dcraton

All of the above answers and the same as your previous post.

 

Yes, and a big "amen" to the pages mentioned in the manual.

Just a question here to be helpful. Are you viewing your images on the LCD screen on the camera or one a

computer monitor? Secondly, when you say others are using the same camera, are they using your camera or their

own? i.e., how are you comparing photos: in camera or on various computer monitors?

 

May seem simple, but often what I see on the D300's LCD is very different than what I see on my computer display

monitors of which are color corrected. All to say, I get a much more accurate "picture" of the images on my

computer monitor than my LCD on the camera.

 

Nikon does a fairly good job for in camera processing as has been noted by upping to Vivid mode or customizing by

upping saturation. However, the digital darkroom and shooting RAW does give you optimal control over the shot

even to the point of isolating one color and increasing or decreasing it's levels as well as adjust many other

parameters.

 

But, I grew up in a darkroom. Now, my darkroom involves a very nice computer with two very nice display monitors

and video card. If you want to skip all that, take a day and shoot the same object with the same lens trying out

the various Picture Controls (p. 150 and following in your manual). Try it inside and outdoors.

 

There is no right or wrong here, just preferences of how you want to get good results.

 

Enjoy, it's a great camera.

I used it all day yesterday for a family portrait onsite outdoors and the lens performed well, but like was

stated, I had it stopped down varying from f/4 to f7 on a D300. However, I did bring along my 35mm/2. BTW, lens

worked great on my D200 except for UE (user error).

 

Pods rule.

 

Good luck, it's a great lens, but all lenses, there are compromises and imperfections. Sorry, no perfect world

and that what makes this so fun.

I think a more appropriate question, is what Nikon lens isn't so sharp. . .as has been mentioned, per tripod and f stop, all of mine perform well per application, except the 24-120mm which I ditched because it never was clean for me after trying three different models.

 

If you are aging, sharp ain't all that great if you get my wrinkly drift. . .

Alejandra, good question with a variety of answers. I tend to agree with Sp & Matt and I do shoot a lot of

portraits both group, couples, kids, solo, etc. I have a 35mm/2; 50mm/1.4; 85mm/1.8 all Nikon. I use them all

depending on what the application or situation demands.

 

I would keep them both for reasons mentioned above as you will find the lenses will give two distinct results.

When funds are available, per my experience, I would add an 85mm lens.

 

I have a family portrait tomorrow on site and will bring all three of the mentioned lenses in addition my

assistant will be using a Nikon 17-55mm/2.8 for candids and I will also pack a Sigma 10-20mm for sharp angle

shots of the kids.

 

Call me a glass (lens) addict, but again, the situation usually is the indicator of what lens to use rather than

specifying a lens without taking into account the context in which it is to be used.

 

Something you can do is a lens test: put your camera on a tripod about 10 feet from a well lit object. Shoot

the same object at the same f stops and shutter speeds and see how each lens "reacts." That way you can make a

decision that best fits your situation.

 

Just thoughts for you to consider.

Anne: congrats on your DSLR. ..and the only "naive" question is the one that goes unasked.

 

When I am on the job or out shooting serious, I shoot NEF because of the reasons listed above. When it's for fun or snapshots, I have settings in cam that are appropriate.

 

If you want free Nikon software for a viewer and converter to jpg as well as WB and exposure compensation, you can use View NX. You can get it here: http://support.nikontech.com/cgi-bin/nikonusa.cfg/php/enduser/std_adp.php?p_faqid=61#Anchor-1.

 

Jumping into the digital darkroom is another story, but great fun with a bit of a learning curve. There are many fine programs available for post production. You may want to search a bit on that.

 

Good luck and keep asking questions.

If you'd like a review, here is a good one: http://www.slrgear.com/reviews/showproduct.php/product/1221/cat/13.

 

I do have the 18-135mm and find it adequate for a walkabout lens. It's a toss up really, IMHO as each lens has its strong points and weakness. VR can be nice. Both are light lenses and would suffice for snapshot purposes.

 

There is not really that much difference between 105mm and 135mm, so you may want to opt for the VR.

 

Good luck.

