stewart_randall

<p>Hi Freya, I'm the founder of Folio Albums - thanks for your kind words btw. Just wondering where you're based? Perhaps we're nearby and I can show you a sample?</p>

<p> </p>

Hi Jospeh, this could be a colour profile issue? Do you shoot in Adobe98 or sRGB? The reason I ask is because OS X

can handle colour profiles across the operating system so images shot in Adobe98 will look crisp and colourful. Windows

XP (not sure about Vista) can not and only really support sRGB. If you therefor view an Adobe98 profiles images on a

Windows XP machine in say Inetrenet Explorer or through the OS, it will look subdued and weird.

I also notice that my images look brgihter on other peoples machines as they tend to (incorrectly) have the screen

brightness at 100%.

Hope this helps.

~S

Hi Michael, this could be a problem with the version of OSX and Lightroom that you are running and an issue with the

older print drivers from printer manufacturers.

Have a read of this...

http://blogs.adobe.com/lightroomjournal/2007/12/printing_on_leopard_with_light.html

Your issues may be solved with either of the following; wait until LR v2 (cups driver issue resoled), upgrade to the latest

printer drivers, export the images from lightroom and print from Photoshop.

Hope this helps,

I can't believe HP's solution is "try reprinting", "rotate image" or "increase print quality"!

Are they going to pay for the wasted ink and paper? I doubt it. It's clearly a driver issue

which I'd bet they are reluctant to resolve.... they are probably more interested in

having us upgrade to the latest and greatest model.

I have experienced this and I'm very disappointed with HP. As a professional

photographer I don't have time to continually reprint. It should be spot on first time.

Come on HP, fix the problem.

Does any one have, or has anyone used either of the following storage devices? I haven't heard of

the manufacturers before. Perhaps they are produced by someone else and rebranded. Anyone got

any insight in to these products?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Ex-Pro-Picture-Drive-Photo-Storage/dp/B000RF45KY

http://www.amazon.co.uk/TeckNet-OT101-Digimate-Speed-

Reader/dp/B000Q7RQTK/ref=pd_sbs_ce_title_3

Thanks.

I've found some old RAW files on a hard disk that I had forgotten about which was unfortunately edited in

Lightroom V1 BETA. The problem is I can't make use of the XMP files as I believe they are incompatible

with later versions.

Does anyone still have the Lightroom V1 DMG (Mac) download which they can send to me. I just need to

export them as high res JPGs and then I'm sorted.

Thanks,

~Stewart

Thanks Emre. I tried to get the icc profiles from Kodak but struggled to find them. Could you

send me the link to the Adorama page?

It's the Supra and Ultra that I'm interested in.

Does anyone know the white point (RGB values) for Kodak Endura paper?

I'd like to simulate the warm tone of prints on the paper using my inkjet. The paper I use is very white and

although I can easily create a warm tone in Photoshop, it would be nice to simulate the actual tone

produced by the Kodak photographic paper.

Thanks.

Thanks to everyone. Most helpful and interesting views.

Much appreciated.

It' time to upgrade my second camera but I can decide on which Canon will be the best replacement.

At weddings in the past I have carried a large camera bag which I have found to be too restrictive. The

plan for this year to gain a little more freedom when photographing weddings by carrying only the

essential equipment in the excellent Boda lens bag, whilst carrying my cameras on the shoulder.

I shot mainly with a Canon 5D but my second camera, the 20D is no showing it's age a little and with a

large number of shutter cycles it's time I replaced it. Question is with what.

My first thought was the 1D Mark III. It's a pro camera so is clearly built for the job - being tough and

durable. It has all the great features that I'm looking for which includes sensor cleaning and low noise at

high ISOs. But it's heavy - or is it?

Then I thought the 1Ds Mark III could be good as it's an investment in the future and will also give extra

detail for tight cropping if necessary. But it's very expensive and the large file sizes will increase my

storage requirements and will probably slow down the whole post production digital workflow.

My latest thought is with the Canon 40D. Sure, there will probably be guests at the wedding with the

same camera (which doesn't bother me), but it's light, fast and it also has many of the features included on

the bigger 1D brother - and it's much cheaper.

Does anyone have experience using either the 1D or 1Ds Mark III at weddings and can they comment on

the weight and suitability?

Does anyone use a 40D for wedding work and again can you comment on the weight and suitability?

Hi John,

I did something similar two years back - also leaving the IT industry. You want to give me a

call I'd be happy to share my experiences with you. Drop me an email and I'll send you my tel

number.

~Stewart

I can't comment on the LACIE, but I do own 2 x EIZO CE240W which are calibrated with an

Eye One and I have the say the quality and consistency is absolutely superb. I don't think

you would be disappointed.

