dave_f2

<p>Thank you Kelly for the reality check and Dan for the encouragement!<br /> Kelly, I thought about press cameras also, but I want a camera I could grow into instead of one that I'll grow out of. And getting a new Shenhao or Tachihara is just plain beautiful to look at. You are right though, I haven't really thought about lenses, because I don't have a good concept of LF lenses. I know that 90mm on 4x5 is roughly 20mm on 135. I find that 20mm is sometimes too wide on 135, objects feel too far away when shooting with a especially with the distortion. But at the same time, LF doesn't really work as 135 does, right? Is there severe wide angle distortion shooting in LF?</p>

<p>Long story short, what kind of lens would you guys recommend starting out with?</p>

<p>I'm currently contemplating between the Shenhao TZ45-II (not sure about IIA or IIB yet) vs Tachihara 45GF.</p>

<p>Here are the differences that usually come up in forums:<br /> 1. <strong>Aesthetitcs</strong> - Tachihara are often said to be eye catching with redwood and brass fixtures. This has nothing to do with the performance of the camera, but people often complain about the unwanted attention it draws. Shen Hao's are black or chrome. But now there is a chrome Tachihara too, so this is really a moot point.</p>

<p>2. <strong>Weight</strong> - This is apparently a dealbreaker issue for some people. Tachihara is about 2 pounds lighter than the Shen Hao. Some people say this makes a lot of difference in a field camera. Other say with the lens attached, there isn't much difference. Again, this doesn't directly affect usability, but I imagine it could make a difference on long hikes.</p>

<p>3. <strong>Movement</strong> - This is where I start to get lost. From what I read, Shen Hao has more movements, but Tachihara users downplay the importance of these movements as either not often used or can be compensated for using other movements. Of course, to someone like me, it seems like it's better to have more movements and to not use them than to need movements that are not there.</p>

<p>4. <strong>Bellows</strong> - Again this is something I am not well experienced in. This apparently affects the type of lens that can used. This is also a critical distinction between the Shen Hao TZ45-I and TZ45-II. I could really use some input from Shen Hao users on this issue.</p>

<p>5. <strong>Back</strong> - Shen Hao has a Graflock back while Tachihara has a spring back. Graflock evidently means it can take roll film. How often do people use roll film on 4x5? Does that mean the whole roll needs to be processed together? Can the Fuji PA-45 film holder for FP-100B<strong>45</strong> (thanks Dan) fit on both cameras? This is important to me because I am living abroad and without a dark room. I would like to get a feel for the camera first or else I'd have to wait until I'm back in the States to process any pictures.</p>

<p>I'd like to learn everyone's experiences in regards to each aspect. Thanks again.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thank you all for taking time to impart your personal experience. I appreciate it very much. I actually didn't buy Adams' Book1 because I didn't think there would be much to learn when I was starting out in 135, I'll be sure to complete the trilogy.</p>

<p>Thank you for mentioning the retailers that still sell Tachihara...I'll definitely will be looking into it. I also like the suggestions of the press cameras. I'll be doing more research on those cameras as well. Thanks again for the replies!</p>

<p>I would like to get into large format (4x5) photography doing mostly landscapes. I'm pretty experienced in 135 and medium format, but large format is really a whole different ball game. I've tried to find some definitive guides on getting into the format, but most resources a little bit dated. For example, after reading Ken Rockwell's guide, I had my heart set on a Tachihara, only to find they were no longer in production.<br>

To start out I just want to get a feel for the camera, so I will shoot on Fuji Instant Film. So the question is what do I look for in a camera? I know the movement is important. Is there a difference between single rail and double rail cameras? Camera bodies also limit my lens selection right?<br>

I'd be interested in some experience from other members in terms of equipment, since this is really an expensive niche, but I would like to keep costs down if possible. What current manufacturers can anyone suggest. What about buying used? What should I look for in a old camera (or what old camera should I look for?<br>

Thanks in advance for all your help. It feels like I'm starting at square one again with photography, but it sure is exciting!</p>

<p>I gotta say after a couple days of research, I think the best camera for my criteria is the Panasonic LX3. It has native RAW and has a 24mm lens, whereas the S90 only has a 28. The prices are exactly the same (from Amazon anyway). Anyone have any input on this?</p>

<p>Bill,<br>

To elaborate on your response, are there Canon P&S cameras that are <em>more</em> compatible with CHDK than others? That is to say, can they out a RAW-type file that is directly supported by Adobe? Or can they at least be easily converted using the RAW to DNG program supplied by Adobe? The S90 seems like a great camera, but the lens is not wide enough for my taste (only 28mm)</p>

<p>David</p>

<p>What's the best combination for RAW on a P&S? The best Canon candidate I found is the SD980 which has a 24mm lens. However, it is touchscreen and I worry about usability. Also it is not cheap at 300 USD. Any other candidates at this price range with a similar lens?</p>

<p>Can the slr shepherd do time lapse?</p>

<p>What's the best way to slave together numerous cameras (as in a bullet time rig)? It seems like the cameras would need to fed by a central control unit, but does anyone have any idea who makes this nowadays? Thanks in advance.</p>

Kelly,

 

The problem is exactly opposite to what you're describing. I have only been adjusting shutter after advancing film, but once cocked, the shutter indicator now points to a nonsense setting (oftentimes at nothing, the empty space between B and 1000 or B and 1/30). This is because as the film is advanced the shutter indicator does not come full circle to where it originated, but the original starting shutter speed (set from a previous film advanced position) is what the camera actually fires at. For example if the dial is at B before advancing film, after advancing, it may point to the empty space between B and 1/30 after advancing but will fire at B. Someone has suggested that I just reset the dial by loosening the screw, something that I might do if I get the camera CLA-ed.

