carlwakefield

<p>I have used mine with Pocket wizard on hot shoe and elinchrom equipment strobes no problems. But never tried syncronizing over 1/125th maybe there is a problem with the message getting to lights quick enough at 1/400th will have to try?</p>

<p>I just picked up a roll of film from development and will be scanning this evening. Shot it with my Canon AE1 and 135mm ssc 2.5 lens I love the camera. Its a great compact, combination for shooting portraits I have only had it since two years but the whole package costed under sfr 200 you can't beat that for value for money. Looks and works like new. I got it as I love that focal length for portraits and did not want to fork out for the modern EF version. I also have a 35mm ssc 2.0 for it. Its a great walk about camera with the 35mm lens.</p>

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<p>Patricia I would wait until you can afford what you really need. Not have to buy twice. On the 50D the efs 60mm macro does some great shots. Do a search on Jim Hoffman his portfolio has great shots with a 350D and 60mm efs lens. The 100mm 2.8 is a cracker and the old none IS version is worth every penny fallen in price since the new one is out. The extra length on a crop body makes it very nice I just shot two flys with this take a look in macro folder. price wise I would wait and get the canon 100mm 2.8 where I am it running at half the price it was two years ago.</p>

<p>Patricia I would wait until you can afford what you really need. Not have to buy twice. On the 50D the efs 60mm macro does some great shots. Do a search on Jim Hoffman his portfolio has great shots with a 350D and 60mm efs lens. The 100mm 2.8 is a cracker and the old none IS version is worth every penny fallen in price since the new one is out. The extra length on a crop body makes it very nice I just shot two flys with this take a look in macro folder. price wise I would wait and get the canon 100mm 2.8 where I am it running at half the price it was two years ago.</p>

<p>Jen for what you describe I would also take a look at the following plugin. Portraiture from imagenomic.com. I think this does a better job than efex but you it pays to clean up first with the healing brush but does a good job without. For sure hand work is best but for a plugin I think this is the best I have seen.</p>

<p>I would keep it. You can have the advantage of having a lens on the 5D and will have to change lenses less often, no dust problems. One 5D with a wide angle, the other 5D with tele or prime. Be honest look at some top photographers portfolios who shoot 5D and now have 5DMKII you will never tell the which camera took what. For sure when you need high ISO or larger print. Both have there place. Keep the old one and get the new one. 12mps is also an advantage sometimes. 21mp also. You can choose which you need.</p>

<p>I have a 17-40mm f/4L which permits me to take semi-wide shots on my 7D, but I sometimes miss that extra wideness I can achieve on a full frame (which would be solved by buying the 17-55 f/2.8 IS)<br>

I don't understand the above comment Erwin. Both are 17mm at the wide end and there for the same?</p>

<p>OK Guys I have to say I could not resist buying for that price.<br>

Yes you were right I never received the camera and I have had to fight with the company and get legal help from the credit card company and have finally now got my money back. It was to good to be true.<br>

Regards Carl</p>

<p>I am highly happy with my Mamiya RZ67 with a 65mm for wide angle and 140mm macro for detailed shots and portraits. There are some good deals second had. But don't under estimate the costs of development and scanning. I must say I use the tripod not sure its good for hand holding. Also not light. Saying that an RZ67 and single lens in a bag. Is not more weight than carrying a 5D with a collection of three L zooms. But if the budget is tight you might reconsider and be better advised to go digital it will be considerably cheaper long term. But I use both and love the Mamiya. I have not had a Hasselblad but from weight and size it would be a better choice. Happy shooting.</p>

<p>Boris I usally do the same routine.<br />1. take an incedent reading with the meter facing the sun. My ground reading.<br />2. spot meter the foreground.<br />3. Spot meter the bright area of the sky.<br />I count the light stops between sky and foreground. If there are more then 3 stops you need to decided what you want. Good foreground moving to no detail in the sky or Perfect sky and losing details in the shadows.<br />I sometimes use the Graduated ND grads to reduce the difference to get a balance in so all is inside 3 stops. You could also shoot serveral shots and merge. I preffer ND grads.<br />If you look at the shadows and they are hard. its sunny F16 rule which is ISO 100 1/125th sec and F16 this is very reliable.<br />You can spot messure the brightest part of the sky and drop you exsposure by 2stops this works well. Your sky is good and if the range is two large you lose details in the shadows. If you shoot the scene in Manual then shot just shoot a couple more one a shot one stop up and one stop down. <br />Regards Carl</p>

<p>For me the decission is on the focal length. If you want a equal POV as 16-35 get the 10-22 I don't think IQ is an issue. If you want want the happy with 27 - 64mm then the 17-40 is a super lens. But I would go for the 10-22 its and excellent lens.</p>

<p>Hi Naveen the black background comes from the light fall off. Let me try and explain. If you set you camera in manual and ISO 100 1/125th second and F16 put the fruit on a surface with an open ended background say 2 or 3 meters and camera in normal low light evening interior situaton and shoot the friut. You will probably get a black picture. That being the case you need to get you light on the fruit and move it as close as possible and set the power so the exsposure is perfect for the camera settings and not the other way around. Now shoot the picture. All should be black appart from the area lighted by your blitz. (best off camera). Now the question is how far the light goes. The rule is here the closer the light the quicker the fall off. The futher the light is from the friut the longer after the light is effective. That should be a good place for you to start. Look maybe you see with these to shots what I mean. shot one I have backed off to shoot the whole scene. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/10227929">http://www.photo.net/photo/10227929</a> and now shot two is the framed shot of the flower alone. <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/10227950">http://www.photo.net/photo/10227950</a> in my example I have a hidden light throwing a touch of light on the background or it would be totaly black.</p>

