raymond_ocampo

When I used to work with film (cinematography) lenses with Zeiss and the like I can be able to get focus by

zooming in and focusing on the subject matter I want in critical focus then zoom out with the proper

framing in mind.

 

Can I do this same method with Nikon zoom lenses (or any other high quality lens) for that matter? With

the focus point shift as I zoom in and out of the frame?

 

Thanks for the input.

Ah, quick search...thanks. So with the VR on and mounted on a tripod the gyro will keep on

moving and will end up generating it's own motion/vibration and thereby might further

introduce blur.

Manual says when mounted on a tripod VR is turned off. However, in your case with the

ballhead loose then that's the same as a great person trying to do a steady handhold so I

would say to keep it on.

 

Anyway, does anyone know what the deal is why VR should be off when mounted to the

tripod anyway? Any consequence with the internal gyro?

Thank you, Kent, once again.

 

By the way, great photos. You have surely mastered those night train shots.

Thank you, Kent! Exactly the user info that I needed before I go set out and purchase the

Skyport.

 

Just to reiterate what I'm undersstanding:

 

1. One Skyport Transmitter attached to the hotshoe of the Nikon D80. This is

automatically triggered via the hotshoe and no other cable.

 

2. A Skyport (Universal) Receiver for each of the flash/strobe/monolight units.

 

3. When the flash goes to sleep all I have to do is partially press on the trigger and it will

wake the flash from sleep. Press a second time to fire.

 

Speaking of PocketWizard, I guess these are the expensive models the Elinchrom units

have been trying to beat, right?

Okay, thanks. But what is the best setting to use the Elinchrom with the D80 without any

mis-fire? Will manual mode work and flash on? No auto settings whatsoever.

Hi. I am considering investing in a wireless flash trigger system. I'm going toward an Elinchrom for it's

features and build. I can't seem to find a manual on it. Does anyone know how the Elinchrom EL Skyport

connects and functions with a Nikon D80? Is it as simple as connecting it to the hotshoe and it is able to

read and detect the trigger of strobes? Thanks for the help.

Hi, William. I re-read my reply and it wasn't clear.

 

They absolutely still do non-destructive editing but save the modifications as a small/large JPG or TIFF file (depending on what you want). This makes the file easy to open anywhere rather than a proprietary .LZN file.

 

I don't know how they do it, but all the amendments to the files are hidden within that JPG/TIFF file.

 

In any case that file that was saved still references the original file which is helpful esp if it's RAW.

John,

 

You have to go into the LightZone prefs and go into the "Save" tab then change from

8bits/Channel to 16bits/Channel. That's the first thing I did (and do to all other apps)

when first time launching a software so I can tailor it to my liking.

 

By your asking the last question, I assume you are using a version older than 3.1.

LightZone used to create a small file called ".LZN" in order to save all the modifications

there without touching the original file. Hence, non-destructive editing.

 

With version 3, they decided to drop this method and save the modifications as either a

straight JPG or TIFF file that other applications can read.

 

Hope this helps.

I have a consumer 18-135 and I can manually override the autofocus. After it has focused, I can just turn the focus ring and press the shutter. So I still don't know the different between the A-M mode and A/M-M mode as both times I can manually focus afterward while in Auto mode.

Adam,

 

Thanks for the info. Can you please expand further, please.

 

For example what do you mean by "the focus ring doesn't move when you AF..."? The

focus ring on the 18-135 AF-S does not move also when it tries to focus. I can leave my

hand on the focus ring while it does auto focus action and it does not turn with it.

 

Also, I can focus manually with this lens after the camera finishes focusing automatically.

It acts exactly like the 105mm micro-Nikkor where I can fine tune focusing right after AF.

 

So I'm still wondering how the two focus rings differ when they can do exactly the same

auto focus then do a manual over ride action. But the cheaper lens gives a better tactile

feedback. In fact I don't have to place the mode to "M" to do a manual focus.

 

Help further explain! Thanks.

By the way, the gold ring according to prior discussions here signifies it is a PRO lens with

better lens element including the use of ED elements. But the same is not true with a lens

having ED feature, hence being marked with a gold ring.

 

Case in point is my D80 kit lens which is an 18-135mm ED. It has no gold ring, but

features ED elements.

