acurlee

Zvia,

I am not an expert, but someone like you who is learning the flash. I worked with the 2nd curtain sync and had the same problems. What I learned (hopefully someone will chime in to say if I am right or wrong) is that the shutter speed of 1/60 or even 1/15 will be to fast for your eyes to see the difference in the flash speed. It's probably working, just your eyes are seeing it go off just after you press the button. I think the shutter is going down and back up to quick for you to see a difference at that speed. I had to drop my shutter speeds below a second to see a difference. You'll need a tripod. The second thing on the Canon flashes make sure you have the 2nd curtain sync setting on. Its the high speed flash/2nd curtain sync (>>>, my attempt to use the key board to copy the manual). Give it a try, drop the shutter speed down some more and put it on a tripod, this way you can see it working.

Scott,

I live in the area, but it has been a while since I have been to each of these places. If you are headed up to Carlsbad Caverns but want to avoid the tourist stuff, check with the web-site and get in on one of the more advanced cave tours. There is hugh cave system and there are four or five seperate places to enter all with thier own special features. Big Bend is a wonderfull place, but once you get around the river you need to be carefull. The water levels will be low and you will have to worry about the illegal activity (mentioned earlier, however with low water levels it'll be worse). Guadalupe is another great place, if you know where to go, otherwise it will start to look the same. El Capitan is a hike, although you state you are in shape and you sound like you do this on a regular basis, but for most people it would be a day activity. If you give up on going to Carlsbad Caverns, I would look into Hueco Tank. This is a very unusual set of rock formations. It draws people from all over the world to come and climb. It is a small park and one that you could see most in a day, but it has a very dramamtic landscape. The problem with Hueco Tanks though is due to the "trashing" of the pictographs the park as become restricted. They will only allow a limited number of people to enter the park. If you get there after it is full, you would have to wait until someone left. So get there early and avoid the weekends. This one place that you see few photos of and as I write this, I am kicking myself for not taking the camera out there. Again, I'm out of touch with these areas these days, but in my youth (10 years ago) were places I called home. If you need more advice about the El Paso area, shoot me an e-mail, I'll be happy to be of any help I can. One last thing, I know you wanted to avoid the man made tourist traps, but look up Marfa, Tx, got some interesting stories about the lights on the mountains at night.

Guy thank you for your extensive information. Your response helped me greatly. I know now I am going to buy receivers as I don't trust myself to not mess something up when it comes to soldering.

 

Jason thank you for your response. I had looked at the Microsync system a long time ago, I didn't think I could use them with the speedlights. I am going to research them again before I buy anything.

 

Thanks to the three of you for taking time out of your life to help me out.

Has anyone used these radio slaves with the Canon Speedlights? I am wanting

to get a pair for the 580 EX and 430 EX, but wanted get some user feedback

before I jumped in. Thanks for your time.

Thanks for the help guys, shame they put in the 10D grip but have since stopped doing it. Puppy Face, I got your first post. Thanks again.

Does anyone know if this new grip has the rubber grip on the back side (like

the camera). This was the one thing that I didn't like about the BG-E2. I've

have looked almost everywhere and can not find a decent picture of the back of

the grip.

Mark and Ron, I've got tons of questions and you guys are doing what I hope to be doing in a couple of years. Can I get on the deal with Marc and e-mail so I can get some advice.

Is it to late?

Daniel,

You're gonna have to have tougher skin, if you are going to ask a question without doing a little research first. Just a thought.

Craig,

Thank you for your response it was very helpfull. Hopefully the district would shoot it down.

To start with some backgroud. My wife is a middle school teacher and last year

and the start of this year I have gone to the sporting events to photograph her

students. My wife then prints up the pictures and post them on a the wall in

her class for her kids to look at. At the end of the year the kids take thier

pictures. This has been a very positive thing for her and her kids.

 

So what I was thinking about doing.

 

I wanted to continue taking the photos and continue with her posting the

printed ones at school. I was hoping to create a web-site (haven't done it

yet) to upload the pictures to and sell from. I would pass out flyers or

brochures with the website information to parents at the events. My hopes are

that the parents would then order prints from the web-site. I know that doing

on-site printing would be the best way to go, however I don't want to take out

a loan to get the equipment to start it. I also would not have any help to

work the booth or do the photo corrects if needed.

I'm also very picky when it comes to my pictures, so I like to have the final

say in what people get to see. The web-site would be a smaller dollar amount

to start with to see if the idea would work.

 

So the questions?

 

How does this work as it would be impossible to get 100 plus releases signed

before the game?

 

Do I pass word protect the images so that only people who got the flyer for the

game can access the photographs?

 

Who do I need to get permission from to do this?

 

How do I avoid angry parents that did not want thier kids pictures on the

internet?

 

I've done some research on the subject but most of what I have found is City

league play. I haven't seen the issue about the release or angry parents

addressed. I know that putting together a web site and the other things to

get this going is going to take some time, but I want to know the right way to

do it before I invest the money. (Got to much invested in the photography

equipment I have already).

 

Hope this make sense, I got a million and one ideas and questions floating

around in my head. Thank you for your time and responses.

The 50/1.8 is a great lens, however will autofocus to slow in the lighting conditions that you are probably working in. I would suggest the 85mm 1.8 the autofocus will be able to keep up with the action. Don't get this one confused with the 85 mm 1.2 L lense, the 85 mm 1.8 should run about $400. This is probably the cheapest option as the 70-200 2.8 is way up there in price.

Larry,

The zoom function my not work with the 3rd party lenses. Also, the button on the right (zoom button), will affect this operation. You can set a specific zoom say 105 with your lens wide open to 17, this setting would affect the zoom feature.