Thank you all for your detailed contributions. I just realized my clarification of the problem is probably causing some confusion. What I meant to say is that AS you cock the shutter, the speed speed indicator will turn, but not a full 360 degrees back to its original position. Thus I have to guesstimate what shutter speed I am selecting based on the relative original position. I think Kelly touched on this in her first post, that all Zorkis do this. Did I understand that correctly?

let me clarify the problem. Essentially, after cocking, the shutter speed select doesn't rotate a full 360 degrees back to its original position so it is difficult to ascertain what shutter speed is actually selected.

Let me start out with a disclaimer. I've never used rangefinder, the closest I've come is a Nikonos III (which is a

viewfinder). So I really don't know how rangefinders are SUPPOSED to work, so I'm having a bit of trouble figuring

out how this one works.

 

I am tinkering around with a Zorki-4. Everything seems to be in good practical order except I am having a bit of

trouble figuring out the shutter dial. I am told Zorki-4 needs to be cocked before I set shutter speed, but once I cock

the shutter, the shutter speed indicator moves out of place so I can't point it to the speed I want directly. Can

anyone point out what I am doing wrong? The indicator seems to be pointing at the current speed when the shutter

is not cocked.

 

Also, what is under the shutter speed setting? I have a dial with an arrow then number increasing by 5 from 0 to 25.

Is this the flash delay setting?

Well Ian you're clearly an expert. When I started out on my task, I didn't even know there was a lever under the

rewind knob! I thought for sure I had to go the piggy bank route and break open the camera. Just a tip to anyone

else stuck in this situation. Ian's idea works quick and GREAT. The only thing I did differently was I bent a bobby

pin into a hook shape instead of an L shape. This way it was easier for pull up since (something about physics).

Thanks again Ian!

I've run into an issue that I believe is common in FE2s. The film rewind knob has come off, which normally is an

easy repair, however the knob has fallen off while the film back was closed. Which means I can no longer lift the

knob to open the film back which I have to do to retrieve the mechanism that opens the film door! If any experts are

familiar with this problem I would like to hear their input. Thank you!

Even using the lifters is a bad idea as there is only one nut in the center of the camera thus when you use lifters you are putting a lot pressure onto the sides. Best practice is to lift from the inside after you've taken off the lens.

Yeah I was thinking along the same lines, Joe, but unfortunately the slowest time I have now is 1:36! I think the dial would have to make two rounds for that. I'm really not sharp on Nikon service and unfortunately professional camera stores that can service these cameras are extremely rare. Anyone know of a good one near San Jose, California?

 

One store I took it to said it is likely a circuit board issue, but it seems like the first thing to do would be to set the timing? Any ideas?

I just bought an old Nikon FE for my brother. I noticed the shutter speeds are out of whack, but consistently

so. 8 second exposure clocks in at 1:30, while 4 seconds is :30, 2 seconds is :13 and 1 second :06. I thought

it might be a battery issue but even with fresh batteries, same problem. Is this a common occurrence or should

just go to a camera shop to have the shutter speeds tested and set?

 

Dave

in regards to the digital back to camera interface, i would actually prefer to have all manual controls. i guess the photography i do doesn't really require quick reflexes or high speed burst shooting.

If Nikon made a 35mm digital back at the price of a midmarket DSLR would you buy it?

 

Personally I haven't made the jump to digital yet and I'm still shooting with my

FE2. It would be great if I could make the jump with my FE2...I think I'm too

used to the way it handles.

 

Anyone else?

thanks for the lightning fast replies guys. i'm actually in beijing and aside from the wukesong camera market i'm actually very interested in places that offer some of these esoteric services

Is there a way to take a cleaned up digital negative and output back to film? I

had a negative that was damaged which I then scanned and composited in photoshop

but I would like to enlarge on emulsion paper instead of printing. Is there a

way to do this?

I came across an old Nikon FE that is in good condition except sometimes it

fires when the film is being advanced. Does anyone know what could be causing this?

 

 

David

I've recently snagged a vintage Great Wall DF2 from a collector in Beijing. It

came with a set of 6x4.5 and 135 adapters. It has the original film spools

which also include a backing paper for 135 film that also counts frames through

the little window.

 

 

Since this camera (and everything included with it) is around 30 years old, I

don't want to bother with using the original film counter paper as I would

likely just end up damaging and having to find another way to count frame. My

question is what is the best way to duplicate the current paper or perhaps there

is another way to count frames (a la lomo turn counting?).

 

 

Right now the only thing I've thought of is cutting down the backing paper from

a roll of 120 and tracing over where the frames should be. Anyone have any

other ideas?

i just downloaded a chinese instruction manual for gw df 2 to 5

 

if i am reading this correctly, if you hold the camera as if to take a picture, there is a shutter release cable slot above your right hand towards the front of the camera. since i'm still researching to buy a df2, i can't tell you definitively how to attach the cable or if there is indeed a slot.

 

this is just the information i have for now.

 

let me know how the df3 works out for you

for anyone doing df2 research (like me): in response to angelo's loading issue, the problem is with the film cartridge. another poster in another thread said fuji easyload film slides right into the camera.