 

The gold ring lenses I see is has metal components than plastic on the non-gold ring

lenses and has weatherproof sealing.

 

Those are what I came across with so far while reading the discussion.

Hi, Edward. Thank you for the info and insight which is much appreciated. I was honestly

expecting a more mechanical/tactile feel to this lens. But taking a few shots earlier, I am

impressed with the quality. Definitely a great buy.

 

I am looking forward to saving up for another AF-S VR IF-ED lens in the future. Perhaps a

zoom lens this time.

I have just received this lens today and coming from the D80 kit lens - a 18-135mm DX - I have a few

questions:

 

1. The VR II when switched on makes a light clunking noise when focusing. Is this normal? I am

concerned because the packaging box was a little dented, although the lens box inside was okay. So I just

want to make sure it wasn't dropped by the courier and thereby damaging any internal optics or VR

mechanism.

 

2. The "cheap" kit lens focus ring stops from end to end. And that's what I love as it gives me a tactile

indication when I reached the end already. But this PRO lens doesn't stop. Although there is a slight

indication that I reached each end, I can still keep on turning the focus ring any which way forever.

 

This is a little disappointing because the PRO lens should help photographers make them manually focus

better by providing better feedback. But this particular lens does not. Again, is this normal?

 

Any Nikon PRO lens owner can tell me if all their GOLD RING lenses does the same thing or only select

lenses?

 

Thanks for any input.

Thanks for additional info. Was recently hired to do photography for a magazine and wanted

to give a good impression and hand out a photo ready for their printing. But I guess you are

right, they should know what to do with my photos as they reach prepress.

Thank you, T Feltus, for the link and Howard Owen for the extensive reply. In summary, edit

as usual in RGB and conversion to CMYK as my last step with tweaking if it doesn't turn out

the same way as seen in RGB.

 

One last question, I work in D65 environment for my photos. But where in the process do I

switch to D50? From the beginning of editing the photo or during tweaking when I convert to

CMYK?

How do I get started with editing photos and exporting for magazine use? I'm just doing basic cropping

and color-correction to my photos. I have a few programs at my disposal - PS, Aperture and Lightzone.

 

The publisher of the magazine has given me the specs with which the only thing I understand is 300dpi.

Other terms I have to search online.

 

In the meantime, the magazine printing method is CTP sheet fed with CMYK colors. So how do I go about

with my photos? Do I edit them in PS using CMYK immediately or do I first edit the usual in RGB? Should I

convert the photos to CMYK before handing it to them or can they do this themselves?

 

Help, please. Thanks.

Seriously, your composition and color contrast is top notch.

 

No offense to Florian Wagner - a professional photographer sponsored by Leica and

Lowepro. But his chosen photographs on the Leica brochure didn't do justice to his body

of work or the capability of the camera. Besides the horrible compression, the photos

concentrated around the Cannonball run event than a wide range of other of his

photographs including nature and portraits.

 

When I saw your sample photos, that's what people should see to tell them what can be

achieved. Keep up the great portfolio and keep posting those sample photos. It will find

it's way to the executives of these companies.

Thmas, I have the Leica version and enjoy every bit of the camera. The price reduction is

even more another reason to grab one.

 

If you think you want the red dot branding whether for foolish reasons or not, go ahead

and indulge yourself. A person shouldn't apologize for his wants especially if it doesn't

harm others.

 

With that said, there are nice qualities and there are certainly flaws. Not many people will

enjoy this camera for so many reasons such as price and ergonomics. On the other hand,

I love the retro feel with the various controls at my fingertips. The size is bulky and on the

heavy side, but I like it on my hands. When I just simply want to bring it around, the Leica

JPG quality is a nice bonus which I don't have to professionally work on in RAW.

 

Again for the price, 7.5Mpixel may not be justifiable these days. But I am enjoying every

bit of pixel that the lens and LiveMOS sensor is able to capture. This may be a no-brainer

comparison, but it certainly is on a different league than my 8Mpixel Leica D-Lux 2

(although I still love that camera and can't seem to let it go).

 

With that said, I suggest you try one out first in-store and play with it for an hour. Get to

know the controls and see if you like how it feels.

