richard_wick

<p>Sorry, find someplace else...good luck</p>

<p>Thanks, guys...some good information here. I am thinking that the culprit is in insufficient washing..I think I will continue to wash in distilled...2 gallons instead on one..and let it soak for a while both in the wash and in the photoflo. It does not seem to be a dust problem because the specks are hard..kind of calcified...like hard water would leave, but, nothing but distilled has touched my film. I wonder if I got a bad bottle of distilled....unlikely, but, I suppose, possible.</p>

<p>Actually, I did use photo-flo as the last step...the distilled h20 is dirt cheap here..comes in plastic jugs for about a half a buck a gallon..this water was a few months old. The specks seem sort of calcified, so I am guessing it is the photoflo...I do get a little sloppy when mixing it..sort of guessing how much to use..maybe I'll get some fresh photoflo, pay more attention to the concentration, and wash a bit more carefully. I don't use a squeegie or anything else to touch the wet film..I have been drying it in the same shower stall I have used for years. But, I am getting old and am losing a significant number of marbles...so , that may have something to do with it!</p>

<p>Last night, I processed a roll of 35mm Ilford Delta 400 in HC110 Dilution B..Kodak stop bath and Ilford Rapid fixer..1:3 for 3 minutes. Then in Kodak Photo Flo and washed in one gallon of distilled water..appox. 12 rapid tank fills/emptys. All chemicals and washes were made in 68 degree distilled water. After the film dried, I found a number of tiny white spots..some in a linear pattern, a few in a random pattern across all my negatives. These spots seem to come from the developing process because they can be scraped off, with some care. I will try re-washing them and carefully try to rub the spots off when they are wet. This is a problem I have never run into before. Could it be the Photo Flo was too strong?..Maybe the Fixer?...the developer and fixer were new and freshly mixed..the stop and photo flo a year or more old. BTW..it was in a Nikor stainless steel 250 cc tank..<br /> Anyone else experienced this?...any guesses?.. Also..all the specks are on the backing, not emulsion side to the film...<br /> Thanks..<br /> Rich</p>

<p>Been there, done that...after 40 years, still do it once in a while...it's film touching film..loading can be tricky...I prefer stainless steel tanks, others prefer plastic..practice until you get good at one or the other, then stick with that one...</p>

<p>Take it easy on yourself..it happens. Try this...get some Kodak Tri-X..the real thing, get some Kodak D-76...the real stuff, and some Kodak stop bath..really cheap.. and a real fixer, like Ilford Rapid Fix, or a Kodak equal. Then make absolutly sure your film is being wound in your camera...and easier mistake to make then you would think. I have been developing and printing B&W for 40 years, and still, occasionally make mistakes like that...</p>

<p>I am very, very particular about keeping film developer at exactly 68f. The stop, fixer and wash should also be as close to 68 as practical...the print temps are not quite so fussy, but, 68 is a good starting point, with a degree or two latitude in printing..I find this ensures consistency...</p>

<p>I have had the same problem with my Kowa Super 66...gotta be light seals..can be fixed fairly easily.</p>

<p>Could be evil spirits...it happens...</p>

<p>I also find HC110 hard to beat...</p>

<p>Kodak vs Ilford...both very fine films, one can argue for either..I use them both, but tend to like the "stiffness" of Kodak opposed to the "thinness" of Ilford's actual physical consistency. It makes Kodaks easier to load on to the tank reels, Ilford bends easier and may buckle more...</p>

<p>It is a Kowa super 66..one of the last ones made, about 1973 or so. I have put it through some "dry runs" and it seems to be in good working order. When I bought it, it was nearly new and I have obsessively babied it since. I know the earlier models have had some shutter problems, but, this one "sounds" fine. The only thing is the foam seals on the backs...there is a guy here in Minneapolis who will replace the foam, for about $100 per back, but, electric tape around the outside works well too..and a damn sight cheaper!..thanks all..for your input..</p>

<p>Thanks, Larry....I will try this...also with my 35mm..I have used Dilution B with 35mm with mixed results.</p>

<p>I am about to take my medium format SLR out of hibernation, and run a few rolls of Tri-X at 200 through her. I plan to develop in HC110. I see on the MDC that using dilution B it gives a time of 4.25, and, for more sgitation than I usually use, it gives a time of 5.75...longer development with MORE agitation?..Is that right?..it seems a little backward to me.., but it's been a long time since I have developed 120..</p>

<p>Thanks, Larry..</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Thanks for all the input...I'm not sure, but, I probably made a mistake mixing the HC110..it was my first time with this developer. I developed a couple more rolls today, and they turned out very good! I think I have found a new combination, Delta 100 and HC110...so far, I love it!</p>

<p>Evidently, I missed something. I'll recheck everything and give it another try..</p>

<p>Well, I used the Mass. Dev. Chart for a starting point...I used dilution B for 5 minutes..5 gentle agitations right away, then one agitation every 30 seconds.</p>

<p>I am experimenting a bit with other films/devleopers. I just developed a 35mm roll of Ilford Delta 100 at ASA 50 in HC110 at 68..The negatives were awfully thin. Could this be underexposure, underdevelopment?...any suggestions?</p>

<p>Thanks..</p>

<p>Good luck, welcome to the darkroom rats...one easy way to start out is with Tri-X, D76, don't worry too much about the stop bath, some use it, some don't.. Ilford rapid fix is a wonderful thing. I use distilled water for everything right down to the wash..it's cheap. A 500cc graduate or cook's measuring cup is fine..Dektol is a good beginner print developer. There are a lot of good options out there. Keep it simple and learn as much as you can as you go along...<br>

Have fun~!</p>

<p>I dunno...here in Minneapolis I have to warm my chemical up to get to 68..! takes patience..</p>

<p>Thanks, guys..my problem was I had the press way too hot!...live and learn, I guess..</p>

<p>Today I dug out my 40 year old Seal dry mounting press from the garage, and, surprisingly, it works like new! But, when I tried mounting a print, printed on RC paper, the coating on the paper "alligatored" something awful. Does anyone still use dry mounting with RC paper?..if so, any suggestions regarding temp. and time would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks...<br>

Rich</p>

<p>Nice work..I use TMax 100 in Ilfosol 3 as well. I agitate 7 times (a one roll 35mm tank) first, then 3 gentle inversions for the first 1/3 of the development time, every 30 seconds, no agitation for the middle 1/3 and 3 per 30 seconds for the last 1/3. I think that is a bit minimal agitation, but it works for me.</p>

<p>Just getting back into B&W after a long..long hiatus. I have become infatuated with Nikons and have recently accumulated a FE, F2, FG20 and am pursuing a classic F with photomic FTn meter..I have been using TMax 100, and 400 with nice results, but I am curious about Ilford films too..the Pan F, FP4 and HP5. I use Ilford chemicals and am very satisfied with that. Any suggestions, input on the cameras, film or chemistry would be appreciated.<br>

Thanks...<br>

Rich</p>