throbinson

<p>Well ... seems the batteries win, I'll check online and see if I can find a place that does combined shipping on eBay, maybe get the XSi batteries at the same time.</p>

<p>As for the used cameras... as low as $1950? Man if I had $1950 I'd just get the 50D new. :) But I know what you mean, used or even refurbished has some good deals but, I have 0 luck for used electronics online, so, I would rather get something new with warranty where I can just drive to the store and let them deal with it. :)<br>

I looked for used in a store, but, no luck in this area (smaller town in Ontario).</p>

<p>I dunno still... I mean I understand that batteries although rechargeable only recharge so often, and have a shelf life, but, again all 3 batteries went belly up the same day, 2 a year old one one 5yrs old. The 5yr old battery I can see... but the other two which rarely get used... that's where I have to wonder.</p>

<p>I'm a student (34yrs old but student again) so, buying extra batteries is a bit pricey. Even the eBay ones to find out it's not the issue. That's why I wondered if anyone had this issue as well and it wasn't the batteries.</p>

<p>Downside is, I'm looking to get the XSi body within a few weeks. Originally the 50D but, bills and a few car issues later, looks like the XSi will have to suffice. Still much better, double the megapixels, newer generation digic, etc... anyway, point is... buying and of course uses a different battery and memory card. Debated selling the 300D but... I don't want to stiff someone with a bad camera if indeed not a battery issue.</p>

<p>Oh, as for the 4GB memory... was on sale for $15 so bought it, too cheap not to. Figured when I got the 50D and shoot RAW it would be a good card to have.But agreed... 4GB would be overkill on a 6.3mp camera otherwise, the 2GB always worked fine. Plus, putting all your eggs in one basket for a shoot is never a good idea in case the card dies... I have a 2GB main card, a pair of 512Mb and an old 256Mb as well. Never ran out of space yet.</p>

<p>That being said, the 4GB in the 300D <strong>really</strong> acted weird. The batteries showed as dead just leaving the camera on for 5-10min without use. It was much much worse than what the camera is now doing. I used my friends XT instead. The very few shots I got with my 300D vs the ones with the older Rebel XT, wow... big difference in quality hence the wanted upgrade. I graduate soon so looking for something to use for myself and work (Graphic Designer) so hoped the 50D but, likely the XSi will do the job fine. Too bad the body is so small.</p>

<p>Well, the 1 battery is older, original battery. I bought the camera used 1yr ago and bought the 2 extra batteries then. That being said, I barely ever use 2 of the batteries because I'm more a casual shooter, (use the original one, go home and charge it when done and put it back in) which is why I was thinking more a camera fault than older batteries needing replaced, plus all 3 batteries started acting up at the same time.</p>

<p>Also, should have mentioned... a "dead" battery when I stick it into the charger within 10min shows fully charged. The light indicator on the charger also shows more than half charged when the camera indicated dead and shut itself off.</p>

<p>As for the total discharge, it's rare I shoot long enough to totally discharge a battery and I charge them as soon as I am home again. Which is good since I didn't know about what BOB PRAGNELL said in his message. I only purposely discharged them fully to sort out the issue.</p>

<p>Problem is everyone I know uses the XT or Nikons, so can't trade batteries for a day and test that way. Was wondering if it was just a common issue with this camera when it's near the end of its life or something.</p>

<p>I have a Canon Rebel (or 300D if in the USA) and lately it's been having some issues with batteries.</p>

<p>I have 3 batteries, a Canon and 2 generic batteries. All 3 fully charged, yet, after 2-3 shots the indicator goes right down to 1/2 power showing. The other day I went to shoot, batteries were all fully charged, I managed to shoot about an hour on the one generic battery, then it died, I put the next battery in and said it was dead right away, then tried the 3rd battery which lasted 15min and then died as well.</p>

