ken_wayne1
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Posts posted by ken_wayne1
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<p>To quote Q.G.De Bakker from a previous post here about this:<br /><br /><br /></p>
<p>"The (simple, sole, and true) reason Hasselblad put a glass plate in their Polaroid backs was that the rod protruding out of the camera's back, tripping the "exposed" flag in Hasselblad magazines, would hit the Polaroid film pack, doing damage to the film, and possibly not extending far enough to make the camera cycle.</p>
<p>Hasselblad decided to move the film pack back, and bridge the gap using a glass plate, which in effect moves the image back, elongating the lens to film distance enough to produce a sharp image behind the "regular" Hasselblad film plane.</p>
<p>I don't know the NPC backs, but it may well be that arranging the Polaroid pack inside the back differently will prevent the rod colliding with the Polaroid pack, allowing to put that in the proper distance behind the lens, avoiding the need for a lens-to-film distance extending glass plate."<br /><br /><br>
<br />Though I've sold tons of them I've never actually used the NPC back so can't speak from experience but I have never heard anyone say that the lack of glass caused any problems unless it was a problem unique to their particular magazine. Most people I've ever spoke with were very pleased with them.<br /><br /><br /> </p>
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<p>By the way...if you see an NPC polaroid for sale for the Hasselblad it will either be the MF-1, which is the one that works with all of the non EL bodies and then the MF-2 which works with the EL bodies and the Superwides.</p>
<p>As a matter of fact see an example of an MF-2 here:<br /><a href="http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=330668587499">http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&_rdc=1&_trksid=p4340.l2557&item=330668587499</a></p>
<p>And an MF-1 here:<br>
<p>Note the difference where the mounting slots are on the magazine. You may have to click on the little link under the title that says "see original listing" to see all the photos.<br /><br /><br />. </p>
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<p>NPC actually made two types of polaroid magazines. One extends below the bottom of the camera body so that you can use them with 90 degree prisms and the other sits just like the blad magazines. The NPC polaroids sell very cheaply. The Hasselblad polaroids do as well depending on your cosmetic preferences. The polaroid 100 is the way to go if you want Hasselblad's brand but the NPC will do fine too. Why buy something with glass in it that you have to be concerned about scratching and such? <br /><br /><br />Especially if you're just checking exposure. I can tell you this...all of it HAD to be made by the same manufacturer. I know this for a fact because right now I have about 10 NPC backs and maybe the same amound of Hasselblad polaroids and the internal roller mechanisms are EXACTLY the same. I don't mean "similar" I mean exactly the same. You can use an NPC roller mechanism in a Hassy magazine if you have a broken piece or something.<br /><br /><br />So it's pretty clear to me that the same company manufactured all of it. NPC used to have a website <a href="http://www.npcphoto.com/">http://www.npcphoto.com/</a> that told all about their varying models but after they went out of business they dumped the website and now some Japanese company must own it. <br /><br /><br /> </p>
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<p>KEH is a very reliable company and they stand behind what they sell. I've bought two lots of gear from them lately and both times they sent me wrong items or sold me items they did not have in stock. So they aren't perfect but they worked with me on it and we got it straightened out.</p>
<p>David Odess is one of the finer people that I know in this business. I have been selling Hasselblad gear for 10 years ( mainly on ebay under the name Spiritandtruth ) and I've had to have Dave repair many lenses and camera bodies through the years. He has always been stellar and always stands behind his work. I'd personally like to see you buy from him before KEH but that'll be your call. When you buy from Dave you're also helping children because he does great work for the Pediatric Brain Tumor Foundation at http://www.pbtfus.org/.</p>
<p>Year in and year out David collects the most money at the Ride For Kids events ( correct me if I'm wrong on that event David ) and so you're helping children when you do business with David also. I highly recommend him.</p>
<p>Now, in regard to KEH let me say that when they sell something bargain grade it will almost ALWAYS have some kind of issue with the glass. From buying and selling Hasselblad gear from all over the world I have learned time and again that most nobody knows how to check glass on camera gear. Unless they're buying. Sellers seem to always have such a hard time with this.</p>
