alinciortea

<p>i tried that but in vain. in fact i tried so hard (and with so many inappropriate tools) that the black cap got totally screwed. i couldn't unscrew it even with the holes in the actual retaining ring accessible. i guess the right tools are definitely a must. although i still suspect someone has actually superglued that ring.</p>

<p>thanks a lot!<br>

i've shot a test roll and exposure came out fine. i think i'll just leave it to that for the moment as i don't have that calibrated light source, nor the original battery. better this way than to cause even more damage.</p>

thanks, John!

 

i did both disassembly and assembly with the camera set at 1/1000s. i also figured out the 5o'clock

position but from what i understood from the service manual, the exposure meter fine tuning is made from a

different corded disc somewhere in the galvanometer's area (i don't have access there because i can't

unscrew the cocking lever retaining ring - probably glued by someone). i was hoping i could do the final

adjustment from the slotted disc in the image...

 

from what you know, how is the recalibration done?

<p>Good afternoon, everybody!</p>

<p>I need some skilled advice on reassembling the shutter speed ring and the gears beneath it on an Oly OM-1. The problem is that I don't know the correct position of the corded gear in respect to the speed sensing ring. I've posted detailed explanations and images here><br>

<a href="http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/20385.html?1290353961">http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/forum/messages/2/20385.html?1290353961</a><br>

and the corded gear I'm talking about is the disc 4 on this image <br>

<img src="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x228/alinCiortea/camera%20repair/IMG_3557_3.jpg" alt="" width="1200" height="800" /><a href="http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x228/alinCiortea/camera%20repair/IMG_3557_3.jpg">http://i187.photobucket.com/albums/x228/alinCiortea/camera%20repair/IMG_3557_3.jpg</a><br>

Any ideas?<br>

Thank you in advance!<br>

alin</p>

<p>My whole viewfinder popped up once as it seems I hadn't screwed the screws tight enough. Being on a river bank I could only recover three of the four screws, but I happened to have a broken Oly Trip with me and just got one from it. It seems any old camera should have at least one compatible screw easily reachable.<br>

Otherwise you could try at any clocks repairman. They should have all kinds of tiny screws.</p>

<p>I'm out of my league as well, as it seems. Indeed, the fresnel simply focuses the light towards the hotspot making the image brighter. On the other hand, although not visible in the image above, the screen has concentrical striations, like a fresnel lens...<br>

I guess I'll see the results on the first roll... It seems it's not the brightest ideea to start twinkering on cameras without the appropriate knowledge :)</p>

<p>:) Perhaps we're not using the same ground glass... I've bought mine from ebay and it seems to be what arax is selling <a href="http://araxfoto.com/accessories/screen/">here.</a> It certainly has its own fresnel, otherwise it shouldn't be able to focus anything, right?<br>

The glass has a slight semisphere bumb in the middle, right where the split image and microraster is. I though about differences in height and position as well but I don't really know how fresnels work actually...</p><div></div>

<p>I've also removed the original fresnel so now it's just the new ground glass installed (since it already has its own fresnel lens built-in and I spoke with someone with the know-how who told me I wasn't supposed to place a fresnel lens over another). I've also placed the glass with the split vertically but I suppose it's just the same (even better for portraits as I cand focus more easily on the eyes)<br>

I understand you left the original fresnel in place? Doesn't it act weird (with the clear spot on the original being smaller than the split zone on the kiev screen).<br>

I've measured the focus again with a ruler and it seems ok but I yet have to test it on film.</p>

<p>Toni, have you checked your focus? I've also changed my screen but I think it's a bit off focus (probably due to the fact that the fresnel lens is incorporated in the screen). I'm about to shoot a test roll... if it really is off focus, I don't really know what to do.</p>

I had another try with the tank totally filled with developer, associated with figure "8" movement and short raps of the tank. It seems this process works fine.

my tank has no disk but the vertical movement of the reel it permits with the cap closed is of about 1cm.

