r dyer

GICLEE as far as im aware is a inkjet print using more than 8 inks on a pigment printer.

So can only be used to describe the best quality prints.

It all depends on how accurate you want the color to be. If you can do it by eye and its

good enough then great. If your more serious then even a good camera white balance

wont solve the issue as you can have a cast in the shadows, a different one in the mids,

and again a different one in the highlights. If you cant use a grey card then you will have

to do the best you can with what the image provides.

I find something i know should be grey or white, and something i know should be black.

Sample the RGB levels of each, and use a levels adjust layer to correct the cast in the

shadows and the heighlights. If you have a series of images shot at the same time to do

save the levels adjust and apply to the other images, or create a droplet to save time.

Hi, just to let every one know incase some one else looks at this.

NEC have said that there are menu's missing from the OSM, and are taking it in to repaire. I

will update when it arrives back.

Hi im looking for a book that explains comping and montage techniques.

It needs to be indepth and high end stuff.

Any Ideas?

Thanks

Ok i can tell you how it works in pro and hopefully that will help you.

launch the program and click next until it comes up with a screen that says "current

settings"

Select change these settings

Go through to the "select target" window and select new at the bottom

It then goes through gamma, white point etc

You then come to "select luminance mode" with the choice of visual or measured.

Chose measured

This will then get you to input the brightness that you want between 100 to 120 is good.

Now that you have changed that it should ask you to adjust the contrast and brightness in

the calibration.

I usually leave the contrast and only use the brighess on my display, but it might be

different for you

If this isnt in spyder2 then hopefully you will have a tools menu at the top of the screen.

Click tools>colorimeter

This should then bring up a calibration box. You can then take readings and adjust the

brightness on you CRT until the readings read between 100 and 120. You can see the

brightness in the CIE Luv window. It has a L at the end of the number.

Let me know if this works for you.

Russ

Hi Allen, i use a spyder2 and software on my laptop display. The color never gets that goos

on them, but i found by using basiccolor software instead it got slightly better. I have my

brightness set at 100%, and its still nowhere near bright enough.

For the crt, when you run the spyder software are you telling it to measure the luminance, or

just doing it visually?

i have just used basiccolor on a 1990sxi, and it was a massive improvment to the spyder

software that i was using. It didnt give me the option to fully hardware calibrate, but it

looks like it has done something to the monitor.

At 100% brightness the monitor used to read roughly 270lux, so to get it to 100lux i had

to take it down to around 40%. After using basiccolor at 100% brightness it is reading

100lux.

Am i right in thinking that this is what hardware calibration would do?

And will it have done this to the color temp etc as well?

Also with setting the display to default, the only controll on the display is the backlight

(brightness) so to set it to default all you need to do is to "set the brightness to high", All the

color changes etc that you created using the spyder and done with the profile and your

graphics card. So to reset the color all you need to do is delete the profile you created.

The control on the apple display is backlit, if it is your prints that are comming out looking

bad even after you have used the spyder on your monitor, its probably your printer that

needs calibriating.

I am already using the temperature slider, but at 6500 its giving a green cast, hence i wanted

to use the green slider to take some out.

Seems to be where im having the problem then, i only have offset and saturation. Neither of

which affect a cast on the screen. Weird

Hmm mine seems to have menu's missing. I have already tried going into the rgb, then to

1,2,3,or 5, but in the adjust menu i only have offset, and saturation. There is no "white" any

where!

So are you aying that with out spectraview the r/g/b guns/sliders can not adjust the colour of

the screen?

Hi mike, if your getting into digital photography then there is no real point in getting an

apple display. The controls on the monitor are very very limited, and the display its self is not

very colour accurate at all. For the same price, and often cheaper you can get a far better

monitor. Try the NEC Multisync range, and the mid range Iiyama monitors are very good as

well. These will last you longer if you ever start to get more serious about photography, so

are a better investment!

Russ

Hi guys

Ok ive just got the nec 1990sxi, which i was told was amazing. So i tried to calibrate it using a spyder2

pro, but the r/g/b/y/m/c guns dont make a difference to the screen, the only thing that does are the

preset color temps, any one else had this? or have any experience with these monitors who can help?

At the moment i mite as well have brought the cheaper model as mine has no better features!

Thanks in advance

Russ