<p>So let me share the ONLY way to properly assess glass on any lens or anything else with glass in it. You take a flash light or a pen light and you open up the aperture and shutter blades all the way and you shine the light from front to rear then from rear to front. Most people will be amazed at what they see. It's the only way to truly evaluate glass and really see what it has on it in regard to cleaning marks, scratches, haze, fungus, etc.</p>
<p>If you buy a bargain grade at KEH you can usually know that they've seen something on or in the glass but if you only look at it with your eyes topically and with no light then you probably aren't really going to notice it.</p>
<p>And will these cleaning marks have any affect on your photos? Let me just say this. I've sold countless lenses that had cleaning marks on them ( and most do ) and on most of them I've given guarantees that if the buyer saw any ill affect on his/her photos that they could return it to me for a full refund and not one time....ever......has a seller returned a lens to me because they felt like the images weren't up to their expectations. So all of this cleaning mark stuff can get so overblown.</p>
<p>Does it affect value? Sure. If you study a photo magnified a hundred times might some snob say, "oh I can see a small difference," well, you're always going to have someone that can make such a claim but at the end of the day....most lenses do not have anything on the glass that will significantly affect a photo. It will still perform nicely albeit at a better price. I often say that most people have more pronounced "dust" on the external surface of their lenses than any microscopic cleaning mark one might find so some of this stuff just gets silly after a while.</p>
<p>And I hope people wont bash ebay too much. I've been selling their for 10 years running and it's been nothing but a blessing. I have friends all over the world now because of that place and I'm very grateful for their service. I bet very few people in this forum haven't bought things there. <br /><br /><br />Sure, I wish I had a thriving personal website and I didn't have to pay them and maybe that will come in due time but every camera store ( KEH, B&H, Adorama, Calumet, etc. ) in the land also sells there so it tells you how effective the place can be.</p>
<p>That's my two cents.</p>
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<p>Hey was looking at this old thread and was wondering if anybody ever found a solution to the UV problem. I am looking for a UV for a 30mm fisheye. Anybody ever find out where to get one or how to resolve the problem of not having one?</p>
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<p>By the way....I called Hasselblad New Jersey this morning and asked the head of the service department, John, what kind of problems he's seen out of these backs. Of course any serious issue has to be sent off to Sweden to be repaired but he said he has seen very little problems out of these backs except for the occasional damage from dropping or a scratched IR filter. Functionally, though, he said he has seen no real problems come through so that's good news as well.</p>
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<p>Great information Paul! Thank you so much. This helps a great deal. I've learned quite a bit about all of this in the last day so thank all of you guys for the help. My best.</p>
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<p>Oh that helps a bunch Paul. Thank you so very much for providing the photo. So this IR will always be attached to the back. Glad to know.</p>
<p>So the last remaining question is....how to know the count on them. I keep hearing different things from different people as to know how to retrieve the count on them.</p>
<p>Thanks so much!</p>
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<p>Thanks for the replies Paul and Edward. Can you guys explain how the IR filter works and what it looks like? Are you guys saying it's integrated into the back and NOT a separate piece that can be lost? Edward, you say the IR is not user replaceable which means what....that you have to send it off to Sweden to have it replaced?</p>
<p>If it is missing then is the camera dead and have you heard what it costs? These are important questions for buyers to know when they buy these backs on the used market and I've not been able to find the answers to these questions.</p>
<p>Secondly, how does one find the count on the back? Can you post the process to find it? I would be MOST grateful. </p>
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<p>Hello,</p>
<p>I'm hoping that you guys who have used the CFV digital backs can give me your assessment of them now that they've been out for a while. If I am buying one can you tell me the issues that I should be most concerned about with them?<br /><br />Are the differences between the CFV I and CFV II enough to justify any big price difference?</p>
<p>Have you had to have yours repaired in any way and how was the process and what was the problem?</p>
