly this kit, 21, 35, 50 for travel and a Gossen Digisix. Fits nicely in a small bag (together with the M4-P)