andy_witkowski

<p>Sometimes you don't want twice as much (or 1/2 as much) light hitting the sensor(film). Therefore 1/2 or 1/3 stops (+/-) are available to fine tune the exposure.<br>

In this case the term "stop" has a broad scope (Av, Tv, ISO). Can also be used to describe flash output. But the meaning remains the same. 1 stop is twice as much percieved light +/-</p>

<p>To bad you don't have live view, this would be a great opportunity to use it.</p>

On my camera (40D) its when you press the shutter half way (engages) and stays engaged for a second or so after the shutter is released.

I'd wait till you can extract a 10mp image out of a 24fps clip. That is where the true intersection of video/still would be.

 

Given that, there is already supposedly a hack for the 40D that will capture video (no sound of course)

http://chdk.wikia.com/wiki/40D

I'm waiting for super HD movie mode. Being able to capture 24fps in full megapixel mode (12mpx or whatever it is). That will be the true merge between video and still...being able to pic a frame our of a movie stream and use it as a still photo.

mode 2 is for panning...i this case IS could make things worse (trying to follow a butterfly)

 

By choosing a zoom with large range between the long and short end (in this case more than 10x) lens design will

dictate that something will have to give. In this case it's maximum aperture. Is a f/2.8 version

possible?...maybe, but the size and weight would come into play.

 

Cost is also a factor as this isn't a cheap lens.

 

You mentioned being new to photography. That said it would be beneficial to read up on the role of

aperture/shutter speed/iso and how they relate to a correct exposure and how you can tweak them to get a creative

exposure.

 

One book is "Understanding Exposure" - Bryan Peterson...it jumps right in so there may be a presumption of a bit

of photography knowledge but a few reads of it will help you out.

 

Also there are a variety of online classes (free and tuition) and other books that are great resources.

 

Another suggestion would be the ef-s 55-250 lens. I don't have first hand knowledge but it seems to review nicely.

does it happen to all images? jpg and raw?

maybe its a faulty memory card.

worst case its a sensor issue.

Canon EOS 40D Guide to Digital Photography, by David D. Busch.

 

I second that

Wouldn't it be nice to have a live histogram overlay in the viewfinder? (of course something that you can turn on and off)

ND filter. Not really, If you extend exposure times you could end up with a bunch of overlapping fireworks (not really a bad thing, sometimes) Depending on the display you might be able to judge (by sound or sight) when a firework is launched. Open the shutter. Wait a few 5-10 seconds. Then close. Repeat.

You are not alone. That is the same reason why I bought the 40D. I spent a lot of time with each camera (at that time the XTi and 40D). Rented both for a week.Ultimately it was the ergonomics that sold me on the 40D.

Although the other features will be nice as I find my artistic niche.

Think of "1 stop" as either twice as much light or half as much light (depending on which way you are adjusting things) as the setting before.

 

1/125 of a second is a stop slower than 1/250 second (Tv)

f/2.8 is a stop slower than f/2 (Av)

ISO 100 is a stop slower than ISO 200 <--- in this case actual light "sensitivity" is changed but for a given Av and Tv you are effectively doubling or halving the light required for a correct exposure.

 

IS allows you to hand hold a given lens at a much slower shutter speed without blur caused by camera motion. This ability is measured in "stops" of shutter speed, as others have mentioned.

 

Lens based IS also gives you a stabilized image in the viewfinder, which is helpful even when shooting at higher shutter speeds.

 

Neither lens based or body based IS will help freeze action, so just keep that in mind when relying on IS to enable a hand held shot at slower than accustomed to shutter speeds.

How large of a card do you have?

 

I'm sure this isn't it, but on my 40D w/16GB card, i need to take a few hundred before the counter gets down to 999

not only that but the physical size of the VF is smaller....some may get tunnel vision :)

For me, shooting the full moon phase tends to lead to lost surface detail, since the moon is so bright.

 

Also multi second exposures may include blur due to the movement of the earth/moon. Take a look here for guidance on focal length vs shutter speed. (its an article on lunar ecplise but the guidlines are the same)

 

http://www.bobatkins.com/photography/tutorials/lunar_eclipse_photography.html

I would probably buy a 70-200 2.8 IS and a new computer.

 

Dunno what you would need.

That is a great Father's Day gift.

 

I would also suggest this gift (fairly cheap and will get you started within 6 weeks)

 

http://www.ed2go.com/cgi-bin/ed2go/newcrsdes.cgi?course=dph&title=Discover^Digital^Photography&departmentnum=DP&path=1

 

Online course called Discover Digital Photography. Lessons are published 2 times a week (wed and fri) and you'll have 2 weeks to complete each lesson. Its a great beginner class and Beverly and her TA's are very helpful.

 

(Note: I am not affiliated with ed2go in anyway, I have taken a few classes (photoshop) with Beverly and have learned a lot).

Congrats....I have another one on the way at end of Sept.

 

One word of advice (like you haven't gotten any already)...

 

When your daughter sleeps, you sleep....otherwise you'll never sleep.

i guess if its processed at 400, then those few photos would be underexposed 2 stops.

Yeah, In the case of holding the camera up to shoot somthing (like over the crowd) I don't think live view would be helpful, as the angle of view of the LCD is limiting.

Oh the other benefit (at least to me) of live view is, when tethered to a computer you can get a nice preview on-screen (live view on screen). Along with the center zoom and software controlled fine AF adjustment you can be assured that the focus is spot on.

I only have the 40D.

 

Maybe I'm mis-understanding what you are talking about with overhead and ground shots.

 

I think the lack of a swiveled LCD makes it difficult to use at angles where it would be tough to see the LCD.

 

I see the Live VIew as something great to use for macro and portrait photography.

 

It has a grid which is nice to use to line up a scene. It also allows you to zoom on the center portion of the image (up to 10x) for fine manual focusing.

 

I think at first enableing AF seems cumbersome, but like many things if you do it often, it becomes second nature.

 

Hope this helps.

Zafar

What white bal did you use for both cameras?

Are these jpeg out of the camera or raw2jpg?

What picture style (assuming jpeg) was used?

 

Thanks

err...thats flip back DOWN, then back UP :)

Of the 2 links I posted

the first had white bal adjustment (RAW source)

in camera noise reduction is on

RAW to jpeg convertion via Digital Professional Pro.

 

The second were 100% crops of out of camera jpeg (neutral style) stuck together in Paint Shop Pro x2

 

Just a note, if the image is underexposed. I'm sure the 40D will produce noiser images than the 5D....

 

 

I've used Live View for a few things....tripod stuff

 

I don't think it would be very useful "overhead" as for the most part its a manual focus operation. To get AF to work the mirror has to flip back up, focus then flip back down, shutter releases. Also I don't think you could see whats on the LCD if you raised the camera overhead .

 

Ground shots would be a little better, pretty much it isn't a real option for subjects that are moving.

 

 

As for sports, its looks the 5D holds it own. http://www.rangefindermag.com/magazine/Sep07/186.pdf