wyman_ladd

Assuming you had removed the cover mentioned earlier,I have a 4490 so I'm not sure if the set up is exactly the same.My usual settings for 35mm film(negs or slides)same settings you started with except 24 bit,4800dpi,document size I leave at original.Hope this helps.?

Try Fuji Sensia 100

My personal favorites are Tri-x 400 and Ilford Delta 400.I would highly recomend the delta 400 if you haven't tried it yet.(I also use yellow and red filters)

If you plan on shooting sunsets and sunrises and using matrix metering (or any other).I would advise a graduated ND filter maybe a 4 or 8.Don't get a circular one if the end of your lens rotates as you focus.If your lens rotates get the square filter with bracket that fits on the end of your lens(I prefer this kind anyway).Good Luck

Try the Nikon 28-105 3.5-4.5D .For under $200 on e-bay this is a very,very good lens.Sharp,good fast auto focus,great color saturation,and even a macro setting.I would highly recommend this lens.

I second the advice given earlier for using fuji Provia 400 for wildlife and action and Velvia 50 or 100 for your landscapes.If you don,t have to travel too light I would also suggest for the best landscape shots (especially sunrise and sunset),a tripod,2 ND graduated filters ( 03 and 06 ) and a circular poloriser.Good luck!

You are a funny man Albert,I like your sense of humor.I'd try the 17-55 2.8 I've heard thats pretty good.

I would use fuji 800 if you are using a lens with a 2.8 or lower (1.8) apeture.If the lens is 3.5-4.5 0r higher I would go with the 1600,being inside the lighting situation might be unpredictable and this way you cover all your bases.I would not push the film.IF(?) your worried about a orange cast from indoor lights a light blue filter would help,or shoot normal and scan and fix in photoshop later.

Most people don't enlarge past 16x20 for which case film or a 10mp dslr can easily handle.Without photoshop help a 6mp dslr will start to pixelate at this size.You can get excellent results from film and digital so use whatever you like, or like most of us, use both.Your scans are limited to your scanning experence and your scanner(neither scanner you used is considered a top scanner).And while I shoot 70% digital, like Luis for some reason I get much more enjoyment sliding a fresh roll of Provia100 or Tri-x400 into one of my film cameras,put my settings on manual, and burn light onto film.Thats ONE reason I still use film, not what resolution I'm getting from a over magnified section of of a picture that looked perfectly fine at its regular size to begin with.If your point was to show that digital cameras have great image quality I think everyone knows this already.But comparing digital to film seems pointless,they are two differnt tools/formats,both have slight advantages/disadvantages over each other, use the one that best suits what you want to do or use both.Alot of GREAT photographs have been made in the last 100 plus years,I dont recall resolution being mentioned as one of the things that made them great.

I would suggest these lenses...28-105 3.5-4.5D

70-300 4.5-5.6D ED

50mm 1.8D (new)

The first two lenses you will have to get on ebay as they have been recently discontinued.But you can own all three for under $500.They are all very good lenses and will cover just about any kind of photography you might want to do.(the 28-105 has a macro setting)If you can afford one more lens I'd get the 18mm or 20mm 2.8D.Good luck

I own a N90s and as far as I know the way to focus on a off center subject is either using AF lock or.... lightly depress shutter relese button and let the auto focus focus on your off center subject,then keeping shutter relese button lightly depressed move camera and compose picture then fully depress button too take picture.This takes a little bit of practice but after a little practice it's very easy.To my knowledge there is no directional pad on this camera and this is the only way for off center focusing.As for your veiwfinder question,I have a grid screen on mine and there is no double line.Hope this helps,this is a great camera have fun and good luck.

Jeff I agree with what you say, however, my answer was to the question only, not whatever it is you are talking about.I LOVE both formats and USE both formats,I think the only biased one is you!.?

Jeff I belive the question was "film look straight out of camera"for which I belive (IMO)my answer is correct.I also stated that software could be used to get a CLOSE to film look as you have made us aware.But in "my" opinion its easier to just use the film that has the look you like than to spend time in front of your computer clicking your mouse trying to achieve a similar look.We all have two great formats (digital and film) we can use to create great images.Don't get hung up on one or the other,use both to their advantages and you can't go wrong.

All digital camera images look digital because thats what they are.And just about all digital camera pictures have to be slightly corrected in photoshop to equal the image quality of film.You can use imaging software on your images to make them look a little closer to a sort of film look.But if the film like look is important to you....USE FILM.

There are 2 buttons on the camera that have a roll film icon next to them.Press them both at the same time and hold for 1 or 2 seconds the film should rewind.Otherwise keep shooting till the end of the roll and it should rewind automaticly.

My advise (IMO),do as much as you can to use photoshop as little as possible.I would definatly use filters rather than photoshop,why spend 5 min in photoshop when it takes 10sec to put on a filter.I also find the less photoshop you do on an image the more natural it looks.Just my opinon.

