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chris_garverick

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Posts posted by chris_garverick

  1. <p>This summer I am going to San Francisco for a work event. I will have some downtime, but not enough to justify me taking my big kit. I'd like to rent either an Olympus E-P2 or a Panasonic DMC-GF1 with either the Olympus 17mm or Panasonic 20mm lens. This will mostly be used for street style photography, some indoor shots, and maybe a landscape. Any thoughts on what combination I should get? All of your help is appreciated.<br>

    Thanks!</p>

  2. <p>I just got my ColorMunki Photo and am calibrating my monitor in advanced mode where it takes an ambient light reading to then tell you what to set your monitors luminance to. My question is, should I be taking an ambient light reading for my working conditions or for my display conditions?<br>

    I tried doing it under my working conditions (a totally dark room at night), but the monitor seems awfully dark and I'm afraid my prints will be too dark. Just wondering what I should do, also I am setting the white point to D65.<br>

    Thanks for the help!</p>

  3. <p>I'm leaving for a new position, and a co-worker of mine gave me a roll of Kodachrome 200 as a going away present. He kept it in his freezer for quite some time and i have a few questions.<br>

    1. It was left on my desk overnight so it is not at room temperature, should I put it back in the freezer or leave as is?<br>

    2. It is marked as process by 06/1990, so I know I need to shoot it and develop it quickly. Once i have it loaded into my camera and am shooting it, how soon do I need to finish the roll. I have a specific use for this film that I want to do, that might not happen till Christmas of this year.<br>

    3. Any other comments or suggestions?<br>

    Thanks!</p>

  4. <p>I have the newest version, with the built-in motor, and I am a little disappointed. A friend of mine has the old version, without the motor, and I used it several times on both my D200 & D300. I loved, sharp photos, nice contrast, and a great buy. I think they much have had to make some sacrifices when they added the motor. My advice though is if you an find the Nikon mount with out the built-in motor, then go for it. Just one man's opinion though.</p>
  5. <p>I have the newest version, with the built-in motor, and I am a little disappointed. A friend of mine has the old version, without the motor, and I used it several times on both my D200 & D300. I loved, sharp photos, nice contrast, and a great buy. I think they much have had to make some sacrifices when they added the motor. My advice though is if you an find the Nikon mount with out the built-in motor, then go for it. Just one man's opinion though.</p>
  6. <p>Hi all - <br>

    I just got an Epson R280 super cheap (free actually), that came with my new LX3. I picked it up for cheap borderless 4x6 photos for the family. I downloaded the latest drivers from Epson for it and it is printing way way way too dark. I am basing this on printing the same photo on my Epson 2200, using the same paper. I have tried borderless printing from my 2200, but it always leaves margin, so I figured why not try this printer.<br>

    I am using a color calibrated monitor. The paper is Epson Premium Photo Paper Glossy. I am using Photoshop CS4 to print. Color management is turned off in CS4 when I print (from both printers).<br>

    Even if I try to do a preview I can see that the R280 is going to print too dark.<br>

    Any suggestions or ideas will be greatly appreciated...thanks!</p>

     

  7. <p>I am interested in trying to mess around with pinhole photography.  I was wondering if anyone else has done this and could recommend a site to buy a pinhole body cap/lens.  Something in the area of 35mm lens equivalent is what I'd like to find.  Again, I know almost nothing about this, so if I am getting things wrong, please let me know.</p>
  8. I own the 24mm and love it. It is the most used lens on my camera, perfect for indoor

    family gatherings or street/city photography. I have also used it for landscapes, but not

    that often.

     

    However, I would suggest that you either look at the Tokina 12-24mm f/4 or the

    upcoming Tokina 11-16mm f/2.8.

     

    You can have the 12-24mm f/4 and the 24mm/2.8 for less then half the cost of the 14-

    24mm. Also the 12-24mm takes 77mm filters, where both the 14mm f/2.8 and the 14-

    24mm f/2.8 won't take standard filters.

     

    Just some ideas to think about, but no matter what you do, make sure you grab that

    24mm/2.8, it is my favorite lens.

  9. I have the 18-200mm and I love it. I will say that I had a bad example and had to send it

    in for repair. It was all done under warranty, they said it had both a focus shift and that

    they had to replace the VR unit. Since I've gotten it back I shoot it in A mode and set it to

    f/8. The images I have obtained have been wonderful.

     

    As for the Tamron a friend of mine purchased it and I have used it many times. It is a

    great lens, not the fastest focusing though. I use it at either f/2.8 or f/4, and even wide

    open the images are quite acceptable.

     

    Hope this helps and good luck.

  10. I have a Huey PRO that I am using with my 15" MacBook Pro display (non-glossy) & an LG 22" external

    display. This is the first time I am calibrating. When I do it, the colors look really warm, I mean to me the

    whites look almost pink.

     

    I can't believe this is right, but how do I know things are right or not? Also, what kind of lighting should I

    be calibrating in, a totally dark room, one with a daylight lamp, my normal use lighting?

     

    Any and all comments or thoughts would be welcome, I am new to color calibrating and want to make

    sure things are done right.

     

    Thanks!

  11. I'll be honest, crunching some numbers, I don't think that it is possible to do what you are

    wanting to with a single photo from the D2x. 5.5 x 3.5 meters equates to 64,950 x

    41,400 pixel image if you are wanting to print at 300dpi, if you want to print at 150dpi

    then cut this figures in half. Some people say you have to print at 300 dpi, but i have

    found that it just depends on the photo and your own personal preference.

     

    What I would suggest is breaking up the image using a telephoto to zoom in and take

    multiple shots, like you would for a panoramic, then stitch them together. That would

    provide you with the best quality shot, and allow you to create an image with enough

    pixels to produce a quality print.

  12. What is your current zoom? If possible I would suggest getting something that uses the same filter size, or that's at least close. This will help save you some extra money in the long run.

     

    I will say though that the 70-300mm VR is an amazing lens for a general telephoto. I bought a friend of mine one as a gift, and have used it on several occasions.

  13. I just attended the Nikon School in January. I went the entire weekend and walked away

    with more notes, ideas, and enthusiasm then I have had in a long time. I would highly

    recommend going both days if you can. I will say that to a point they push Nikon

    products, more so View NX & Capture NX then the actual cameras. At the school I went to

    they had 2 Nikon sales reps from the area that were very knowledgeable. They were able

    to answer many questions, especially a lot of technical questions on specific bodies and

    lenses.

     

    I have been involved in photography for almost 15 years, although just the last 2 or 3

    years have been digital. The basic information they went through on the first day was a

    great refresher, and they went into a lot of detail, much more then I thought they would.

    The second day was even better, their suggestions on how to fix up various types of

    photographs and how to streamline the workflow process were very useful. I was

    especially impressed on the second day when they went over in fair detail about the

    Creative Light System. They went through how to set it up, situations when you might

    want to use it, various setting suggestions, and some general flash photography info as

    well.

     

    I had Bill Durrence and Reed Hoffmann for my instructors, and they were both excellent.

    Bill has more of a history in photo-journalism and talks a lot about JPEG files, while Bill

    focuses more on RAW format. I have sent both a few e-mail since the course, asking some

    more detailed questions about things they touched on, and both have been great about

    getting back in touch with me.

     

    Like I said before, if you can go, you should. It was a great experience for me, and I would

    recommend it to anyone.

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