 

i've also heard many complaining about aprons but i guess it's a matter of getting used to one system or another as each comes with its advantages and disadvantages.

thank you for your replies! i'll try to work something our for the next developing, compiling all the info received. :)

initially i thought the bubbles appeared on the side to the bottom of the tank, but indeed, after some calculations, the upper side was affected. yet, at each agitation i have a very small quantity of developer spilling out of the tank and i thought this means thereţs more than enough developer inside...

that's right :)

 

<P>

 

i have two such aprons, one made from clear plastic and one from white opaque plastic. both seem to have similar dents. how can i distinguish between agitation aprons and turning aprons? (my tank - TRIPLEX - is an agitation tank)

<P>

i used the white apron for my first two rolls developed in this tank. it has a plastic clip used to fix the rolled apron to the reel. both films got stuck to the apron on the lower side for most of their length. someone told me it was due to the clip that was keeping the apron from freely move inside the tank during developing so i'd tried the clear plastic apron that lacks the clip. indeed, no more film sticking to it but instead the air inclusions appeared. i'm really confused...<div></div>

I have a corex band developing tank (I'm not really sure this is how they call

it) for medium format and I get air bubbles on the lower side, 1 cm wide, for

the entire length of the film. I've agitated it quite hard with

clockwise-counterclockwise moves for about 15 seconds before closing the tank

and another 15 seconds afterwards, yet the bubbles are still there, although I'd

hoped all air inclusions would rise to the surface of the developer after all

that agitation.

<P>

Am I missing something?

Thank you!<div></div>

I've already read all that I could find on P6 and tried to follow the method as accurately as possible. I guess it takes practice and more than just two films to get it right :)

It seems it was an isolated event (for now, at least). The film plate shows no dents or strange patterns. Perhaps I could have slightly pulled the back door while moving the camera around... (in case it doesn't equally seal the film chamber)

I never let the film advance slap back (that was the first thing I ever read about p6 :) ) and I do keep the film under tension when loading but just before closing the back I have to remove my finger from the film roll and I guess the tension decreases pretty much. From what I've heard, the roll that counts the lenght of advanced film is actually touching the paper and not the film in other (japanese) designs, thus having a significantly better grip, while on the p6 it is turned by the film. I believe it has the tendency to slip on the film surface and thus won't disengage the film advance when it's supposed to leading to that extra space in between frames. I've bended a little the two metal blades that are supposed to keep the tension between the film and the roll. I hope I'll see the (positive) effects on the next film. Thank you for your replies!

In fact it is new. This was the second film I shot with it. Still, I did pay a lot of attention to film loading but unfortunately there are quite a few variants going around the Internet. Which one do you recommend?

No, my P6 is not overlapping frames but quite the opposite, leaving such large

spaces that I only get 9 or 10 frames on a 120 film. Theoretically I know where

the problem is (the film 'couter' that feels how much film has been winded and

uncouples the advancing mechanism from the arming lever) but I have no idea how

it can be solved. Has anyone tried smth that works? Thank you!

Thanks, Dan!

<P>

I'll take a look after I'm done with the film I have inside now. I have to ask though, if the there's this light leak you are telling us about, then why did it occur only one time in one film? Shouldn't it have happened on every frame?

<P>

I'll post an image with the film back as soon as I finish the film.

this is how the histogram looks like after inverting the image (i've selected only the image area and then applied the levels). for a perfect exposure the histogram looks better but far from good. you can imagine what happens when dragging the sliders to correct the histogram...<div></div>

well, i'm placing the negative on a glass that has an improvised softbox aprox 30cm underneath it, i do a manual wb on the softbox as it yelds a yellow cast and then i shoot the negative with the kit lens (as it focuses closest). the camera is always set on manual and i have to do a couple of test exposures before getting it right - most of the times it's smth like iso200, 1/80 and f6.3 for my light source). unfortunatelly the histogram looks pretty messed up because light not only comes only through the negative. the right way to do it is through an inclosed dark box with an opening the size of the frame but i haven't had the time to build one.

<br>

i use this method for indexing purposes only.

Thanks for answering, Robert! :)

<P>

The pentacon was a bargain for 120$ and I've also got a working TTL prism for it (unbelievably, it seems to be as accurate as my 300D). everything seems to work fine except for the frame counter (although sometimes it goes a full 12 frames without problems).

<P>

unfortunately, on one frame on the test film there's some light leak that I can't figure out. It affected only the middle third of the frame on the left side (it also spread onto the space between the frames and slightly onto the previous frame). I'll have to run another film to see whether it was an isolated event or there really is a problem with the camera.<div></div>

i just bought a pentacon sixTL and i've noticed that sometimes when i cock the

shutter the frame counter won't advance (thus the advancing lever won't lock

when i hit the 12th frame and i risk shooting on the black paper if i don't

remeber how many times the counter didn't advance)

<P>

they say that one should never let the advance lever fly back on its own but

nobody says what effects this has on the camera. unfortunately, it happend once

(due to slightly wet fingers) and now i wonder if something broke inside the

camera (although i don't know it's history so the problem could date back a while)

<P>

any opinions of suggestions?

<P>

thank you!