Hope this helps.

Stewart

[Randall Photography - http://www.randallphotography.co.uk]

John, I'm not an expert in RAID, but here are some thoughts. I know that OS X can support

mirrored RAID out of the box, just go to Disk Utility to set it up. No need to purchase the

dedicated RAID card.

I have a similar set-up here and with regards to the backup, I use Intego's Personal Backup

X4 configured to automatically run a backup process when a specific external drive is

connected. I believe it can create bootable backup's, but it's worth checking. I currently

run a synchronise process.

Or try Queensberry

http://www.queensberry.com/

Awesome, job. Only minor point I would say is re Page17. Personally I would have given the

top two photos more punch with some extra contrast. Perhaps they are faded on purpose,

and/or perhaps contrasty images are just my preference. Either way I hope this was helpful.

Look forward to the next album.

Catherine. Hope you don't mind me using the forum... got no reply to my email :-(

Just loved your work so much I had to know how it is done so that I can try it myself :D

Anyhow, Wow, wow, wow... it all becomes clear. Thanks so much for the insight I love the

ingenuity. Just need to get myself an old kodak now!

Thanks again!

Ta. Does anyone know if there are some pre-built actions out there to download/buy?

Thanks.

Does anyone have an idea how Catherine achieves this effect?

http://catherinebuca.com/?showimage=49

http://catherinebuca.com/?showimage=41

Thanks.

Hi Kim, I use an R800 for my printeingr and have managed to get very accurate prints.

The critical issue is not trying to adjust the setting on the printer to correctly to match the

screen, but to get the settings correct so as to accurately print the colour profile of the

image. By trying to adjust settings on the printer to match the screen you are defeating

the object on the entire colour management system. I would suggest using your Spyder2

to calibrate both your PC and Mac. Once you have done this then your screen should be as

close as possible to presenting colours accurately. I suggest you work in either AdobeRGB

or SRGB when adjusting your images and then let Photoshop and the print driver perform

the CYMK conversion at the time of print. This is because the R800 uses more colours

than just CYMK and as such by working in CYMK you will not make maximum use of the

printer's capabilities.

One thing you didn't mention is which application on the Mac you are using to print the

images. I can tell you how I print from Photoshop, and then you can apply the same theory

to other apps. The key with printing accurate images is to ensure that colour management

is configured correctly. When printing from Photoshop go to print and then from "Color

Handling" choose "Photoshop manage colors". Now choose the profile for the destination

paper from the "Printer Profile" drop down box - for example I would choose "SPR800

Premium Glossy" if you are printing on Premium Glossy photo paper. If you can't see the

ICC printer profiles then the driver was not installed correctly. Next choose the rendering

intent - I typically use "Relative Colorimetric" or "Absolute Colorimetric" depending on the

type of image (another discussion) - try both. Once you have Photoshop configured the

next step is to configure the driver. Hit print to set up the printer. From the printer driver

dialogue choose "Print Settings" and then select the appropriate Media Type. Next, and

this is the most important step, choose "Color Management" and then select "Off" i.e. to

turn off colour management from within the driver... why?... because Photoshop is already

doing the colour management before the image is sent to the print driver and as such we

don't need it colour managed for a second time.

This should allow for accurate reproduction of the colour space of the image. Now all you

need to do is to ensure your monitor is accurately reproducing the colour space of the

working profile (e.g. sRGB) and you should get accurate colours from screen to printer. I

do.

I hope this helps. Any more questions just drop me a line.

Good luck.

Thanks guys, most useful. Going to reasearch these battery options a little more.

Cheers

Hey all,

I'm looking to purchase a Lowel Pro-light but was wondering if anyone can recommend a DC battery set-

up to allow maximum portability.

I'm looking for a battery system which is light and doesn't cost the earth - if such a thing exists. I'll be

using the light for still photography, so will only use for short periods and as such won't need hours upon

hours of charge.

Any recommendations?

Thanks in advance.

Hey Kevin, perhaps you misunderstood me. I don't believe I said that returning a refund

would *ensure* further cash from friends and family. It would be crazy to think this. All I

am saying, is that on occassion it may serve a photographer better in the long run to

return the deposit than to keep it. Yes, it all depends on how much the deposit is, which

market tier the photographer is working in, and the relationship they had/have with the

client. But IMHO good business should be founded upon good commen sense, business

acumen and solid contracts... and not sticking to the letter of the contract alone. Hope my

view doesn't offend

I think Vladimir had some valuable feedback about underhand clients, and this is surely

something to be wary of.