Nikon does not make a fast zoom in the 24-150mm range. Wish they did. But if they did, I might tip the scales a bit. So, if you don't want to change lenses, you will probably need to get a VR lens. I have one and it works fine. It's the cheapest lens on my shelf and no real distortion problems.

 

Not to offend you, but many here have found the 24-120mm to be lacking. I went through 3 copies then finally returned the lens. However, I have a friend who has a great copy of that lens.

 

Not quite long enough on the far end, but the 16-85mm VR is a well built lens and is very sharp. You have a nice cam bod, you might want to drop a bit of dough and get a nicer lens. Or, find a nice copy of the 18-200mm VR II.

 

We all want that all in one zoom. Problem is: compromises.

 

Good hunting.

A second on Dave Bishop's comment. I have sweaty, oily skin by nature. I have found the Zeiss pre-moistened to work every time. Got mine at the Wal-Mart eye center. Because they are individually packaged, I keep then in my cam bags as well.

I think it all boils down (considering the same post yesterday) to what your budget is and which set of compromises you are willing to make. I agree with the D80 comment. But, I do have a D40 for my wife and a D40x as a backup cam for me that stays in my bag. They are still for sale at some dealers new and I got the D40x for 350.00 new. Sigma also has several affordable lenses now with motors in them that work fine in this budget range.

 

But, this is my business and we change out cam bods every 18 to 24 months.

 

The IQ, as noted, on the D40(x) is fine. Just get 10mp on the D40x. Battery life? I get plenty with mine. Much more than the D200s I had. We shoot D300s now.

 

Just thoughts to consider of how long you want to keep the camera and what you are using it for.

 

Good luck.

So, why the changes? What you have is a pretty nice set unless you just want to go FX which is not a bad idea.

 

IMAO, DX is fine and more than just tele use, with the right lenses and you have them. Two nice cams, several nice lenses. Personally, I'd spend money on glass as the IQ variances on most Nikons are indistinguishable notably via proper post.

 

Just a thought. BTW, I shoot a D300 and a D40x on the job all the time. D40x is a fun cam and serves as a backup. However, I have spent the money on glass.

 

Another avenue and opinion and that's all it is.

If you are stuck with just one lens and want a zoom, a sleeper is the Sigma 24-60mm/2.8. You can get them at a great price new from Cameta.

 

The biggest challenge is your budget and choosing how to spend your money within that range. You may consider the Nikon 18-55mm and 55-200mm pairing and throw in a bit more if you can and get the 50mm/1.8. It would at least get you started and be very near your budget.

 

If possible, when you get your D80, take it down to a camera shop and try out a few lenses to see what tickles your fancy.

 

Best of luck to you.

What Shun said. The great enemies of all electronics are heat, dust, and moisture. We were trying to be helpful in answering what you want via Pentax or D300 (I have the latter) simply does not exist via weather "proof." Neither in a lens unless you buy an underwater kit.

 

Some of the lenses in the Nikon line are better made, but all zoom lenses can potentially be a problem with moisture and dust due to moving parts. Primes as well.

 

We have not even discussed changing lenses. This was not so much an issue in the days of metal bodies and a mechanical camera. Now with a PCB, LCD, a sensor, lens contacts. . .you get the pic.

 

Hence the advice given to take care with your gear.

 

Good luck to you.

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This thread proves once again, there are many roads to get the job done. Since An has a zoom, I think that is why several of us recommended a tele with a TC since many other safari trips to that area allow for time out of the vehicle for long shots. Sunsets with animals grazing can be stunning. . .if you have the lens/TC to reach it.

 

However, if you are in vehicle, I would consider renting a nice superzoom as Chris mentioned.

 

Your trip should determine your lens choice. My last trip was 50/50 in and out of vehicle. I packed a zoom, a long tele, TC, and very light Manfrotto monopod in a pack. Oh, and some granola bars. Was so fun.

 

Most of all, have a great trip and enjoy!

The correct term from an engineering standpoint and practical application is "environmentally sealed." Not waterproof at all. Rather weather resistant. I live in a very humid, rainy, and moist climate. I use the AW series of LowePro bags and do carry raincoats and a towel as well when weather demands it or if I am shooting a waterfall.