<p>I had this problem before when I stuck in a 4GB memory card, the camera didn't like it at all, so figured maybe the camera wasn't designed to handle 4GB or just disliked that make. So I went back to my 2GB Sandisk Extreme III card which for almost 2yrs has been fine.</p>

<p>That being said, the camera has acted weird with power ever since I tried the 4GB card which may be the cause or coincidence.</p>

<p>So, so far what I have done was, drained each battery fully having it in the camera and the auto-shutoff disabled on the camera, just let it sit and die. Then I charged each battery up using a different charger in case the charger was at fault, then drained the batteries again then fully charged them all.</p>

<p>I went to my camera, turned it on, took 3 shots and 1/2 power showing again.</p>

<p>Camera settings are fully cleared/reset before ever shoot. No hack firmware installed either. Any ideas?</p>

<p>Thanks</p>

Wow, thanks for all the replies... will have to re-read through a few times.

 

I may go for the 50D kit with the EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 IS USM Lens, pretty cheap to buy it with the kit rather than on it's own, plus image stabilizer as well can't hurt. I like the compression difference I've seen with photos online where the take the same image twice one with 35mm and another 80mm (lens' very) but I will miss the DoF of a faster lens like I get with my 50mm f/1.8 which I'll say has been a good purchase so far... maybe when I learn more and start shooting for money one day I can warrant 'pro' lenses.

 

I will definitely give this another read though, some terms I'll have to look up and read about, especially the whole "Your 50mm lens is effectively an 80mm lens when you calculate in the 1.6X conversion factor of your 300D" posting... I've heard of that stuff before but never read enough to wrap my head around it. :)

Canon Zoom W/A-Telephoto EF 28-135mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Image Stabilizer USM AF Lens - $410

 

This would also be on the list due to the stabilizer... not sure if worth it. I planned to buy the Canon 50D w/28-135mm lens. Assuming this is a different lens though.

 

This would be the max I could go and would have to buy it when I get the 50D in Spring without the lens that comes with it, body only. Downside, is it's spring.

Not sure if 'the best' but I have these two at home and found them both to be very useful.

 

 

http://www.amazon.ca/John-Hedgecoes-New-Manual-Photography/dp/0789496372/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1224604532&sr=8-3

 

http://www.amazon.ca/Digital-Photography-Book-Scott-Kelby/dp/032147404X/ref=pd_sim_b?ie=UTF8&qid=1224604532&sr=8-3

I am looking at a lens for doing some portraits with so, from what I have read something near the 80mm range is

desireable.

 

That being said I am looking at 3-4 lenses and well, when I see some lenses listed as telephoto, some wide angle,

etc, I am worried I may grab the wrong one.

 

I currently have a Canon 300D 6.3MP camera and upgrading in about 4 months to the Canon 50D which should prove to

be a decent upgrade. I have a 50mm f/1.8, the stock 18-55mm, and a 75-300mm lens (all Canon).

 

I am looking at

 

1) Sigma Zoom W/A-Telephoto 28-70mm f/2.8-4 Compact High Speed Zoom AF Lens - $150

2) Canon Zoom Wide Angle-Telephoto EF 24-85mm f/3.5-4.5 USM Autofocus Lens - $320

3) Canon EF 28-90mm f/4-5.6 III AF Lens - Black - $100

4) Canon 85mm f/1.8 USM Autofocus Lens - $355

 

Rough pricing from online, USA store.

 

Now... before people start saying "buy this instead" and linking me to $900 lenses... I am a student on a very

tight budget. That's why I included a SIGMA in my list of potentials. In order to get the most use of a lens I am

thinking the 85mm will not allow for me as many options as something with a zoom option. I would like to buy

better equipment, but that will have to wait another year.

 

So, the Wide Angle, does that really only apply when down at 28mm not 85mm? Although doesn't go to 85mm, the

SIGMA seems faster and I could care less about motor noise while focusing. Also, polarizing filters... does the

end of these lenses rotate while focusing?

