deaner66
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Posts posted by deaner66
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<p>Cheetahs</p><div>
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<p>Meerkat</p><div></div>
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<p>I went to the Kansas City Zoo with my family this weekend. No earth-shattering shots, but some decent ones.</p><div></div>
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<p>Potted Plants.</p><div></div>
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<p>I just caught a Lear Jet landing at the downtown airport.</p><div></div>
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<p>These are all shots with my K10D and the DA*50-135 zoom. Sometimes I still can't believe spent $750 on a lens. Then I see the pictures. One of Pentax's better lenses.</p><div></div>
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<p>For some reason my shots are showing up here a little dark. Hmmm. <br /> <br /> All my shots were taken with a K10D and the FA50mm f/1.4.</p><div></div>
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<p>Street Art</p><div></div>
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<p>Camus Wyatt: Great shot of the dragonfly. Whatever you did, it ends up looking like you did this in a studio. Very cool.</p>
<p>Dorus Oshiva: brave new world nr# is very nice. I like how it drags you away from the subject, to the subject.</p>
<p>George C.: Very surreal shot. Great light, excellent contrast between the still subject and the moving background.</p>
<p>Haig Tchamitch: Liberty is a very cool abstract shot.</p>
<p>As usual, a lot of great shots here. I can't say mine are great, but the subjects were.</p>
<p>These are walls covered in professional graffiti. Very cool stuff.</p>
<p> </p><div>
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<p>Try this page for some reviews, and prices paid for...</p>
<p>http://www.pentaxforums.com/lensreviews/showproduct.php?product=216&cat=44</p>
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<p>I've had a K10D for nearly two years now. Brilliant camera.</p>
<p>Lately, whenever I take night shots, longer exposures, my shots are filled with noise.</p>
<p>I admit up front, I don't use the NR feature because of the inconvenience of waiting for the "phantom" shot to mix with my shot. That said, the noise I now see, seems worse than ever before. And I have taken a lot of night shots with no complaints.</p>
<p>Has anyone else with a K10D had this problem? Also, I have to say, everything else about the noisy shots is crystal clear.</p>
<p>I'm kind of losing faith in my little buddy, here.</p>
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<p>Take some pictures, Justin....</p>
<p>Tell us what you REALLY think of this camera.</p>
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<p>Antoni, why not delete photos in-camera? I've never heard that before. I always have plenty of batteries so during downtime, I usually check for obvious poor shots and delete them to save time later.</p>
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<p>My card was a no-name 4 gig, Class 6 internet card. I've never had any problems with it, before this.</p>
<p>I've always downloaded my pictures, then re-formatted the card in camera. I did shoot a handful of shots when I got home and they looked alright. But I don't want to risk this again. So, I'll probably just toss this card.</p>
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<p>Here is what the files look like in Lightroom.</p><div></div>
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<p>Has anyone ever had a problem with a bad memory card? I took a bunch of pictures on the 4TH, and towards the end of the night, I decided to take some fireworks shots. While taking them, I noticed that instead of the shot coming up on the screen, a black screen saying "The image was not stored".</p>
<p>This was while I was shooting in continuous mode. Sometimes, while shooting 3FPS, the buffer will back up and stop me from shooting until it finishes writing to the card, but I've never lost files because of it.</p>
<p>When I was done, all I ended up with was about 25 of my last fireworks shots. The rest of my files had the black screen with a message saying "Cannot display this image".</p>
<p>Even after I got home and downloaded the files in Lightroom, the bad files were a mish-mash of colors and patterns.</p>
<p>I can live with a day of lost pictures, I just don't want it to happen again.</p>
<p>So has this happened to anyone else? Should I just dump this card?</p>
<p>I have a K10D that has had no previous problems.</p>
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<p>Fireworks shots are really easy. It just a time or two to get the basics down. Use a low ISO(I always use 100), try a shutter speed from 1 second to 4 or 5 secs depending on how long you want the streamers in the fireworks to be. A middle aperture is fine and a tripod or a solid place to put your camera is a must.</p>
<p>Other than that, just take as many shots as you can get while the fireworks are going off. And if you have a remote, you have better chances of keeping the camera perfectly still.</p>
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<p>Javier, do you have bad vision? Just wondering why you don't confirm your focus beep and light with your eyes.</p>
<p>I've read your complaints about the size of the viewfinder with the K-7, but honestly, I've never had a problem with it. That said, I have good vision. I've just never heard that many complaints about the VF with Pentax.</p>
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<p>Here is a decent spot to start:</p>
<p>Hope that didn't violate any rules, but that should give you an idea how much things cost and what is available.</p>
<p>Any bayonet mounted 50mm lens will be your walk-around lens for a K1000. And again, as others have said, the f/1.7 and f/1.4 versions will give you a bigger bang for the buck.</p>
<p>In my experience, a SMC-M 50mm f/2 will cost you about $20 or $30. A f/1.7 version can usually be had for about double the f/2. The f/1.4's, for some reason, vary in price.</p>
<p>If you can find one in good shape for under a $100, jump on it. Sometimes, it can be had for $50. It could possibly be the greatest value in the entire camera world. Seriously.</p>
<p>And you'll never need to see the front of the lens to know if it's a f/1.4. The huge interior element gives it away.</p>
<p>As for the 50mm Macro, I can't speak. I don't own any Macro lenses. Not yet anyway.</p>
<p>That's next on my list....when I get some cash.</p>
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<p>Spend $100 or less and buy a SMC-M or SMC-A 50mm f/1.4 and don't look back.</p>
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<p>I concur with the idea about taking time for each shot. I grew up on the K1000. It would have survived a nuclear blast. I distinctly remember dropping my K1000 on the ground. Quite a few times. And nothing ever happened to it.</p>
<p>I sold that camera on Ebay for $95. After I bought my K10D, I figured I would never need it again. I also sold a ME Super I bought shortly before I got the K10D.</p>
<p>I wish I would have never sold those two cameras, but I did.</p>
<p>I read Justin's post about the 645. It kind of got me juiced about MF film. And Pentax gave no quarter to anyone in the larger format cameras.</p>
<p>If I had more patience, and money, I would already have a 645 or a 6X7 camera.</p>
<p>Ever held a 6X7 in your hands? It's like a K1000 that never stopped growing.</p>
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<p>Haig, fabulous shot of the bird. Sharpness AND depth.</p>
<p>Some people have been asking about the 3D effect of some lenses. You got it here.</p>
<p>Even if it ain't a Pentax.</p>
<p>Right on.</p>
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<p>I am just outside of Kansas City, Missouri.</p>
<p>Regarding my Takumars, on my K10D, when you use the AUTO setting, no matter what aperture you use, the lens stays wide open. From what I've gathered on the internets, the pin that sticks out on M42 lenses is part of the AUTO setting. You turn the aperture, and the pin keeps the lens wide open for focusing, but switches to the aperture you selected once the shutter is released. That's why in the MAN setting, you can see the light get dim as you stop down--AND see why the idea of that pin on the lens and the AUTO setting came about. It gets tough to focus at f/16 on the MAN setting.</p>
<p>The adapter is easy to get on, and the lenses are easy to get off my camera once the adapter is on; it's the adapter that is kind of tough to get off my K10D.</p>
<p>Unfortunately, on my K10D, that pin doesn't work, so on AUTO, my lens stays wide open.</p>
<p>Make sense? Didn't think so. I can't explain it, but I understand it...finally.</p>
lightroom
in Pentax
Posted
<p>Sorry, I messed this up.</p>
<p>Ignore this post.</p>