laurent1

<p>There is no quality difference between the ai and the ais lens. In pre-AIS series lenses manufactured before 1981 the aperture control mechanism has a non-linear construction. When making pictures with such lens a slight expo correction may be needed, if you use a dandelion chip.<br>

http://filmprocess.ru/nikon_spec_en.htm<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>In my opinion, the 105 gives you the impression of having a Zeiss lens. I have several contax lenses that I adapted to my nikon and the 105 ais gives you nearly the same picture quality as a planar or a sonnar from Zeiss. This feeling comes not only from the sharpness but also from the marvelous colors that hit the sensor. The 1.8 is supposed to be even better, but for a higher prize.<br>

That said, in order to use your 105 on the 3100, you will have to add a dandelion chip that will give the camera the informations it needs: I did it on my 105 and it works now as a "G" lens. You have to focus manually of course.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>1. yes. I don't know if it's THE russian chip, but it looks like it and works exactly the same way.<br>

2. Absolutly no idea : I don't have an F90x camera.<br>

To glue the chip, you'd better use a kind of gel glue and not a glue that is very liquid. I got a chip that had the pins stuck inside because the glue managed to go in the chip.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>anyway, if anybody is interested, I am selling my 6006 and a nice collection for lenses (40, 80, 150 and 250 mm), because I don't have the time to use it. Contact me off line for inquires. It's really a great camera. You have the felling of shooting medium format like you shoot with a 35 mm automatic camera.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>on ebay, search for<br>

AF Confirm chip nikon</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I made the conversion with a dandelion chip on following lenses :<br>

55 /2.8 macro<br>

85/2 On thoses two lens, there was no need to plane the lensbarrel.<br>

On the 105 /2.5, 35/2, and angénieux 70-210, I had to plane the lensbarrel (There is a kind of black wall that has to be planed in order to place the chip in the right position.<br>

I also used the chip on Contax lenses converted to nikon. for more info on this, check www.leitax.com<br>

If one need more infos, contact me. But I am not selling chips !<br>

Once installed and programmed, the lens behaves just like if you put an ais lens on a Nikon FA : you set the aperture to the smallest opening and you can use the P function without limitation.<br>

Best regards<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Thank you Frank for your response.<br>

Which device would you advise ?<br>

I guess that the mc-30 trigger will only shoot a picture. Or is it possible to configure the camera so that another option is activated ?<br>

I haven't found any response in the manual.<br>

Thanks<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Hello erveryone,</p>

<p>I am the happy owner of a Nikon d300s. I think it is quite akward to start the movie recording due to the position of the button that has to be triggered. Is there any way to use a remote trigger to activate this feature ? My intention is to modify an old pistol grip.<br>

Thanks for your help.</p>

<p>Laurent</p>

<p>my 55 micro nikkor is an AIS.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I Have installed one on a 55 mm 2.8 micro nikkor. The chinese guy who sold me the chip on ebay sends you an mounting ring if you buy two chips at once. With this ring, installation is quite easy : simply put the chip on the ring (it holds it) apply glue on the chip and place the ring in the proper position. You then just have to wait until the glue dries. Programming is a bit cumbersome. But once it is made, your lens behaves just like a AIP lens : you get full auto exposure (P mode).<br>

On the nikkor 55, there is no need to make any other operation, but on other lenses it would be necessary to shave the lens barrel in order to gain the necessary space to glue the lens.</p>

<p>The metering solution is the dandelion chip.<br>

I have just put one ont a 55/2.8 AIS and it works like a AIP lens: full Programm exposure mode without any trouble !<br>

It's excellent.</p>

<p>Laurent</p>

<p>It looks like they are the same. you need the counter anyway.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Rolleiflexes have delicate mecanisms. In particular the T. But if you use it as it is supposed to be used, it will work for years. I had myself a T made in the late 60's and it worked as a swiss watch !<br>

The T and the automat have a tessar lens. You can also find a 3,5 E for exemple quite cheap with an even better lens.</p>