Tyler,

In case you are still checking this. I have no experience with the 85 1.8. However, I do have experience with the 50 1.8 and I think you will run into focusing problems in low light with moving subjects. I have tried using this in low light and it focuses to slow for me, I missed the shots. I had better luck with my 70-200 f4 L. Get the lens with the USM, if it is action shots that you seek in low light.

The above picture is with a 70-200 F4, haven't done anything yet with the 24-70 2.8. I guess I get rid of the pics where the dog is in full gate, so this is the closest that I have. By the way, I am not in any way happy with this or any of the others that I have taken, so I'm not advertising this as quality, just an example of the environment and what I've done previously. So tips to make it better would be great. I have already ordered the book "Matters of Light" recommended in other posts. Thanks again.

A little background: I have a Canon 30D, a 580 EX speedlight, and a 24-70 2.8L.

I am trying to photograph dogs at night in very low light. Due to the lighting

I am looking for a wireless system, with a high sync speed. I have to shoot

1/640 sec to stop the action. The pocketwizards and the quantum units have a

cut off at 1/250. The Canon system doesn't have the distance that I need to

keep the enviorment safe. I've tried the 580 at all kinds of settings and with

a diffuser (lightsphere) and can get a balanced look, due to how dark the

enviroment is ( have no control over this, it is rarely done in the day, or

places with decent light at night). I can't afford the big strobe units and

having extention cords to light work lights would be a hazard. I am looking

for a kit with hotshoe flashes that I could use for this application as well as

other (portait or candid) work. Can anyone recommend a wireless system as well

as flash units that would be good in this type of situation?

 

Thanks for your time and responses.

I am going to assume that you meant the 70-200 f4 L, because I haven't seen a 50-200. I went through the same debate about 6 months ago. I decided to purchase the 70-200 f4 L, based on reviews and price. I is a great lens and I am more than happy with it's sharpness wide open at 200mm. I use this lens for everything and have been successful with using a slow shutter speed (under 1/200) without a tripod. In fact other that long exposures, I haven't used a tripod. I bought it to shoot my son's soccer games and it worked great. In fact it has been a great all around lens. My vote 70-200 f4, unless you need the extra reach and have plenty of light. I've actually managed to shoot indoor basketball games with this lens. If you haven't visited this site check it out, it has great reviews of all the Canon lenses www.the-digital-picture.com. By the way the lens is on a 30D. Oh and one more thing, once you see "L" quality you will be addicted, I just spent the last six months saving for a 24-70mm 2.8 L lens.

Yes, at work I always have my camera with me. I am in a similar profession and my camera and the small kit I own are with me. Something things that I considered. I never take pictures of what is happening at a scene, I'm there to work. I never take pictures of people when I'm driving around, that's how you get complained on. I use it to take pictures of night scenes (landscapes or buildings) when it's slow or when we are training. I keep my gear in a Storm case (similar to a Pelican Case) to keep it protected from the hard bumps and bruises. My 580 EX is in another smaller Pelican case. In my situation, I am the only person who access to the vehicle, so it's locked if im not in it, plus there are other things more valuable to steal. The car runs my whole shift so the climate inside the vehicle is constant. The cases can be a pain, but it is worth the protection. I have only missed one picture in 3 years when I needed the camera right away. I agree with another post that you should not be taking pictures of a scene and what people are going through. We see some interseting stuff and we get a great perspective, however if you start taking these pictures you are no longer an EMT, but a journalist. I've seen some great pictures but I just leave my camera where it's at (cases come in handy here, to hard to get them out and be tempted). I carry my whole kit at work (Canon 30D, kit lens, 50 mm 1.8, and a 70-200 f4, 580 ex, and bracket) and I have some good night pictures of the city or moon. The camera doesn't get a whole lot of use, but I have it, it's safe and protected, so when I see something I want to remember I have it. I know this is long winded, hope it helps.

Or you can just take it all and play with your new toys.

I am going on a trip and want to take along a 100-400 L or the 400 5.6 L to use

for while on vacation. Has anyone rented a lens? Is it a good idea and any

recommendations? Thanks for your time.

I am going through the same debate. The reviews I have read say both the Tamron and the Sigma were very soft at 2.8. I wanted to avoid spending $1200 on the Canon L lens, but I need a usable 2.8. I haven't purchased anything yet, so I can't speak from experience. But all the reviews have said you get what you pay for, and your test shots are in line with the samples in the reviews.

 

here is one link: www.the-digital-picture.com

I own a 30D and if I ever get good, I'll buy a full-frame body. So my lens purchases are EF lenses, that way I can use them if I get to switch. I don't think you would be disappointed with the 30D and you would be able to afford L lenses with the savings. Save the EF-S lens purchases for ones you must have, that way you can upgrade to a full frame body down the line. When you do you will have great lenses to put on it.

Kazuaki,

Thanks for your time, answers, and follow-up. I'm gonna try the transmitters and the linked work. But I think you solved the problem with the dog mounted flash. (That was a good one, and a much needed laugh.)

I am using the autofocus with the * button and tried focus on the dog and the person, sometimes I've gotton lucky.

Will I have better luck if I use a 24-70 L 2.8 or the 70-200 L 2.8?

Also what is the name of the radio transmitter from ebay and how many flashes will they control.

 

Again thanks again all for all your help.

 

Aaron

I am trying to take pictures of dogs at full speed at night in horrible light

outside. I am using a 30D with a 70-200 f4 L lens and a 580 flash. I can't

get rid of the harsh shadows. I'm pretty sure I need at least two more flashes

to balance this out (although I do have a problem with placement of one of the

flashed blinding the person on the bite side of the dog). Any suggestions on

what will help with out breaking the bank. I don't think the ST-E2 will work

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