As stated earlier the photos on the left are overexposed.Check your manual of how to use the cameras exposure meter and get a book on or have someone teach you how to meter a scene,this should improve things greatly.Also while your lenses are adaquate for a beginer .they are not the best for optimal image quality (sharpness,color saturation,etc.).As you get better I would advise investing in higher quality Nikon lenses.Another option after you understand exposure is a slide film like velvia or others which are very good at saturating colors.Good luck.

To answer the question asked me earlier,the main differnce I notice (IMO) is a slightly smoother and cleaner look to things that should show a hint of texture (skin, rocks, etc). The other thing is blown highlights with digital look terrible especially with B&W.I read someone mention colors earlier looking a bit off but I think with digital that varies from camera to camera and also varies from film to film with film,I don't find the color thing a problem.I find the smoother and cleaner look of digital is good for portrait work which is what I use it for.I tried shooting landscapes with it but was happier with the results I got from slides.Also black and white I always shoot with film.I find even if its scanned and printed it still looks better than B&W from the digital camera.I'm sure someone will say they can photoshop the crap out of something and it will look the same(to them).But I can't justify spending time sitting in front of the computer tring to get something I can get with good exposure and firing the shutter with film,but thats just me.The person who mentioned going to the gallery earlier,chances are the film pictures were scanned (AND) photoshoped because thats about the only way you wouldn't be able to tell the differnce between digital and 6x7 film.But then again he could have one of those $40,000 medium format digis,I have not seen images from those so can not comment.

I can't belive some people have written and tried to say they see no differnce between the two formats.There is definatly a difference,digital seems a bit smoother or plasticy but I find that works great for portrait work and most people seem to like it.If they don't like it or they don't want digital (which doesn't happen often)then I shoot slides or b&w film.Either way I think both have a slightly differnt look and feel to them and enjoy shooting either way.Digital IS NOT better than film as some will have you belive,but film quality(35mm) IS NOT better than digital as others would say.They are both excellent formats that when used correctly produce great images.I hope film is not dead as some like to say because as long as it's around I'll continue to use both formats to get the results I want.

I'm sorry to hear you sold your scanner as you were probably getting the best of both worlds doing it that way.Scanning at 4000dpi as you were,you were getting an image with a resolution of 21 megapixels, now your looking to get a camera that only has 10.If you must have a digital camera go for it,the image quality is very good (but NOT better than slide film as you'll find out) and you will save money on film.But my bet is that as soon as you can afford it(and the novelty wears off) you'll be shooting slides again along with digital...thats what I did. I've read the comments left here and theres plenty of good advice so far,good luck.

I think the FM2 or FE2 are both good choices.If the lenses are compatable maybe a N80,which would be a better as the set up is more like modern DSLRs which I'm sure he'll eventually upgrade to.I took one of these classes about a year ago (I've been into photography for a while and decided to take it a bit more seriously so took the class)I learned so much from using the film camera (N80).Everytime I got my film devoloped was a lesson learned.I have since upgraded to a DSLR but find myself still prefering the experince of using film(slide film).Using film will allow him to focus on the basic art of learning photography instead of the buttons on his camera and photoshop.Good Luck

All lenses have their specs on the lens body.For example the focal length is 28-105mm the f stop or lowest apeture ranges are 3.5-4.5 and the "D" would be the lenses type depending on the sensors,lens build, camera types etc.So a "D" spec lens would read 28-105mm 1:3.5-4.5D,the D should be the last letter in the line expect in the case of the 70-300mm lens I mentioned.It will read 70-300 1:4.5-5.6D ED.The ED is for the type of glass use in the lens which is supposed to help image quality.In my last note I belive I typed in the lenses specs as you should see them on the lens barrel.The 50mm 1:1.8D you can still get new for about $100.But the other lenses have been recently discontinued so you wiil have to shop on ebay or some other online store to get them.Look to spend between $150-$200 for each of these lenses,make sure you shop around and get them in the best condition possible.I have had good sucsess buying from shutterblade on ebay but there are plenty of other sellers to choose from.IF you want help getting started see if a collage or photographer near you has a photography class and sign up.Other wise get a book on exposure and one on composition and the manual for your camera and go from there,Good luck....

I don't know if you want new or used or what kind of buget your on but here are my buget picks.Shop on e-bay carefully and you can get a Nikon 28-105f/3.5-4.5D a Nikon 70-300f/4.5-5.6D ED and a Nikon 50mm 1.8D. You can get ALL THREE of these lenses for under $500 and they wiil handle almost every type of photography you might want to shoot.They are also very good lenses with outstanding image quality, just make sure they are all "D" spec lenses so all the camera metering tools will work.Good luck

When you go to Mamiya.com look under "master of medium" it's their website.

My suggestion would be a memiya rz67 pro 2.Do some research on this camera and the 6x7 format(try mamiya.com)I don't think you'll be dissapointed.Invest in a couple of good lenses and you'll be on your way.If you want you can always add a digital back.(Ithink they make one for this camera but I'm not 100% sure)I think film will always be the way to go for serious fine art photography.Not that there aren't some great digital pics out there, but I dont think their percieved or valued the same way.