nldimaging

Hi Michael, sorry but there isn't a function which shows the histogram only on the K10d, if there was you wouldn't be able to see what photo is referenced anyway. You are right about the left side being underexposed (black)and the right side being over (white). Think of it as every color in the spectrum between black and white. if the curve is on the left side of center it's low key, the right side is high, the height that it reaches is color depth. If it hits the top it'll spill to the adjacent pixels. It's quite a technical tool but it's the best one to use of any of digital's abilities. If you use Photoshop, open a photo go to window, show histogram, go into enhancements, adjust lighting - levels and you'll be able to manipulate a histo as you'd like it to be, It'll adjust shadows, midtones and highlights as well as color depth. You'll learn alot about them in there. Hope that helps : )

You're welcome Michael, I'm sure he'll like both versions : ). Most of the time when I set resolution, it's for sending in for photo finishing. I've found that 300-400 dpi for that purpose is fine and it keeps the file sizes small enough that they don't take a century to upload. Higher saved resoulution than that will make your file sizes MASSIVE and eat hard drive space Buffet style. The human eye doesn't see much higher resolution than that.

 

Home printers have higher resoulution printing capacities to control the spread of ink during printing, 2000-3000 dpi is how the printer will see and finish the photos so they don't look like bad tattoos when they're done. I've had a couple come off the home printer where I can see the pupils in spectator's eyes at Basketball games though, now That's high res : ). Don't hesitate to ask if you have any questions with PS, I've spent far too much time in school with that one : )

 

nextlevelimaging@aol.com

 

Les

Here's what I got tonight, wish my lens didn't suck so much, the K10 was better with the 50-135, but the crop was just as soft.

Here's how it should look including the bridge at a horizontal crop.

I took your original pic into PS, went to Enhance at the top, scroll down to Levels, in here you can adjust the lower ( shadows ) and upper ( Highlights ) then adjust the middle threshold to balance midtones. Once that was done, I cropped a 4x5 ( 8x10 layout ) of your pic. Duplicate the layer then use the Marquee tool in an elipse with a feather of 200-250 px to delete the middle of the COPY. In that level drop the lighting down 50% ( enhance - adjust lighting ) and Poof, you've just learned how to do a perimeter burn. I also used Smart blur ( Filters ) on the background layer at 2 Px threshold to soften the main portrait. doing that tends to fix all your minor blemish touch ups for ya : ) Try that with the original file, crop where you like including the bridge and always print at 30+ dpi, 200-250 for proofs. It's a nice pic, He'll like it : )

 

Les

BTW, if you don't type in any DPI, it won't interpolate new resolution to your photo and things can get a bit Blocky looking as it'll only crop the existing resolution. Always type in 200-300 dpi.

Here's one to throw a wrench in the machine, I saw the photo and had to do this.

First of all I hope you're editing copies of the files. Only speaking from experience, I've toasted a couple shots by playing with originals and it's too late if, and when, they don't fit in the Frame your using . . . When you do anything in PS, the file and your editing steps remain in your computer's Ram. The more you do with it the slower the PC gets. It'll upsize/downsize/turn black and white, cut, crop, and do all kind of rendering before it'll lose anything. If your Ram craters, you could lose the file, Hence the copy which doesn't affect the original. Your best bet is to save from largest to smallest. Decompressing from smaller to larger usually damages information. Most printers only deal with Jpgs and as much as I've worked with them not alot if anything has been lost. Unless you're saving directly off the camera as a Raw file, you're already converted to Jpg so It's technically too late anyway. If you're working from Raw, convert to Tiff and save before you do anything else.