 

Not to insult your intelligence, but never leave a moist cam or lens in a bag. Dry it off and put it on a shelf. A dehumidifier is a good thing as well to keep in whatever room you store your gear.

 

Good question.

Sorry, ask the seller. . do I need coffee or what?

Just ask the buyer if it is a floor demo, a customer return, or DOA. They will tell you most often. I have bought several bods and lenses from Cameta and B&H and each time I called concerning the status of the product and got an answer. In all three cases, the units have functioned as new and had warranties.

 

It does save you money and sometimes allows you to buy a bod without a kit lens.

Shun, true. Some photo safaris are shot from a vehicle. Others allow time out for long shots while stopped. Others are flown out to camps for walkabouts. Another part of our family does nothing but African Photo Photo Safaris every 6 weeks in a variety of settings.

 

An, yes you might want to rent. And pack a small tripod or monopod.

If you do get the 300/f4 (which I have and use often) AFD, I also might suggest the Kenko Teleplus Pro 300 2X TC. Sometimes you just aren't close enough, notably when shooting the less obvious smaller birds and other wildlife. Tripod for sure.

 

You can get a used 300/f4 AFD in great shape for not a whole lot of money.

 

That's the budget way to do it.

 

Have a great trip.

Thanks to all. Just got back in from a job out of town. I think I'll get the SB-600 and some type of brace for her wrist.

 

You all have been very kind.

Yes, I had the Stofen diffuser on the SB-400 and the flash simply is not powerful enough when shooting past 85 to 100mm IMHO.

 

I did try a very light flash bracket for her, and it did not work for her. Good suggestion as we all know how a bracket improves the obvious. Thanks Lex and sorry your are suffering from the same Arthur!

 

Just trying to take care of my number one assistant. Aging is not for sissies.

My wife shoots a D40 with an 18-135mm lens and does a great job. She often is my assistant on the job. She has

a small frame and does suffer with arthritis in her hands. Not old, just had "Arthur" as we call it. She loves

the cam and is a great photographer. We have a small photography/film/audio firm here in doing very well.

 

I have put D200s and above in her hands, and it just doesn't work per her condition and hand size. I do at times

put on the 17-55mm on her cam as well.

 

So, I tried the SB-400 and hated it.

 

Will the SB-600 or another lighter weight flash work for her?

 

I have an SB-800, but it is too bulky and top heavy for her.

 

Believe it or not, she has has been nationally published via her D40 and above mentioned lenses. I say that as I

am trying to accommodate her physical challenges as this is her second income and has her own client list.

 

Trying to be thorough here as this is a different need than just a "whut do I need" post.

 

Thanks in advance!

Shun: I need to take into account the amount of info you see here. My bad. Yes, some pros do abuse their gear. I have seen it for years on D1 college sporting events. Tossing a 5000 dollar cam bod and not telling how much invested in lenses around like a rag doll.

 

You do a great job here and I was not busting your chops. If you work for me and do not know your gear and the art of photography as well as take excellent care of your equipment, you won't last.

 

Michael Hogan. I know it seems crazy to use a D40x as a backup, but with the right flash and right lens, the IQ is virtually the same as the D300 I use. However, when shooting sports: http://www.davidcraton.com/skater/airborne.jpg, I am not sure I can get this with a D40x.

 

Peace and Shalom.

Shun, to clarify myself: all electronics are obsolete and disposable by the time they hit the sales shelf at the current rate of tech engineering. However, that does not make a photographer obsolete or disposable. I do work full time as a photographer and am always trying to balance keeping up with the Jones' and managing a very thriving business in the retail capitol of the world.

 

If one can afford it, duping a second cam with the same model is a great choice. If the budget doesn't allow, then there are the above options. We still use D200s, D80s.

 

I don't mind at all going between models, but I spend a ton of time with my gear and read here more than I post.

 

I am 50. I hope I am not obsolete. However, gear is to be enjoyed and used per each person's affinity and choice. But in shear tech terms, the gear is already being designed to be replaced by Nikon, Canon, and whomever by the time the marketing guys are writing pre-release "leaks". Not a bad thing as I still find joy in shooting that old decrepit, noisy D200.

 

Thus endeth the sermon.