<p>Victor I don't understand the comment the Coolscan LS 9000 not cutting it. I think this is the top end of the market, have one myself and it is a dream. The only problem I see is its way over budget. But if you get the chance to buy one second hand for a good price, get it you will not be dissappointed. Just note for MF scans you need the glass holder. But for scanning 35mm you have no advantage over the LS 5000 but you can scan both 35mm and MF with a 9000. But the examples with V500 look great you problably just need to spend more time getting the result. Depends on your scanning volume.</p>

<p>I would agree with Scott and Jeff. I would take the 24-70 first as I find you need more often to go wider. You can always move in closer. I think with studio if you have not got a lot or room appeture is not the issue, if you shoot a couple with F8 head and shoulder you will be tight on the DOF getting both head and four eyes sharp. Also if you lights are on bottom power you will will not be able to open up more. If your looking for soft lights you will want the lights in quiet close or you will not have room to move them very far away. The 70-200 is for sure a winner its focal lenghts. I personally have shot the 50mm 1.4 and 24-70 at 50mm and I can not tell the prints appart when I feel all was perfect. I would recommend buying the 5DII and 24-70 in a bundle as only then will really save bucks. But you have to go with your gut feeling. If I only had one lens it would be the 24-70 2.8 L. But I am glad to have more.</p>

<p>JDM I agree and would also feel that way but these swiss companies have been around for years are well known. The next week will tell if more do the same. I think it indicates a new body from Canon will be released. The price drop is since two days so its new. Somebody must know about this. Let wait and see.</p>

<p>There are three sites in Switzeland offering this.<br>

<a href="http://www.toppreise.ch/prod_121505.html">http://www.toppreise.ch/prod_121505.html</a> <br>

They can not all be scams. The only problem will between order date and delivery. But I am sure its no scam.</p>

<p>I just saw the online discount price for the CANON EOS 1Ds Mark III Body fell from 8000 sfr to 4300. Does that mean canon is just about to release a new model. What other reason could there be with just a massive price drop? Any body heard anything.</p>

<p>Hello Alex many thanks for posting your tests, that is great. I must say the last lighting pattern is the one I preffer best. I have some lights and reflectors and have spent time testing but lack the model and time I also need a niky she is really a great model must look where I can get one here in Switzerland best regards Carl</p>

<p>I would only add the following. If you choose to go digital I would advise a DSLR and not a compact G10 or G11 I have both and even thought the G10 can shoot good pictures for me its not a comparision to a film or DSLR. I would choose a canon 450D with kit lens or Nikon eqivelent. The D90 is for me a super compact DSLR or what ever model would for me be the alternative choice. I would not take a G10 or G11 unless its really high quality snap shots in perfect light.</p>

<p>Erwin - I have both and I would suggest you go with the 85 1.8 it great for head shots. Its a great lens. Don't worry I know its not expensive but its great. I love it on full format and also on crop. On crop you can close it down and because of the long working distance you have a very good DOF. I think the 100 macro 2.8 is great lens as well but to sharp for flattering portraits. I love that 85 1.8 lens it produces winning shots time after time. Here is an example shot over garden table in evening light. would guess 2.2 <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/8045834">http://www.photo.net/photo/8045834</a> You will not make a mistake with the 85 1.8 regards Carl</p>

<p>Keith, I like to have the camera in a toploading bag on my hip so it does not swing around I can move half behind for walking and hand the camera around my neck if it ready to be used. To have some extra lenses I would put them in separate lens bags and then in a normal small rucksack. I have three size hip bags depending on how long the lens I have fited at day start. If I am really trekking I have a large lower pro trekking ruck sack. I think the side loaders sound good but are not really good in practice. I bet you buy at least four bags anyway so just start off with you feel good with, you will try something different later for sure. Regards.</p>

<p>Bob those are really inspiring pictures of your models. the shot from the interior is fantastic. Scott your shot of the tank is also perfect. I think the G10 is not the best solution I have one and also 50D and 30D I think i would look at a solution with a different lense on the D700 and then also as suggested just backup and crop.</p>

<p>Troy are you sure the lens is cocked. You need to remove it and cock it manualy move the pins to manualy cock it. It possibly the problem. This can happen. Otherwise make sure the darkside plate is removed and the orange switch is set correctly. Put the mode to M for multiple exsposure with magazine without film in it. It will not shoot test shot without film if you do not put it in M. Regards Carl</p>

<p>Hello Mick, I have not a lot of experiance but started with MF myself two years ago, I choose a Mamiya RZ67 and am very happy with it. I had starting problems as I had light leaks on the magazines and had to get the seals replaced. But picked up the camera with a 65mm and 140mm lens for sfr 1000. I can recommend the RZ67 camera if you get along with the weight and size. The costs that you need to consider are the scanning I purchased a nikon 9000 ED and need an additional glass holder as only then will you be happy with the results. Here are some example scans resized to 1500 px on the long side. <a href="http://www.pbase.com/cwakefield/mamiya_rb67_scans">http://www.pbase.com/cwakefield/mamiya_rb67_scans</a> I think as long as the camera is in good working order most MF systems are OK. Lets see what other advise you get. But I am really happy with MF photography its very positive for its quality and very interesting for the DOF which different to 35mm. I like composing the shots on a tripod with waist level view finder and love the results. Regards Carl</p>