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mario_mab

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Posts posted by mario_mab

  1. Sorry for the unclear posting. Here is as follow:

     

    Hello,

     

    I?m a little puzzled about the process of Polaroid T/55 negatives, and I hope to get some clarification to my doubts in this forum.

    From archives I learned that Heico Perma Wash bath is used for at least one minute to clear the exposed film. Then, for the second step, a hardening bath should be used. My question is: could the hardening bath be constituted by just a solution of diluted Heico Harderen (for the NH-5 rapid fixer) but without the fixer?

     

    I would appreciate any answer.

    Thank you

  2. Hello,

     

    I?m a little puzzled about the process of ﷯Polaroid﷯ T/﷯55﷯ negatives,

    and I hope to get some clarification to my doubts in this forum.

    From archives I learned that ﷯Heico﷯ Perma Wash bath is used for at

    least one minute to clear the exposed film. Then, for the second

    step, a ﷯hardening﷯ bath should be used. My question is: could the ﷯

    hardening﷯ bath be constituted by just a solution of diluted ﷯Heico﷯

    Harderen (for the NH-5 rapid fixer) but without the fixer?

     

    I would appreciate any answer.

    Thank you

  3. Hello,

    I just purchased a used 75mm shift lens. It came without a user

    manual, not that I should need one but I�m puzzled by the usage of

    those two rings on the front lens barrel. They both open-close the

    lens opening. One of them is even step-less. Could you please tell

    me what is the purpose of the second ring as opposed the first?

    I would appreciate if you have some info about it. A link to a web-

    page is welcome.

    Thank you

  4. Hello,

    Does anyone have information about the Silvestri RS 45 (6x9)?

    Though, the Mod. H (6x12...?)looks interesting too.

    Even in their web site there is nothing written about it, besides

    that it is a metric camera, whatever that means.

    I would appreciate any info.

    Thank you.

  5. The Horseman Bino sounds great to me, expensive tough... if it is the

    one that B&H sells as "Horseman Binocular Direct Viewer" is just a

    little less expensive then the reflex one which it sounds too good to

    be true for the field but looks big from the image I saw.

    Very interesting also is the toyo rubberized monocular solution.

    I learned something today that will help me to find a solution to my

    frustrating initialization in LF.

    Thank you all.

     

    <p>

     

    Mario.

  6. Hello,

     

    <p>

     

    I�m new to LF and I�m struggling to get confidence with this new equipment. One of the things that I�m struggling the most is focusing at the GG with the dark cloth. I really dislike this system. It is very uncomfortable, I can�t stay under that cloth for more that just few seconds (especially in hot weather conditions)�not to mention the light spreading from the bottom�and the bellow sagging because of the cloth sitting on it while I�m trying to cover the back standard from the light��It drives me crazy.

     

    <p>

     

    I just bought a Toyo VX125; I know that is one is of the best tools in business�but only if I can concentrate more on the images instead of spending time on the technical difficulties.

     

    <p>

     

    As solution I was thinking to use the Folding Focusing Hood at which attach with Velcro on one or two sides a custom made (small) piece of opaque cloth. In few words I would have a folding focusing hood plus a miniature cloth attached to it with Velcro.

    Is there anyone that has already done it? What is the impression, if any?

    Are there alternatives that I should know?

    I also was thinking at the Toyo Balloon focusing hood. Is it worth the money? Is it too big for outdoor shooting?

    Sorry for my English and for so many questions; just short suggestions will be very much appreciated.

     

    <p>

     

    Thank you.

  7. Hello,

     

    <p>

     

    I'm trying to get info about the "JOBO Sheet Film Tank System" that interests me. Though, I don't intend to use this system with any automated rotary system.

    Do you think that it is possible to use those tanks (2551) by inversion intermittent-agitation as I would with the roll film? Is there a manual processing system that let be agitate at intermittent intervals?

     

    <p>

     

    Thank you.

  8. Paul,

     

    <p>

     

    If I was capable of attaching, lets say, two extensions of 250mm,

    just like you do when you attach the caps, I would keep the

    collapsible VX rail at It�s minimum (at it�s full strength). 500mm or

    600mm of extension rail for me would be more then sufficient.

     

    <p>

     

    Utopist? Maybe...

     

    <p>

     

    Anyway I didn't get any private e-mail about this matter. But I hope

    to get one from Mr. Steve Grimes, to which I wrote before.

     

    <p>

     

    Thank you.

  9. Hi,

     

    <p>

     

    I know that this question will sound really banal to most of you and I'm sorry (but please understand, I'm really new to large format equipment):

     

    <p>

     

    I got my first LF lens (symmar s-mc 210mm), which is in a copal 1 shutter. When I set the f-stop there is no intermediary clicks as I�m used to other format lenses, it has to be positioned manually and visually at the desired settings without the help of the click-stops.

    But what about precision? Is it supposed to be like that or is it defective?

     

    <p>

     

    Thank you.

  10. Hello,

     

    <p>

     

    Because of the absence of ready-quickload b&w negative on the market I have intension to try Polaroid 55 p/n negative. But there is something that I don't understand: is it possible to expose Polaroid 55 p/n outdoor and develop them home later in the day? I don't think I would carry a bucket of sodium sulfite clearing bath with me outdoor. How does it work?

     

    <p>

     

    Any help and suggestions are very welcome.

    Thank you.

  11. That's interesting! I would have thought that for an �extension� a

    form of a cone would have been less awkward then a cylinder.

    I assume that even using a lens on the recessed lens board reversed

    would extend somewhat the distance lens-film without the tilt-

    limiting factor, and may be effective too with the VX125 (hopefully).

     

    <p>

     

    Thanks for your help.

  12. Hello,

     

    <p>

     

    I�m new in LF field and I�m in the process of buying my first LF camera. The camera I intend to buy is the Toyo VX125, which accepts lenses from 55mm to 300mm. But, what about if an extension cone is used to increase the distance lens-film plane? Do �Extension Cones� exist?

    If yes, is there a disadvantage using them?

     

    <p>

     

    Thank you.

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