<p>Do actuation counts really matter since there are no moving parts? I understand that you can only get the count on one if you send it to Sweden. True?<br /><br /><br />Lastly, can someone post any photos showing the difference cosmetically between the CFV 1st generation vs. the CFV 2nd generation? And if you could post a photo of the IR filter I would be most grateful and if it is lost can it still be replaced?<br /><br /><br />Thanks so much for any replies. <br /><br /> </p>
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<p>David, I must agree and admit that "correct exposure" isn't always the photo I like the best.</p>
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<p>I have perused many websites through the years on a regular basis and I know of no other site that I have been to except for religious or political debate sites that can so quickly degenerate into these childish tit for tat arguments. Perhaps photo.net should rename the site www.photodebate.net if that's their goal.<br>
<br />Is it so utterly difficult to give an opinion and/or advice and then leave it at that? It seems to be the same ones over and over here who are so utterly compelled to give snide and unfriendly comments. </p>
<p>If you run a business or treat others "in person" as you treat them on this site then I would say you have a very limited stable of friends. Seems to me that the computer gives one a sense of bravery that one probably wouldn't have if standing with a man face to face.<br /><br />. </p>
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<p>Mervyn,</p>
<p>For you to seek out the answer to a problem shows great intellect as far as I'm concerned.</p>
<p>But now regarding the use of this term...."silly-billy"................</p>
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<p>Chris Waller,</p>
<p>I commend your comments. Very well said.</p>
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I have a friend who wants to use his Metz af 50 flash for canon with his Hasselblad 555eld. Is there any reason why he cannot or should
not use this flash with his 555eld camera body?
Also what adapter does he need to buy to use this flash with his camera?
Thank you In advance for helping my friend,
Ken
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<p>Indeed Q.G.!</p>
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<p>Peter,</p>
<p>You need the bay 60 38-60mm Lens Shade. I actually have one if you need it. I sent you a private message about it. If you find one elsewhere no problem but I assure you that the bay 60 38-60mm is the one that was made for your lens.</p>
<p>blessings,<br>
Ken</p>
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<p>Hello Jody,</p>
<p>Yours may simply be worn out and stretched a bit. If so you would honestly do better to buy a new one. Your lens is also missing the plastic retention ring that fits up under the rubber grip. I think Hasselblad parts department in New Jersey will have both of these parts but in all honesty they will probably charge you as much for the parts as you would pay for an entire bargain grade 150 cf lens. I can hope that I'm wrong on that.</p>
<p>I've taken many of these rubber grips off of the lens and there is almost always some oil residue under them that I'm sure also helps them to grip the barrel a bit. I've never removed one that had glue under it because Hasselblad did not make them that way. They simply fit snugly onto the lens barrel. Occasionally I've had one that slips also and it was usually just stretched and worn out.</p>
<p>So I'd try Hasselblad at first and then maybe try some alternatives. The only thing that will probably hold it in place since you don't have the plastic ring that fits under it would be some sort of glue. I'd hate to see you use that option but it may be your only way to resolve it cheaply.</p>
<p>I'm sure others may also have some better solutions but that's all I have.</p>
<p>Let us know what you decide and how it works out for ya.</p>
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<p>Nope.</p>
<p>I respectfully let him know, however, that if Mr.Knapman did not like his information being shared publicly then he might want to contact Mr.Richard Nordin about it who, as you know, is the author of the Hasselblad System Compendium because Mr.Nordin published Mr.Knapman's information on page 93 of his book.....phone number and all.</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I wanted to come back to this thread and let it be known that Mr.Timmer let me know that he has no interest in being bombarded with requests about 1000F cameras and had preferred that his name had not been given out publicly. He also let me know that Mr.Knapman does not like his information being made public either.</p>
<p>For what it's worth.</p>
<p>I had asked that Mr.Timmer's name be removed from my posts but the moderator here was reluctant to do so apparently. I have no information to give out for the man.</p>
<p>I made a bad assumption that people who are in the business of repairing cameras would want people to know that they are in the business of repairing cameras.</p>
