milton-chris

<p>There's not much point in this thread anymore, as I don't have a picture of the camera. It was about 2x the size of my 40D with the motordrive attached. The lenses were fairly small, smaller than a Canon 50/1.8. The 3 lenses were built right into the flat front panel of the camera, as any lens is, not protruding on a platform of some kind, and it just looked like an oversize Canon with 3 lenses, not one.</p>

<p>Thanks anyway.</p>

<p>Daniel - it was a DSLR</p>

<p>no, not trolling. The lenses weren't clustered closely, like on a microscope head, probably an inch or so between each lens.</p>

<p>At the Indy race in Toronto recently, I saw guy with a Canon camera with 3 lenses on it, clustered in a triangle. The identifier on the camera was Canon 3-d but that is all I could read and then got distracted then he was gone. Can anyone illuminate me on this beast?<br>

Thanks</p>

<p>Thanks guys - I'm gonna send it in and see what the predicted cost is - may be the excuse needed to upgrade.</p>

<p>I fell in the river today, and my camera bounced off the rocks but remained dry. It seems to still take photo's just fine, but the rear display just shows up white with a few colour blotches in it - like a laptop monitor does when it is dying.<br>

Is the replacement of this display typically an expensive thing, compared to the cost of a new body?<br>

ps - The wifes first question when I phoned her and told her was 'is the camera okay?'. </p>

I'd have to say this is one where resellerratings.com is completely wrong. Absolutely massive chain, outstanding prices, love to price-match, staff are, in my experience, often more helpful than bestbuy. Never bought from them online; happy in-store shopper for at least 13 years - only one bad experience over warranty issue.

I have a UV filter on the lens.

 

I took some test shots, tripod mounted, and things look really good once I step down a bit. I also went and shot some more, stopped down to f8, and things look really, really good.

 

I was very close to the object in a few of my other shots and got plenty of CA, as well as soft focus all across the shots.

 

Thanks for all of your input; I'm going to write this one down as user error. I will, however, send the lens in to Sigma for a checkup, as it's covered by warranty. Can't hurt.

try again<div></div>

full image

The attached 2 shots show a problem that I noticed whilst shooting the other day. Shots were handheld, Av / Sigma

17-70 @ 70mm / 1:80 sec / ISO 100 / f4.5 / Center-point focus.

 

I noted this with every single shot of 22 I shot that day. Focus-point was on the central part of the bloom that is the

most out-of-focus. I noticed the problem occuring in shots the next day, which were tripod shot using 2-sec. delayed

shoot.

 

Is this a case for using the newspaper-on-the-wall test?

 

TIA<div></div>

Sigma 500/f2.8. If it's BIG Brother who descrres this, then I wana be able to get all the spy shots I want. Can always use the foot-zoom.

Back in the earlt '90's, when Kodak first introduced the DC50 for about $2500 Cdn. As a Realtor, it was so much cheaper to buy it than keep spending fortunes on one-hour printing when needing 10-20 copies of each picture.

Adam - that's one of the reasons I chose to go with drobo and it's 4-drive capacity. 3 drives can fail and your data is still safe. I'm using the drobo at home, where I keep all of my archived work stuff as well as all personal data..

 

For my office, I'm going to get one of the networkable devices, and then I'll set up an automatic ftp of the day's backups so they come to my home device. No such thing as too much backup.

 

OP - one thing to think of too is making sure you get a USB device, as opposed to a firewire, if you use laptops as your primary computers. I have many firewire external devices, but didn't think of it when I bought my latest batch of laptops, and not one of them has a firewire port.

There are a number of options to have either a RAID or 'beyondRaid set-up that will alleviate some fears. RAID devices from linksys and d-link are available for coupla hundred bucks. They work on your network, hold 2 drives, have built-in ftp server and cost around $200 Cdn. The drives to insert in them cost depending on size - right now, tigerdirect has 1 Tb drives (Seagate Barracuda) on sale for $129 each.

 

A different setup in the http://drobo.com device, which hods up to 4 drives. Bit higher cost, not a network device, easier to set up.

