mesullivan
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Posts posted by mesullivan
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<p>check the faq at bryan and cherry alexander photography. They use Canon camera digital and film at much much lower temps than 99.999999% of us will ever experience much less shoot in.<br /><a href="http://www.arcticphoto.co.uk/faq.htm">http://www.arcticphoto.co.uk/faq.htm</a></p>
<p>By the way, my Son used a 5D and a 30D in a pretty hard rain and mid 40 degree F for about 6 hours a while back with no problems. I think sometimes we baby our equipment a little too much.</p>
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<p>Seems odd. I've left mine in the vehicle overnight. Used it within a couple of hours of getting it inside.</p>
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<p>I've done the same and I can't remember what I did to get it out of that situation. What have you tried so far?</p>
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I find that increasing saturation in post scanning degrades detail while choosing a high saturation film does not. Kodak rates E100VS lower grained and sharper than G or GX and I find that true. Start with what you want instead of trying to achieve it with photoshop and I think you will be happier.
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I thought the pic I posted was a good example of the look at used not only the lens but the light (as someone else mentioned) to give that look. Notice the leaves on the road between the camera and the colored tree, and the canon and stone monument on the left. The photo "as depth" and layers as some would say.
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I would say the 135mm and the 35mm f/2 give a certain look I really like that would resemble what you care talking about.<div>
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I wouldn't describe it as useful but I thought I would give it a shot. I've since found one at KEH without the tripod extennsion that came with the one with the warped back. Hopefully it will work well, I'll get to experiment and have a little fun before putting it on a shelf or passing it on.
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Nowdays I have the C-41 developed, scan it, making my adjustments on the coolscan on in post scan processing and have the digital file printed by a commercial or custom printer. This isn't necessarily what I think is best, but what I feel is the best I can do with what equipment I have.
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which is why I wrote develop/print. Maybe I should have put develop/print/scan. Boils down to more highlight information is retained in the negative as the more light the darker the area of the negative and the information is retained, etc. etc.
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"Expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights" negative film holds highlights pretty well so you expose for the shadows and then develop/print for the highlights and you retain more shadow detail.
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I too tend to expose negative film at a bit less than rated speed. I've got a roll out now that I exposed at 80 ISO but I didn't have any problems at 100 ISO with the other rolls.
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Well, RATS!! I got the film, it fits the back, finished up the roll in an F-1 but when mounting it realized the back is warped and will not latch. Good fleabay lesson there.
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Well, Polaroid stopped making film, they didn't stop selling it. If I remember correctly they stated they had 2 years worth on hand. So, I ordered Polaroid, you can still get it everywhere you can get Fuji. I only have 35mm and digital and have no plans at the moment to get a MF (not that I wouldn't mind having one). So I only want to try the F-1 back before putting it up. I'm single so I can shoot BB guns in the house if I want to. :-)
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Ah ha! I figured it out. It should be attached. I think it will still work. I paid a pittance for it so if I only get to use it for the two packs it won't be so bad.
Thanks for the responses.
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Thanks, it has instructions of a sort inside the lid, there is a bent flat bar in it I'm not sure where it goes. I figure I'll shoot the two packs of film, tire of it and put it in the collection. :-) I use a digital to check tricky light setups and usually use my FD for natural light or natural light and fill only anyway. Just wanted to use one while I still could.
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The answer is it is a useless toy. I've got two packs of film coming I would like to shoot in it before setting it on a shelf.
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Does anyone know where I can find the instructions for this?
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Have you tried adjusting the analog gain or using DEE with the Coolscan software?
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I thought they would since they'll be run through E6 processing at Dewaynes. I wonder if they would come back with Fuji on the side of the slide holder? :-(
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Has anybody sent ektachrome with these mailers? If that'll work, I'll buy a bundle now.
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There are some examples and discussion in the film and processing forum. I've gotten one roll back and another is being developed right now. It's very fine grained, pretty saturated and cheaper, easier, and quicker to get processed than Ektachrome. But........it's not Ektachrome. So, don't expect it to be. It is good though. I expect to continue using it.
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Interesting links are
http://www.canonfd.com/newf1world/f1worldind2.html and http://www.popphoto.com/cameras/1250/featured-used-camera-of-the-week-canon-new-f-1.html
I've used mine in light rain, fog, and mist with no problems but like others I don't think it has the weatherproofing of my 1V and age has surely taken it's toll on any items made of rubber.
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Great shots and great scanning also. The Velvia seems to scan very well.
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Very useful info. Thanks.
17-40 Quality control
in Canon EOS Mount
Posted