scott_mills

<p>Thanks guys, I agree. It was just that a few of the parents (friends) that we asked said they'd rather not have to use an access code, however I can make it easy for them. This all started out b/c I've been shooting some of the teams for years for free so that they can be posted on the team's web site. Eventually some of the parents said we should start selling the photos b/c they liked ours better than the ones they see when at the bigger competitions where there is photograher who comes in just for the business and sets up laptops in the lobby and takes orders. The team used to post my photos on their web site (guys been busy lately) and then last competition he posted a link to the "pro" so parents could purchase photos. I'm thinking they might as well buy mine if they're going to pay for them. I used to tell people "Just let me know if you see one you like"<br>

Anyway thanks and any other advise or insight is appreciated.<br>

PS - the team's photo part of the web site (most of the competition photos are mine if you click on the pictures link to the left, the photos link in the middle is one of the other businesses I was telling you about)<br>

http://kedroncheerleading.com/<br>

Pictures part of the team web site --> http://kedroncheerleading.com/Competitions.html</p>

<p>Hi,<br>

Me and my wife are starting a new web based business selling photos from sporting events. We are starting by photographing the events of our local youth association (My daughter cheers and my son plays baseball).<br>

My question is do we need to use access codes that we give the parents or can we just skip that step?<br>

Are there any legal issues?<br>

We'd rather not use the access code, but then again we don't want to piss off any of the parents who might complain that they didn't give permission for their kid to be posted on the web.<br>

Here's what we have set up so far ---> http://photoxpressions.zenfolio.com/<br>

Any other suggestions or thoughts are definitely welcome.</p>

<p>Thanks,<br>

Scott</p>

<p>Thanks everyone, I will look into all of the above.<br>

Nadine, neat idea that may be it!</p>

 

<p>thanks guys,<br>

it's not a pre flash problem and even if I fire the 580 directly at the strobe, it still doesn't work<br>

I'm confused, it worked earlier in the same day?</p>

<p>Lorne,<br>

Thanks, but that's not the problem, I never use 2nd curtain.<br>

Appreciate the input.<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Hi, looking for a little help here,<br>

My Canon Rebel XTi can no longer sync with my Interfit 150 strobes.<br>

Funny thing thing is it could for months and now all of the sudden the strobes fire after my shutter closes, I just don't get it.<br>

Some background info for my set up and how I shoot:<br>

2 Interfit strobes ex150's<br>

Fired by Canon 580 EXII (set at -2 and bounced behind me)<br>

I always fire them this way b/c I don't have a pc on the Rebel :< (and it always worked until now)<br>

How do I know it's a sync problem?<br>

-I took a photo of the strobe, set a full power, ISO 1600, f/4, 1/60s and it was UNDEREXPOSED, no flash on CMOS,<br>

BUT I was nearly blinded by the strobe firing albeit AFTER the shutter had already closed.<br>

I know I should sync w/ a cord or a radio transmitter, BUT this my ghetto method ALWAYS worked in the past.<br>

So, what the heck happened? How do I fix it with the gear I have now?<br>

Thanks<br>

Scott</p>

<p>Hi, I am going to start a part time portrait business (can't quit the day job yet) and I need some advice. I've been a avid amatuer for over 10 years shooting mostly sports, landscapes and informal portraits for my family and friends. My portraits so far are limited to natural light w/ reflector and bounced and fill flash. I do have some basic understanding about lighting but have never used strobes (other than my 580 ex).<br>

My equipment includes a Rebel XTi, 85 f/1.8, 24-105 f/4, 18-50 f/2.8, 70-300, 580ex, 2 tripods and a white/silver round reflector. <br>

My first gig will be my daughter's cheer leading team which includes 4 squads of about 25 girls per squad ages 6-16. I have been shooting all of their competitions for the past 3 years and providing the compition photos for their web site. The coaches and their parents love the photos and I'm pretty sure I can get the job for "Picture Day". <br>

I have a TON of questions, but I'll limit myself to the equipment for now. My budget is real tight but I figure I should be able to make enough of this shoot to pay for the lights but I really can't risk too much $$ right now (tough times) Here's what I'm thinking :<br>

*Flashpoint 320a Portriat Wedding Monolight Kit w/ 2 monolights (150w/s each), stands and umbrellas -->http://www.adorama.com/FP320PWK.html<br>

*Lastolite Background support --> http://www.adorama.com/BG3355.html ($75.00)<br>

*Collapsible Background --> http://www.adorama.com/WE6072ML.html ($115.00)<br>

*Portrait Proffessional Software --> http://www.portraitprofessional.com/ ($79.00)<br>