<p>My apologies to Mr.Timmer and the forum.</p>
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<p>The 500c is the older of the two. They did not allow the screens to be changed unless you wanted to use a screw driver and even then one did not have a big selection to go by.</p>
<p>The 500cm allows for a very easy change of the viewing screen. Many photographers want a brighter screen vs. the old original standard screen so it makes it quite easy to change them out.</p>
<p>Other than that there is no difference that warrants a massive price difference.</p>
<p>With all of that said, I would suggest a cm over a 500c if you can get one. Also, they made some cameras that say 500c on the side of them but in fact they are a 500cm with the removable screen. Always ask just in case....if the screen is "clipped" in or screwed in when you inquire about one.</p>
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<p>Go to the link I'm providing and this guy has all you want to know and more.....I was amazed when I ran upon his article a year or so ago. I've not read it in a while but remember the depth and length at which he pursues film flatness.</p>
<p>Check it out:<br>
<p>Let me know what you think.</p>
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<p>Brett,</p>
<p>Thanks for the nice words about the images of the 1000F. I really appreciate it. I can't hold a candle to most of these guys that hang out here but I try. </p>
<p>The camera ended up selling for $787 and is headed to the Island of Malta ( Republic of Malta ) to a buyer there who has bought several Hasselblad items from me already and has quickly become a friend. You can know that this gentleman will get it resurrected back to complete working condition either through Mr.Timmer or through his own contacts but he has the resources to make it mechanically new again so I'm excited about that.</p>
<p>In regard to posting the images here I am glad to do it but I'm not sure if I am allowed to post so many on this thread or if they have to go elsewhere. I don't have a subscription so they only allow me to post like 5 photos but if someone else can clarify if the big photos I have are all allowed on the thread I'll try and get them posted.</p>
<p>Thanks again for your kind words,<br>
Ken</p>
<p> </p>
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<p>I wanted to come back to this thread and let everyone know that a gentleman contacted me through eBay ( he didn't give me his name ) who had seen this thread ( but did not have an account here to reply ) and told me about a repairman in Germany who is able to repair these cameras.</p>
<p>He does offer a repair service for the Hasselblad 1600F and 1000F cameras.</p>
<p>His name is Paul Timmer and he lives in Kleve, Germany.</p>
<p>I contacted Mr. Timmer who is very nice and responsive and he told me the following in an email: "For the 1000F I offer a full service for a fixed price provided the shutter curtains are in good condition. A small amount of wrinkle is not serious and does not influence the cameras performance. The 1000F you have for sale has only seen moderate use."</p>
<p><br />He also let me know that he is able to repair all of the V series and told me, "anything from the early 1600F till the last 503CW is welcome. I also accept 2000 and 200 series bodies."</p>
<p>He then let me know that he gives the camera a full service which means the camera will be "completely stripped and all parts cleaned and checked, assembly with new original shutter spring assembly and shutter cords."</p>
<p>He gives a 12 months warranty on parts and labour. Return shipping at cost.</p>
<p>He said so far all serviced cameras are working without any problems.</p>
<p>He said, "please note there is no sensible alternative for cameras from this era<br />than a full service."</p>
<p><br />He said he carries a large selection of new original parts for 1600F and 1000F cameras.</p>
<p>You can contact me to get his information but I thought I better ask him permission to put any of his personal information here. I will come back and post it if he allows me to.</p>
<p>This is very good news if Mr.Timmer is good. He said he knows Mr.Knapman but did not clarify to me that Mr.Knapman has stopped working on these cameras. He only mentioned how busy he must be working on other cameras.</p>
<p>Does anyone else know Mr.Timmer? If so can you share with us how your experience went?</p>
<p>The 1000F I am selling will sell to the high bidder in about 3 hours from the time of this post so this is good news for the buyer. </p>
<p>Because this forum has been such a blessing to me....if anyone from this forum buys the camera I will give you free Express shipping anywhere in the world. Just let me know that you saw this post and I will do it. If you want to see the camera you simply need to enter the number 330545532586 at <a href="http://www.ebay.com">www.ebay.com</a>.</p>
<p> </p>
Hasselblad "Polaroid Backs": Which one to buy?
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