 

Sorry for all the questions, just have to buy a lens and regret it, especially if the SIGMA will work basically

as well as the Canon for half the cost.

 

Oh, would be doing models, full body and classic portraits, in a small studio (ie living room) and outside.

 

Thanks

Thanks for the info... saw a few posts on google saying the same but wanted to get the Photo.net opinion as well... happy to finally have a decent prime and didn't want to have to send it back already. :)

My main concern dust wise, was that 1 spec seems pretty big... well, guess I'll see what the CS says... had a few issues with my order.

Ah card says USA/CAN on it....

 

And I wondered about the spec... cheap lens but new so was suprised to see it... wasn't sure if would affect the image or not... took a few shots but, someone with a keener eye may see what I don't.

I just bought this lens from B+H Photo and it arrived today... sadly had 1

possible 2 issues... first is I can see specs of dust inside the glass that

can't be cleaned so, naturally annoyed and emailed customer service.

 

That aside... on their site the had two lenses, the same specs, execpt one is

listed as Imported and the other USA, and the USA one was about $5 more.

 

I went with the USA lens.

 

I was putting the new lens back into the box and noticed the box says under the

flap "For China Only".... does this mean it's not the USA lens? Is there a way

to look at the lens itself and tell which it is?

I was thinking of getting a grey card... though you mentioned setting custom white balance with it, I always thought you did that with something white, no?

 

From my above example, I was using constant lights, plus, strobes... thats why I was using the LCD because I don't know how to use the histogram yet... actually after reading a few articles on it I'm still not overly sure how. :) Think I need to find a few better articles.

 

Light wise, I have a pair of fluorescent 55w 5000k photo bulbs, 250w equivalent. I had a pair of umbrellas, but diffused the lighting too much so just ordered off eBay this week a pair of 10" Aluminum reflector pots. Should help with a harder light source since I'm a fan of the harsher shadows.

 

RAW vs JPG wise... I shoot RAW for still lifes, but anything where its people or oudoors I tend to shoot JPG more often just because after doing a few shots I have to wait for the memory card to write... it's a Sandisk Extreme III 2GB so a pretty fast card, but I hate when I go to take a shot and its still flashing away.

 

RAW converter... hmm, I use Photoshop CS3 for everything, and I have a MAC and PC... though, then again those shots were JPG so I guess not the issue... hmm, well, I am going to read more on the Histograms, and yes a grey card was next on my list because well... those light meters are WAY more $ than they should be... seriously... my iPod has more features and costs less. :)

I'll def check out that link... and ya that 1.2 lens is a no go for sure. :) For that much, I'd rather a new camera than the lens. :)

Thanks for the help/link... I'll go read up on Histograms.

 

I'm still going to keep an eye on that LCD issue... again I know it's not accurate, but, it's never been THAT off. Like I said... I have no flash meter so couldn't really set the exposure like I normally would, just took test shots until the LCD showed a decent looking pic... but wow... very off. :)

I was looking into buying new lenses, 50mm and 85mm... then wondered, how about

a $25 FD->EF adapter, then buy used FD lenses off eBay?

 

Just wondered, any noticeable quality difference? I know I'd lose Auto Focus...

but... might also save me some cash while I'm still in school.

 

Oh... I have a Canon 300D DSLR

Well, like I said, no flash meter... hence the LCD... I'm still learning how to read that histogram thing.

 

But... for example #2... I know the LCD isn't overly accurate, but, looked way way better than the image when on the computer, that's what confused me totally.... I could see a bit darker/lighter than the LCD but as you can see... very unusable shot on this one. He's East Indian so was expecting him to be dark, but... bit too dark.

 

Well.. I will look into histograms more to figure that stuff out and give it another try... hoping the strobes aren't firing too late... if they are is there a way to compensate for that without letting too much light in?

Ah, tried on 2 computers, MAC and PC as well as used the same computers to check older photos I took to see if they looked darker.

