dmu

I have had the bad Bokeh happen to my photos also. I never thought it was the filter until now. I have also had

the double sun, and I knew that was from the filter. I, personally, am trying to get rid of the unsharpness seen

on bright daylight subjects edges. The glare. I have to run some specific tests, but you can see my other

examples here:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Wuud52/BadPhotosFromFilterExamples?authkey=OSBukbjgrbs

Hope this helps.

I have4 had the 50 - 500 for about 9 months and love it. It is very fast and focuses sharper than anything you will get at twice the price for 500. I also shoot my kids soccer games while standing on the sideline. Being able to zoom back to 50 when the kids are close, and then shoot back to 4 or 500 when they kick the ball across the field is too valuable to give up. I would have missed many shots without it.

I just ordered a 1.4 Kenko pro teleconverter. My reason for going with Kenko is that it does not stick out at the end like the Sigma or the Canon. This means that I do not have to lock the lens at 50mm, or risk breaking something. I can also use the Kenko with my 100mm Canon macro.

Here are some shots with the Bigma:

All the way across field:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Cvgunners/GunnersGame2008_04_20/photo#5192630796119573250

Up Closer

http://picasaweb.google.com/Cvgunners/GunnersGame2008_04_20/photo#5192631053817611218

One More

http://picasaweb.google.com/bellasports/StrikersGame2008_05_10/photo#5199887785206372994

Hello All,

I have a Canon 30D (2/3 aspect ratio) camera. I am taking action soccer shots

for parents to purchase. With 8.3 MP to work with, I am wondering what format I

should crop my pictures in to give the best options to the customers buying the

pictures. I was thinking to go with 8x10. With this, people could order 5x7 or

4x6 without losing too much. I am trying to keep the pixels above 1,600 x 2,200

or so. I am able to keep this pixel count up even of the pictures is taken in

landscape mode and I crop it in portrait mode from top to bottom.

Let me know your thoughts on this.

Thanks,

Darrin

One more question. If it is true that RAW data has no color space associated with it, then why does my Canon 30D let me choose Adobe or sRGB? Why does it not just say RAW and let me choose what to use in the Editing tool like Digital Photo Professional or Photoshop? Also, if I am going to use sRGB in my editing tool, is there any benefit to choosing this on the camera menu?

Thanks,

Darrin

Thank you all for the help, I will try this tonight when I get home. I just had just changed the monitor from my original calibration to sRGB to see if it would help. I have switched it back to my calibration now. I use the Canon EOS Utility for my initial conversion. I am using cs2, but I am not yet familiar what ACR is, I am sure I will figure it out.

I was browsing the Real World book in the store last week. That is what got me to line everything up with sRGB. Before, they were mixed and not matched. I will let you know what happens, thanks again.

Darrin

I carefully went through and chose sRGB for my Canon 30D and I went through a

process to choose sRGB in photoshop. I also have it chosen sRGB for my monitor.

Now, when I load RAW files into PS, it says that there is a mis match and that

the working space is sRGB while the embedded file is Adobe RGB. What am I doing

wrong?<div></div>

I took a great shot of an Egret flying over dark water. His back and the top of

his neck and head are overexposed. When I bring the image up in Canon's Digital

Photo Pro, and choose the linear option for fixing the exposure, the whole

picture darkens, and I can see feathers on the back. This means that the detail

is there, just overexposed. How can I fix the egrets back and neck to see those

feathers?