 

Third option is to buy a case and a drive separately. You could then have a 1 Tb external device for under $160 Cdn. if buying from tigerdirect.

 

As to brands - for externals that come pre-packaged, I have had great success with The Book and Maxtor One-Touch. I have 3 'Book's' full with 15 years of work files, photo's etc. right now, hence my move to drobo. Seems to me that you pay a slight premium for The Book, but only $15 or so.

 

HTH

I never see the pros at the rep and house league kids games having strobes set up, etc. They just use lenses like 300/2.8, 3200 ISO, and fire away. I use my 120-300/2.8 or my 70-200/2.8, 1600 or 3200 ISO, shoot raw, and fix what needs it.

 

 

Do you REALLY need the strobes set-up?

I don't go to many weddings, however, the last one I went to, after a while, I noticed the pro was following what I was shooting, coming in to take candids after I had just taken the shot. Thing is, they were no longer candid and didn't have the same look to them.

 

Pro was life-long friend of bride; I m hubby of sister of bride's best friend. Pro came and thanked me after for getting some of the shots and for staying out of her way.

 

't was great - no ego's in the way.

I am not aware of g-tech, and am waiting for my drobo to arrive, so I have no direct experience to share.

 

In my research phase, I also looked at both the linksys and d-link units that perform a similar function. I actually

chose the drobo because I wouldn't have to set up the raid system. Also, the d-link and linksys only take 2 drives.

 

Also, I have many friends in USA who have had drobo for a while and think it is the cat's meow.

 

However, depending on your application, you might like the d-link or linksys because of their ability to be plugged

into a network and run independently of any computer. Also, they both have built-in ftp server, which is useful in

many situations.

 

I plan on setting my home computer as an ftp server and my work desktop as a client, so I can move copies of my

backups automatically from office to home.

 

My desktop has a 3-drive raid system, and when the controller failed, my teach guy just changed out some parts and

life wnet merrily along with no data loss. Don't know how or what he did.

 

BTW, in Canada at least, the drobo is currently available for $349 and tigerdirect has 1Tb Seagate Baracuda drives

on for $129 each. I actually bought 7 of the drives, to swap out those in my desktop too.

 

HTH

I actually found that I got great shots with my 70-200/2.8 one year, and then this year, got entirely different shots with my 17-70 Sigma. A lot depends on what sort of fireworks pics you want - clear shots of what the eye sees, or distortions that show the trails in the sky. They require different techniques.

 

If you want lots more info, there's been quite a few discussions on the topic over the last 18 months.

Just search for shooting fireworks.

 

 

HTH

It would be exceptionally tempting to cancel the credit card transaction, just to teach the person a lesson. Who cares if he eventually gets to keep the $$; just make him miserable.

I love my Sigma 17-70, and it lives on my 40D unless I want the wide of the 10-20 or the speed of the 85/1.8. A bit of vibrance and clarity in ACR, a bit of capture sharpening and it's excellent results. I own no L lenses, so can't really compare.

Dan - the resale value of your XTi is so low (prolly around $200 - $300) that you might as well keep it as a backup / second lens. Keep 10-22 on it. Just remember to take it out and use it, or you'll forget how to as the controls are so different.

 

HTH

Thanks folks. My local store has the Sigma 30/1.4 and the Canon 28/1.8 in stock, so I'm going to try both of those. Christopher - thanks for that tip about trying AV to see what settings it wants to use.

ooops - this is a crop, in case that isn't painfully obvious.

Searching didn't reveal the answer, so here goes . . .

My son is playing highschool volleyball, so today I went to shoot some of his games. 40D and 50/1.8. As the

attached shot, at 400 ISO / f2 shows, lighting at his home court will not be a problem. What is a problem is the size

of the gym. This shot was taken from as far back as I could get, and shows that 50mm is too long. Also, the focus

on the lens is brutally slow for sports. So, what might be my best option - a fast, wide prime? Might the 17-50/2.8 be

okay in this lighting? If a fast, wide prime, some suggestions please.

 

No exposure or other lighting fixes on this shot - a bit of saturation, vibrance and some capture sharpening.<div></div>