 

Hmm... I have a few from that shoot where they were fine on the LCD but not the computer by a long shot. Was using strobes though with 2 lights aimed at the subject (250w equivalent 5000k). I don't have the budget yet for a flash meter, so took about 12 practice shots which is why I was zooming in on the LCD to check exposure... but didn't post it because the exif data would probably look 'off' as a result.

 

The image I attached, for direct sunlight at noon, seemed grey and flat for sure. As I mentioned, I do a full camera reset before every shoot and format the memory card as well... just doesn't seem 'right' the way it looks.

 

... the HDR I created looks pretty darn good but... thats another thing. :)<div></div>

Ok... the photo, as you can see, done at about noon, and not a single cloud in the sky. I was doing (in this case) HDR shots for practice because just learned about them. 3 shots, 1 under, 1 over and this one which should be right in the middle.

exif data... is that all the stuff like iso, f, lens etc? I can give it a try....<div></div>

I have had this camera (Canon Rebel 300D 6.3MP) for about 8 months now and its

worked great.

 

However.... past 3 weeks I have been having a problem with the quality of the

image and it being too dark.

 

If I take a photos and the light meter (built in) is set dead center, the image

seems to come out a bit darker than it use to.

 

Weirder still... I had a buddy come over and help me test the new lights I just

got (55w 5000k Fluorescents 250w equivalents) and I took the picture, and I

checked the LCD display and they looked ok. I zoomed in on the LCD to check

focus and light and still seemed ok. I dump the files to my computer and they

were too dark to use. Can only lighten so much because they lose detail and look

like poop.

 

When I shoot, 1st thing I do is clear all camera settings, so when I shoot, no

weird settings are in place from the previous shoot.

 

I've checked the LCD brightness and it's at default, shooting mostly high

quality JPG, and a few RAW since the problem occurred. Inside and outside.

 

Any ideas? Do the sensors on these need 'tuning' ever so often?

 

Thanks

Hmm...

 

is there really a huge difference between the 50/1.4 and the 50/1.8? Other than $250? I know it affects the DoF, and I love using DoF in my photos... but debating now if maybe getting the cheaper 50mm would be better AND the 85mm (both f/1.8)... quantity vs quality?

Ha... someone replied while I was typing that last one.

Thanks for the answers so far by the way...

 

My situation sounds like Aubrey Pullman, I will be in a living room wanting to shoot shoulder-up shots, but mostly, be interested in doing full body Pin-Up style shots indoors.

 

Outdoors I hope to do a lot of shooting for which I am sure the 85mm would be best. Model shoots, maybe weddings one day.

 

The big concern is that I am in such a small space indoors that to take nice details shots with a good prime lens, I may not be able to use the 85mm simply because I can't back up enough to get the person all in frame and in focus.

 

I currently have a Canon Rebel 300D SLR 6.3MP. Bought it used because well, I'm a student and the 5D would cripple me. :) I have the stock 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lens, and the 75-300mm f/4-5.6 lens as well.

 

... also, anyone have a good link about lens' for portraits? I hear people say that an 85mm is more flattering than a 50mm, but, no one can explain it.

Crop body?

 

New term for me... I don't know. I have a Canon 300D SLR right now.

 

As for focal distance, not sure if I am using the correct term or not.... basically, how far back do you have to be before you can focus on an object. I assume that with a 50mm lens I can stand closer to the subject than with the 85mm. I know with my 18-55mm I can stand a few feet back, but with the 75-300 I have to stand way back before it will focus.

 

The one question I have which is where I am getting mixed answers from the people I know, is, do all 50mm lens' have the same 'focal distance'? Do all 85mm?

 

I'm just trying to figure out what affects how close you have to be aside from the lens size itself... I know a 50mm is closer than a 300mm.... that's not an issue. But... if one 50mm can focus closer than another 50mm, then what affects that? Just quality? does the F number affect it? does the width (58mm vs 72mm) affect it?

 

Trying to figure the 'science' behind it I guess...