Hi guys, It's really not all that complicated. Lift the metal tab that holds the focusing screen in place and it drops like a little trap door. Pay attention to the direction of the alignment tab on the screen when it comes out as it has to go back in the same way or you could bend the frame putting it back in. Blow the guts out of it with a small or medium blower and re-place the screen ( This is a good time to switch it to a split focus or other aftermarket crosshair/thirds screen. Be careful not to touch the screen beyond it's sides as your fingerprints will not help with focusing after your done ; ). A soft cloth will clean it if you do touch it. Tweezers on the tab help when putting it back in place, carefully snap it back up and away ya go : ) I had a nice sized chunk of plastic rattling around in my prism on the K10 when I got it, it was gone shortly after I figured out how the door opens. If you're worried about the mirror, You can always lay a small piece of cloth over it during the operation. Hope that helps ya : )

It says " Ships overdue from vendor " Does that mean we're waiting for Christmas 2009 or til hell freezes over. As much as I love my K10D, I'm afraid the it will be obsolete by the time some of these are available. The roadmap seems so far away. I actually got bored of the lens bubble, Picked up the Nikkor 70-200 f/2.8 VR, a D80 for wifey and Impatiently await the D300's arrival. I needed sharp, fast Pro glass NOW, not a friggin wish list. The 2 of em seem to get along in the camera bag, No major arguements . . . yet LOL I agree with you Justin, I'm not buying squat K mount til things get straightened out. 60-250 4.0 IMO should be 2.8 not 4. The Nikon glass is Niiiiiice : )

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Is there really such thing as an Official Photographer without any contract stating such? In today's society with the cameraphones and the digital camera packages and prices available, anyone can shoot whatever they want. If there isn't a ban on equiptment at any event, anyone can shoot. Capitalism allows us to sell whatever we want as long as it's ours to sell. Photos are property of the photographer as the law states. If people are threatened by others whith their own cameras at events, they'll have to step up their game and take better pictures. Let's say perhaps that someone with great selling ability and such is titled " Official Photographer ", hops on E-Bay, gets him or herself a digital rebel package with a lens and takes crappy pictures, should everyone who has their own equiptment and can shoot better suffer? I am the " Official Photographer " for a couple of organizations, I'm not worried about others taking their own, I'm more concerned with how mine look after management. If someone else gets a better pic from a different angle, I'm out 20 bucks , big deal. Let your knowledge speak for itself, I've had parents who are taking their own pics come back to me and say mine are better and make purchases from me.

The card reader is an extention drive like and additional hard drive to whichever cards are plugged in, you can view, delete, add, edit etc any pic in the dcim file on the card and it'll stay on there with the changes. Plug one in, right click and open an image with P-Shop or whichever editor you use and try it. It'll save like it would in a file on your desktop or hard drive.

Go into your Custom setting menu and make sure that you don't have AE linked to your AF point switched to on. If it's on and your AF point is on a shadow or dark spot it'll try to expose that spot which wipes out light points in the process, hence overexposing everything. As for the SR being switched off while on a tripod, the snapping of the shutter itself sends the SR all over the place. switching it off locks it into position and sharpens your pictures. Keep yourself in check with spot, center or matrix metering as well, those will make significant differences in the outcome of your shots.

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Hi Lorna, Here's a printable 4x6 chart that I've thrown on the site here a couple of times. Right click Save it and Print it as a 4x6 for referencing. : )<div></div>

I use Sv (iso priority) mode most of the time with my K10D, with a monopod, P mode works just as well at a set iso of 200 or 400 for daytime shots. Tv is better than Av for movement as you'll be less concerned with depth of field than you will be with freezing action. 1/250 is the lowest I'll let mine get to in the daytime.

Here's another one . .

I'm not sure if D/Rebels have a sharpness adjuster, but mine's cranked right up for football and mine are pretty sharp. Here's one at iso 200, 1/500, f-5.6 Pentax K10D, Sigma 50-500mm ( which is a heavy,slow TANK of a lens, Thank god for monopods ). 1600 is way too high for daytime shots.

Here, I'll throw this one in too for ya<div></div>

BTW, I have the K10D, Just go with that anyway. It's a fantastic camera. You won't need film to test dozens of focal ranges. I like my film bodies for Black and White, But I much prefer the digital world. : )

I'm not sure if this'll help, It'll be a good reference for the near/far focus ranges that should be working for you at different apertures. If they aren't working as this chart says they should be then something's definately wrong with the camera or lens. Save this and develop it as a 4x6 photo, It's a handy tool to have in the bag anyway : ) Distance = Lens to subject<div></div>