brodeub
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Posts posted by brodeub
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<p>The D90 doesn't easily accommodate mf glass. One of the nice things about the D2x/xs/xh/xhs series is that it works well with manual glass, so you don't need live view for more precise focusing. If you're primarily using AF glass, the main trade-offs are high-ISO noise and dynamic range. So the degree of obsolescence is relative to the type of shooting you do.</p>
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<p>The 80-400 is my main wildlife lens due to ability to handhold and to crop the image with the zoom. That being said, at 400mm, where it tends to be a lot, it's images are much improved at f/6.3 vs. wide open at f/5.6. So in thinking about your choices, you might want to factor in relative lens sharpness when shot wide open. Cheers, Brian.</p>
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<p>Why rely on the manufacturer's claim? It's easy to test yourself. Play a CD test disk (available from Stereophile) on your stereo and record the sound coming from the speakers. Assuming you don't have a cheapo stereo, in 5 minutes you'll know the approximate frequency response of the camera's audio section. Brian</p>
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Ben:
I have the DCS pro back plus, but since I don't have a high megapixel dslr, can't attest to a comparison. I second Ellis' observations above, but also offer that the back is no longer supported by Kodak, although there is some aftermarket support. When purchasing a back such as this you should assume that at some point it is going to need servicing. Regards, Brian.
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Good macro
in Nikon
Ryan: The 55/3.5 and 105/2.8 are generally regarded as the two best manual focus Nikon macros. I have both, but use the 105/2.8 more because of its greater working distance for a given level of magnification. They both magnify to 1:2 without extension tubes, and 1:1 with. Whatever lens you get it will be important to learn it's depth of field and good focus technique. Regards, Brian. -
I have this printer and purchased a custom profile. Not very expensive and improves printing performance.
Brian.
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Owen:
I wouldn't pay too much attention to the "brightness range" claims for dslrs. Unless you're a pro or an experienced amateur, you're going to have more range with a color negative film like Fuji reala, etc. and not have to worry about blown highlights. Regards, Brian.
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Any number of the digital slrs will meter well with the AI lenses - but that may not be your deciding factor. You may want to consider how well the different models focus manually with the AI lenses. If you review the forums here and around the net you will find commentary about the issues that arise with manual focusing accuracy of non-AF lenses, and potential solutions as well. As Richard mentions above, one thing people try is retrofitting the Katz Eye split-screen focusing screen, to give an alternative to the stock screen and electronic focus indicator. There are also discussions of quasi-calibration fixes. Brian.
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Jung - reminds me of Harry Callahan...Brian.
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Some recent discussion on dpreview suggests it may be an issue with handgrip putting very slight pressure on the lens release button thereby deactivating the AF. It's caused by a combination of the button protruding further forward from the face of the camera and the release force being reduced. Supposedly an issue with the d3 as well. Change your grip and see if it works. Brian.
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The Ricoh GRD II is out and first pics are now appearing on FLIKR. Some
comparison shots here give a sense of the jpg noise levels at various iso settings:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/hirosan/sets/72157603265024185/
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looks like chicago...
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It's a matter of style. The contrast between Hugo and Joey couldn't be greater - one looking to observe existence, with some wit, and a light touch, the other looking to perceive existence, with quite a heavy hand.
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Looks to me like a "35mm" HD video camera with a 12MP aps sized cmos sensor. $17.5k for the camera and $6.5k for the zoom lens. Brian.
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They're betting that they have a captive market, low switching risk, and a relatively long product cycle for a digital camera. They might be right given the high level of total investment required for the M8 camera system. Brian.
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I don't understand how this discussion is so prolonged. Take your digital and film cameras out on a sunny day, shoot a scene that straddles the shade, and you will have your answer in the time it takes you to develop your color negetive film. Very few digital sensors could have taken Santiago's picture above without blowing out the exterior scene and maintained the same level of shadow detail. From a practical perspective color negative film has more dynamic range that almost any digital sensor. Dynamic range continues to be the Achille's heel of digital technology, and if it weren't the case film's demise would have been much more accelerated. The Luminous Landscape in its reviews says some MF digital backs are getting closer, and I don't know about scanning backs. Brian
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"On the whole, matrix metering bats about 900, whereas center-weighted is more like 750 unless you take intelligent action."
My experience is precisely the opposite as I find center-weighted metering far more predictable than matrix. This is especially true in contrasty scenes. Brian.
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I have the Imacon 343 and find I can scan mounted slides just fine. Just tape the corners of the slide mount onto the holder, lower the magnetic cover, and the setup will stay in place as it is scanned. Brian.
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Well, if you go to his website and read the exif files for his posted images you'll find that during the last eight weeks he's used the D200, D70, D2x, M8, and, last but not least, the D-Lux 3. I think it's probably the talent....Brian.
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Complete lack of proportion - the world is getting to be a scary place...
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Link to photos here:
http://www.toledoblade.com/apps/pbcs.dll/article?AID=/20070406/NEWS08/70406008
Tempest in a teacup.
Brian.
SSD - a cautionary tale
in The Digital Darkroom: Process, Technique & Printing
Posted