<p>Laurent</p>

<p>Sorry, actually, there is also an english version.<br>

http://www.baierfoto.de/sl66engl.html</p>

<p>Laurent</p>

<p>With an adapter that can be bought in Germany, you can use an Kiev prism with a spot and a general light meter :</p>

<p>http://www.baierfoto.de/sl66.html</p>

<p>I hope you can read german.</p>

<p>Laurent</p>

<p>Si vous utilisez un objectif qui n'est pas PQ avec votre 6003, vous n'aurez pas d'indication dans le viseur, mais vous pourrez utiliser le tout comme si vous aviez un 6002, un 6006 ou un slx : il faut utiliser la touche qui permet de ferme de diaphragme pour vérifier la profondeur de champ : l'objectif affichera alors l'ouverture qui correspond à une bonne exposition en fonction de la vitesse choisie.<br>

En ce qui concerne l'obectif lui-même, il a deux décentrements et une bascule pour 1650 grammes.<br>

http://www.schneiderkreuznach.com/archiv/pdf/pc_san_45_55.pdf<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>I just did that with one of my batteries. Works fine with my 6006. The problem might come from your charger. I use a maha charger and it works, but I think older chargers like the N will not support NiMh cells.<br>

Just pour le plaisir, je le dis quand même en français : on trouve sur ebay un vendeur chinois qui propose des batteries de remplacement en NiMH pour les rolleiflex (40 $ avec le port). Elles sont déjà montées et soudées. Il faut juste démonter la batterie, sortir les anciennes piles et remettres les nouvelles. Il faut faire deux soudures et s'assurer qu'il n'y a pas de risque de court-circuit. La capacité de la batterie est plus ou moins doublée par rapport à une Ncd.<br>

J'utilise un chargeur Maha. Cela fonctionne très bien, mais je crois savoir d'anciens postes du forum que cela ne marche pas avec tous les chargeurs rollei.<br>

Pour plus d'infos, faites une recherche dans le forum, vous trouverez des postes ou l'on parle de ce problème de compatibilité ou un autre où il y a un descriptif du démontage, remontage de la batterie (avec photos).<br>

Bien à vous<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>You could try to clean the contacts between the back and the body. I had myself trouble with le light measuring. I opened the body and sprayed the speed dial button with contact spray. It works fine now. It could be a contact problem or a more serious problem. In this last case, you'd better buy another body. In particular you can find quite cheap 6006 on the bay.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Just a question : are you shure that you loaded the film the right way (empty down and film up) ? If you shoot without back, the winding wheel will rotate longer : the back should stop the winding when it is attached and not the body. There was another post a few weeks ago with the same problem with a 6003.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>It might be easier to answer if you post an exemple.<br>

Is the light measuring ok ? Try to measure a clear blue sky. You should get with 100 asa 125/16 or equivalent.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>The 6003 is supposed to be compatible with the "usual" rolleiflex 6000 interchangeable mag. Maybe try to clean the electrical connections between the mag and the body. It is my unterstanding that the mag should inform the body of the fact the there is a new film (in order to wind it from the "start" position until the first frame) and of the fact that the film is over. It seems then that your mag might be the problem and not the body. try it with another mag.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>If there is no light coming on on the charger, it is not charging. Send the charger back if it does not work. There should be a fuse on the charger also, check that out. Email me for more info.<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Thank you Frank,but I am not looking for the mag. itself, but only for the two small bars that reduce the exposed area of the film<br>

Laurent</p>

<p>Hello,<br>

I am looking for those two bars that have to be fixed in the camera light chamber in order to reduce the size of the exposed film area when using the 4,5 x 6 mag for the rolleiflex 6006. Does anyone has an idea where I can find those ?<br>

Thanks for your help</p>

<p>Laurent</p>

<p>If the mirror is moving, there is a problem with the lens. Maybe try to clean the contacts on the lens and on the camera. If nothing changes, bring it back to the store (if possible). The linear motor of the lens might be dead. the cost of the repair is not worth the value of the lens.<br>

There are two irises : one for the aperture and one for the shutter. If you take a picture with a small aperture, you should see the iris closing and opening again.<br>

Laurent</p>