boris_krivoruk2

I posted similar question to Canon (combination of Mamyia 7 and Canon 430EZ) and they advised me strongly against using Canon flashes on non-Canon cameras, indicating that I can burn both camera and flash.

I was the one who originated one of the last threads on B1 when its movement became too stiff and jerky. I sent it to Arca, they sent it to France and I got back a new head. I used it few times and so far it works. It functions better then the previous one when the previous was new. So far so good. By the way, I live in the US.

Just realized I made an error in my last message. I don't double development time in used developer, I increase it by 50%. Development in fresh developer is 1 min, in used 1min 30sec.

That's what I do: I use RA-4 one-shot. But I don't discard it. Once I am done with fresh developer, I double development time and use the same developer second time. Although I don't store used developer for more than couple of hours. I run a test prior to switching to used developer, but it's pretty consistent.

There is a new BW Kodak Portra film that uses C41. Would be

interesting to try. Moreover, there is new Kodak RA-4 BW paper.

Wow, what a response. I wish I heard all these opinions before I decided to buy B1. I'd rather own a piece of "agrucultural equipment" like Bogen as somebody mentioned, then this piece of expensive precision junk. After all, what would you prefer to drive - a tractor that works, or BMW that does not. When I photogrpaph, I think about the photographs I take, not about my equipment, even less about the ballhead. All these mentions of vibrations, dust, water etc... Is this what, a crystal vase? My bogens, benbos, cullmans served under all these conditions for over 10 years. Yes, they are not as stable. But they work. And their movements are far smoother than B1, even when B1 was out of store. Well, I am willing to give it another chance. I sent B1 to Arca to fix or replace. There will be a followup, I will let people know.

I just bought Arca Swiss B1 and used it three times in winter. There

was no dust. It quit working. It jams. I did what is being advised -

wiped a ball with alchocol. It helped for half an hour, then it

locked itself again. Does anybody knows whether there is a way to

avoid it?

I used Arca Swiss only three times in winter. No dirt. It just got wet every time I used it. If does jam. Also, even when i just bought it, its movements were too stiff. It's an expensive piece of garbage. The cheap Bogens are better. Does anybody know whether there is a was to maintain it?

There is a good article in Photo Techniques on test of new

Delta400/DDX. It's indicated that it gives speed of 800.

Russian paper? It's not really black and white. It's gray, there is

no blacks, no whites. Garbage. I'd lived there and tried to print for

over 10 years. Just forget it.

I sent them e-mail saying their site was way too slow to used. Their reply was - they consider it to be normal. Plus, they stopped shipping liquid chemicals which compelled to to switch to Adorama.

Cullman Magic 2 is junk. Zero stabiulity, even less reliablity. It broke on my first trip. Locks don't work.

Steve, CPP is not mechanically better. All it has extra is cold

solenoid and digital builtin thermometer to control temperature.

John, may be this is a combination of film/camera. But not only Fuji, I have Mamyia M7II and have had this problem more than once.

The issue with loosely wound film was discussed on Mamyia forum. I have a suggestion: whoever think there is a problem with Ilford spools, please e-mail to Ilford, may be they will change spools.

I often have had this problem with Ilford. The problem is Ilford's spool. I tried using its spools with other films, and had loose wind with fogged edges. I also tried Ilford films with Fuji or Kodak spools with no problems. I e-mailed Ilford without a response. Cure - ether have tension when you load a film, or have a stock of Fuji or Kodak spools and use them.

Lanier, my Canon 430m EZ flash does not even fit into M7II flash shoe. I also e-mail Canon asking them whether I can use this flash on M7, and they warned me against doing it, saying it can burn both M7's and flash's electronics.

I've been using 430EZ for about 10 years on various Canon bodies -

EOS 630, A2, Rebel. Never I had any problems. You will have higher

chance of wrongly exposed photos with non-dedicated flashes if you

don't really know how to use them. It could be a lab.

I have regularly experienced loosely wound film with Mamiya M7II using Ilford spools. I tried various combinations of spools/films and found that whatever film was, there was no problems with Kodak or Fuji spools, but once I used Ilford spools, it created this problem with any film. I wrote to Ilford and got no response. There are two solutions: carry several of Fuji or Kodak spools and use them. If this is not possible, then when loading film, keep it really really tight, it does help. When I remember to do it, then this problems almost never happens. It's just using different films I often forget to do it when I go back to Ilford.

Do not pre-soak if you develop in Xtol.

I shoot both 35mm and 6x7 in color. 11x14 on 6x7 has the same tonal look as 5x7 on 35mm. The same is about resolution

Just try to work with Gitzo locks in winter - I've spent ours cursing that idiot who did not bother to test them in winter conditions. I almost froze my fingers, becasus they simply don't work in winter.

I've been using Benbo for about 10 years. I've also been using Gitzo and Cullman. I do landscapes mostly. I disagree that it takes longer to set Benbo tripod. It is faster. It works in extreme cold, rain, snow. It's more stable than most of others. What makes it so stable - it's leg could be spread wider, but not extremely wide, than other tripods'. Also it's locks are great. Try to operate Gitzo's lock in winter - you will curse it.

I have owned 430EZ gray market for 9-10 years, it works fine.