peter_eavis

<p>The water does taste great in NYC -- far better than London, where it tastes like an over-chlorinated swimming pool.<br>

I use the tap water all the time to develop, but I do run it through a faucet-filter to remove any sediment that might come from the pipes and tanks in the apartment building I am in.<br>

Even after I filter, I notice some traces of something slight on the surface, but it doesn't seem to effect development or image quality.<br>

One thing I do find hard is getting water to come out of the faucet at exacting 68 degrees, so I end up mixing up large jugs of water at that temperature.</p>

<p>Ilford 50 is gorgeous. Looks super in Rodinal. Deep blacks, bright-yet-nonharsh whites and a delicate tonal range.</p>

I've had results I like with Microphen.

Anyone want to post a link to the photo that started all this?

 

I believe that's legal.

Also, it is true that the pre-Asph lenses have more character than the Asph, but like I said, at f/2 it gets a bit hit-and-miss with the pre-Asphs.

 

The Summarons are amazing lenses, and I was out shooting this morning with one on my M2, but in the subway at f/3.5 (wide open) I had to take the shutter speed down to 1/15th (with the summicron, I could get away with 1/60th in the same light).

 

Most of these photos are taken with Summicron Asph. 35mm

 

Definitely go with the 35mm Summicron Asph. It may break the bank now but you're going to end up buying it anyway, as everyone ultimately does.

 

It is great in color and in B&W. Its ability to resolve detail is legendary and unmatched. It has more "character" than the Summilux Asph.

 

The problem with the pre-Asph lenses is that light conditions have to be good to average to render things well at f/2. With the Asph, f/2 handles all light conditions.

 

Like others say, it's also reasonably small.

 

Photovillage sells stuff that's in good condition but there's no bargains there.

Jeff, Lex and Alexander -- thanks! Your responses are invaluable. Thanks for taking

the time to post.

-- Peter

Hi,

 

I have used Microphen for HP5 rated 1600 ASA in an UNdiluted stock solution and

liked the results.

 

But I was wondering what results people have gotten when pushing HP5 to 1600

in Microphen diluted to 1+1? How did that look?

 

And, just as important, how long did you leave the film in the 1+1 Microphen?

 

Please do not refer me to the Massive Development Chart -- there is no time given

there for HP5 rated 1600 for 1+1 Microphen.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Best,

Peter

It is an exquisite lens and well worth the expense of repair.

Robert -- thanks a lot.

<p>

That's really helpful to know.

<p>

Best, Peter

Thanks, Robert.

<p>

Let me clarify my question.

<p>

I am asking whether there are different development times for <b>120 film</b>, compared with 35mm film. Often, <b>120 film</b> has longer development time -- I am asking whether this is also the case with Rollei R3. There is nothing in the spec sheets --which I have already consulted -- that says the <b>120</b> times are different. They may be the same, for all I know.

<p>

However, the reason I am posting here is to get feedback from anyone who has used Rollei R3 <b>120 size</b> and may be able to say whether they kept the film in the developer for longer.

<p>

MANY THANKS!

Thanks a lot, guys. I stopped by B&H on the way home last night and got the smaller Metz. I'll let you know how it all works out.

Best,

Peter

Thanks, Rui -- a lot. I checked both sources before posting and couldn't find any specific, separate times for 120 film. I didn't, however, check the RHS bottle, which I will do when I get home tonight.

Best,

Peter

OK, thanks a lot, Eric and Ken...

Ok, thanks. That helps.

Thanks, Huub. Is the X-contact the socket under the hotshoe? Can you provide links -- B&H? -- to the exact product I'd need? Thanks for your time!

Eric,

Thanks so much. That really helps. So the M2 would just push some sort of charge through the hotshoe to operate the flash? I wouldn't need to use one of the sockets below the hotshoe on the back of the M2, then?

Thanks again,

Peter

In other words, what other cables or other gear would I need to buy to get it fungible with an M2?

Thanks, Eric.

 

Now, how would I get either of those units to work with an M2? Anyone?

 

Best,

Peter

Hi,

 

I have just bought some Rollei R3 120 film and I can't find any times for

developing this film in Rollei High Speed developer. In fact, the only times I

can find are for HC-110, ID-11 and PC-TEA, none of which I have.

 

So, anyone have development times for Rollei R3 120 for any of the following

developers:

 

Rollei High Speed

D76

Rodinal

 

Thanks,

Peter

Hi All,

 

I have a Leica flash but it's way too strong for shooting at a party and it

doesn't adjust upwards. Can anyone please let me know what model flash would

work well with both an M6 (TTL) and with an M2. Obviously, I am asking for

models that can still be bought new.

 

Many thanks,

Peter

Do what Cartier Bresson did at these types of events and shoot interesting crowd shots with a 50mm or a 35mm. If it's in early evening, and the light's good, you cld get some amazing shots.

Thanks, Bill, for the explanation. I can see how that's doable but you would need pretty strong light to shoot at 1/125th or faster. I may give it a try!

I guess he distance-focused a 50mm -- that's easy with a 28mm, but not a 50mm. Hat's off to him. Where is that from? Some museum?

Thanks, Robert. I prefer the Tri-X but the R3 looks good, too.