 

I especially appreciate the two Function buttons beside the shutter release as you can

program anything there. I have chosen to program the "film" settings as well as RAW on/

off mode.

 

Good luck.

 

P.S. Godfrey DiGiorgi has posted very nice shots with the L1. He should be hired by either

company to display it's capabililty.

I'm not embarassed to purchase the Leica version with the price difference. Why should I

or any other Leica Digilux 3 owner be? Who cares the reason they bought it for. If it's

either for the red dot logo and that they simply have more spending power. It's their

money. Why should they be put down by other people for having more money and want to

spend more?

 

In any case here's the breakdown of each:

 

Panasonic warranty - Camera is warranted to 1 year parts and 90 days labor; EXCEPT for

the following: CCD is 6 months parts/90 days labor, Battery is 90 days parts and SD card

is 90 days parts.

 

Leica warranty - Everything is covered for 3 years; Risk warranty for the first 6 months on

the body and lens including accidental damage.

 

Anyway I like shooting RAW. For casual events where I just want to bring the camera along

I do appreciate the Leica JPG processing quality.

Alan,

 

"Chastised" was a strong word. But I did inform them of my displeasure toward handling

the problem. There are still a lot of customers out there venting in forums that are left in

the dark experiencing green hues after calibration.

 

As for "who am I?" I AM THEIR CUSTOMER. I am nothing to you as you are nothing to me.

So let's keep it that way.

 

And it does annoy me when someone asks "and who are you?" when he is a customer of

that product. A patron who tries to help make the company treat their customers better. I

can only hope you don't have a product nor a service to sell and then ask us, "and who are

you?" With your attitude you can only go down from there.

 

Furthermore, WHO I AM is the CUSTOMER who has been seeking support from Pantone for

the Huey product that I received last year. I have been patiently informing them of the

defect and met with months of back and forth communication until finally only this month

was it replaced. Six (6) long months of trying to make the product work right.

 

It is because of customer like me that others are informed that there is in fact a problem

even with the Huey PRO. That they did not fix the problem since last year. It is because of

my experience that I am able to help other customers not lose faith in the company and

then make their product replacement faster than what I have encountered.

 

Because of experiences like these I am able to contribute for the others. That is who I am.

I wish I can only say the same for you than question people like me.

Hi, Simon.

 

Yes, take it back for a FULL refund. Pantone is aware of the green cast. I chastised their

customer support for not responding fast enough and then knowing there is an occurence

of it. Furthermore, they are not making this aware to their customers. All they are doing

as a result is destroying their reputation by keeping silent.

 

Sadly, with you they have lost another customer. I can assure you the Huey works

wonderful, when it's working right. But most of the customers will not have any patience

(and rightfully so) to wait until they make their products 100% working.

 

I will not apologize for Pantone for this business practice toward their Huey. Sooner or

later it will bite them back in their bottoms.

 

If you have more money, I would check into ColorVision's Syder2Pro.

Yes, it happened to my Huey, too, in producing a horrible green cast. Color correction in

the dark or with lights, my monitor became the color of the Hulk.

 

Took awhile before someone from Pantone finally responded to state there are a few

defective sensors out there. I'm surprised there are still defective sensors for the Huey

PRO.

 

They gave me a file to determine my sensor serial number and then I responded back.

They made it believe like they knew the batch of serial numbers that were defective, but I

believe they are still trying to determine up to now and that there is no specific batch.

 

They sent me a new Huey via express shipping. It now works great in any kind of lighting

situation.

 

Contact them. There's a support page there where you can send them your own message

for assistance. Tell them it's urgent so someone will respond within a few days. Let us

know here how it goes.

"a RAID 1 setup for COMPLETE backup of the whole drive"

 

I just realized this statement is REDUNDANT (pun intended). Mwa ha ha!

Personally I would rather have a smaller drive and a corresponding back up than one large

drive and hope it doesn't fail or corrupt a file in a few years.

 

I've lost a few photo and video files from a LaCie D2 drive and traced it to heat issues with

the design case as pointed out from other users. Never again.

 

Now it's better to either have a back up program (lots of free out there) running at startup

and archiving SELECT FILES to another drive OR a RAID 1 setup for COMPLETE backup of the

whole drive.