My main concern with the lighting kit is power. I'm sure they will be fine for the individual portraits, but I'm not so sure about the group photos. In the past the photographer used a single powerful strobe about 12 feet high with just the reflector (no sofot box etc). The indiviual team shots include about 25 girls, but the coaches always want a full group (all teams togehter, 100 girls). I would feel comfortable going up to ISO 400, but I still don't think I would have enough power. Could I use both of my 150 w/s lights side by side to make an effective 300 w/s flash? Would that be enough power? If I use two lights should the by side by side or spread out to avoid light fall off? Could I get away with just one light for the samller team groups?<br>

How do yo feel about umbrellas, I think I would perfer soft boxes or beauty dishes?<br>

Should I touch up the photos? I always touch up photos for my family and friends if there is an acne or yellow teeth problem, but I really don't want to use layers, blur, masks etc for 100 portriats so I was thinking about buying Portrait Proffessional (I tried the trial version and really like it)<br>

Any thoughts on these questions or ANY other tips and ideas would be a great help.<br>

Thanks,<br>

Scott</p>

<p>Thomas, off topic...but, what ever happened to your friend Grant? Is he still posting somewhere?</p>

Thanks Nicholas. Your right about #1, I cropped it and downsized it and compressed it too much, I probably shouldn't have included that one.

Just wanted some opinions on which portrait is the best and what your thoughts are in general. Thanks.

 

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3274/3052188744_b73856be5d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3143/3051349605_09f8338e6d_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3174/3052187278_dd182e5275_b.jpg

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3052/3051348017_f9dd669406_b.jpg

Definitely stay away from those Rebel bodies, like another poster said you can't really learn much with those. Probably best to get a pro grade 1Ds III

Personally I think a shorter lens would be a better investment. The 50 is long enough and is great for head shots on a crop camera (That was the original purpose of the 85 on full frame and 50mm = 80mm on a crop). Now for full body shots the 50 will be awkward and when he eventually gets studio access in his school a shorter lens would be more useful. I'd look at the following 1. 35L, 2. 24-70 3. Sigma 30 4. Canon 28 1.8 5. Sigma 18-50 f/2.8 macro. The best would be the 35L but $$$, I'd go with either Sigma mentioned above.

I'd still take the shot. Everything we do comes with a risk, we do we draw the line? It's different for everyone. Some people draw the line at their front door and never the house, some run into fires instead of out of them, some people jump from airplanes. Me, I'd take the shot, probably not "smart" but neither is jumping out of perfectly fine airplanes. Besides there is a risk/reward situation going one here, everyone calculates these ratios differently.

Is she hot? j/k ;>

Do it for free, she may have the opportunity to help you out someday. If I were her and you gave me a quote I'd just send it out to mpix and I'd also remember that you were petty over a few drops of ink.

buy from B&H (or Adorama) that's all there is to it.

btw, some thug with a 9 ain't hittin you from 50m, he won't even know your there anyway, I doubt he'd hear the shutter at that distance, especially given the circumstances.

I'd take the shot, then call the cops. They won't get there in time if you call them first, but if you take the photos you can help bring the killer to justice. Even if you don't have a long lens, I'm sure the crime lab (or you) has an upsampling program and get sufficient detail.

Great quote Eric, I'll have to use a variations on that some time in the future.

How many times do you hear "Wow, you have a really nice camera"? It bugs me, just a little bit (I can't help it)

when I give a friend or family member a nice print and they compliment my camera. Does this happen to you? Does

it bug you?

It's a great lens, I used it on my Elan 7 (film) and continue to use it on my EOS Rebel XTi, even wide open. It focus fast and accurate and is MUCH better than my original kit lens (35-80 III)

Roselyn, send me an e-mail I am in the same position as you and have several ideas on how to approach this.---

smilsop@comcast.net

Have you ever seen yourself or someone you know in a street photo? I'm not talking about when your out shooting

with someone and they shoot you. I just think it would be neat to be browsing through some street photos and say

"Holycrap, that's me!" or "Hey, I know that person"

Ben - The BG is a little over as I was exposing for the backlit subject. I don't have any other exposures of the same shot.

JDM - It's the Rebel XTi's default settings which always seem fine to me, never got this look before. I shot this one jpg only and do not have a RAW for it. I did do some post on this but it looked the same right out of the camera. The only PS I did on this was a very minor levels adjustment (maybe moved the black slider 1/8 inch if that) and USM at 150%/1.0/2.

I just got this lens a few weeks ago and I really like it. I just thought the BG blur in this photo looked odd,

more like a PS blur . To me it looks like I tried to add the blur post, it looks "fake" to me. What do you

think? Maybe I'm just not used to have big, smooth structures in the BG (usually leaves and such). Here's a

100% crop.<div></div>

I went from an Elan 7 to a rebel Xt then XTi and never looked back, BTW I love the small size of the rebels.