kingsley1

I know this is an old thread. I found it when I was searching for an answer to the question posed here. I have a 10-11 year old unopened bottle of DD-X which was kept in my refrigerator all these years and was wondering whether I should still use it as I had run out of HC-110. Well, I just did. Developed a roll of Pan 400 and a roll of Tmax 400 with it. It worked fine. No issues. Hope this information will be useful.

Jim, thanks, I will call her. I share all the sentiments expressed here about Sherry. My first and only experience with her

was nothing short of total satisfaction.

Jim, thanks, but I'm in Malaysia. I communicated with Sherry by email for my Cron repair a year ago.

Sherry hasn't replied my several letters sent over several months. I wonder why. She repaired my 35/2 Cron a year ago.

Can someone let me have her email address, just in case I had got it wrong. Thanks.

I tried to buy some adonal developer from an online shop in California but am told that the chemical cannot be shipped to me in

Malaysia by courier services due to some airline ban on "hazardous chemicals". I wonder if anyone knows if the ban applies to

passengers if the chemicals are placed into their checkin luggage. I will be visiting New York soon and may find some adonal there.

<p>Try the buy & sell section of this Singapore based photography forum. You may just be lucky.<br>

http://www.clubsnap.com/forums/index.php</p>

<p>Thanks, Jeff.</p>

<p>I have a 500C/M.<br>

I would like to know if the A12 film magazine and the Waist Level Finder on my camera will be fully usable on the 501 C/M, 503 CX or 503 CW ?</p>

<p><a href="http://s265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/kingsley244/?action=view&current=Crossing.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i265.photobucket.com/albums/ii233/kingsley244/Crossing.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket" /> </a></p>

I have a Konica 1 rangefinder. On its top plate is the word "Konica" and the number "42411". It has a fixed lens which has

the words "Konirapid-S" and "Konishiroku No. 42948 Hexar 1:3.5 f=50mm" on it.

 

On its bottorm plate are the words "Made In Occupied Japan" embossed on the leatherette. However, on the back plate

there is no inscription or any logo that reads "Konishiroku".

 

I read somewhere that if the camera was made in Occupied Japan then the bottom should say "Made in Occupied Japan"

and the back should have the logomark of "Konishiroku".

 

I wonder whether there is an explanation for this discrepency in my camera. Was it made in Occupied Japan ?

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7997324

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7997335

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7997338

 

http://www.photo.net/photo/7997341

 

I have never posted a picture in this forum before and I hope the above pictures will turn out alright.

I have a Nikon Ais 16mm/f2.8 fisheye which uses bayonet filters. I wonder if these filters are interchangeable with those

used on the 16mm/f2.8 AF version.

Sending the lens to Leica to do the 6-bit coding will take months before the lenses are returned. There is someone else in the States who can mill the lens mount for the 6-bit coding but he wants only the flange to be sent to him, not the whole lens.

 

I guess I will stick to the Coder Kit.

 

Thanks.

What are the risks or possible problems which may arise if I remove the mount flanges from my M-mount lenses to be

sent for 6-bit code milling ? If something goes wrong or if the flanges go missing will I be able to get replacement mount

flanges ?

Stuart, that is exactly what I think. I use old "Ais" Nikon lenses on my Nikon D700 and all I have to do is to enter the lens information (i.e. its focal length and its maximum aperture) in the set-up menu and the camera will then allow its metering system to be used with the lens. I believe what the M8's sensor does when it reads the 6-bit code is the same thing i.e. picking out the lens information to be used by its firmware.

Is there a reason why the lens information must be relayed through an expensive 6-bit coding on the lens and not fed in by

the user through the camera's set-up menu ? Can't the M8's firmware be made to accomodate this ?

Stuart, I am touched by your kindness. I was sure that there are people like you around !

 

I have also just read Helen's email and have responded to her and accepted her offer. I am equally thankful to her and Adorama.

 

What else can I say ? This world is beautiful.

Ali, I do not know why you need to mess up other's thread when you have nothing constructive to contribute to. You could have spent your time shooting like you said in another thread that you do very often.

 

Your present statement is devoid of logic. If I were to buy a tri-elmar, the $40 shipping costs would not have been disproportionately high.

Ali,I never have people like you in mind.

Alan, it's in NYC. That's New York City, isn't it ? I think that's the only city they have a store in. They are big in online sales though. Here's the site:

 

http://www.adorama.com/catalog.tpl?op=adorama_inside

I intend to buy a hood cap (Part No. 14041) for my 1st version Tri-elmar 28-35-

50 and Adorama has it at a discounted price of $19.95 a piece. However, the

cost of shipping it to me in Malaysia is close to $40.00. I can't justify

paying this amount for shipping this cap. I have received other caps from ebay

transactions and the shipping costs is always between $5-$15.

 

I wonder if anyone is going to the Adorama store and can pick one up for me and

send it to me by USPS. I will bear the full costs in advance of course.

 

I know it is an incredible request for help but .... one never knows.

I would like to reach John Milich too.

Thanks to all for your input. It seems that this small defect in the lens is so consistent that it is being accepted as "normal". :)

 

I have just bought the lens !

I have been offered to buy a Tri-Elmar 35-50-28 Version 1.

 

I have tested it and found that the zoom ring does not turn smoothly on the

28mm-50mm half whereas the turn on the 35mm-50mm half is perfect. The owner

thinks that the problem is due to the lens not been used for a long while.

 

I wonder if that prognosis is correct and whether there could be an underlying

problem which I should take into account when negotiating its price.

 

While I am here I will benefit from any views on the performance of this Tri-

Elmar lens.

Ali, I work a 5-day week, sometimes 6, indoors and so have only the weekends to do other things and photograhy. I envy those who are able to shoot every day.

 

Yann, thanks. I bought a Luigi case for my M8 and had wondered if I could just put the camera and case together into the dry cabinet after use.

 

Adrian, by dry box/cabinet, I mean a box with a built-in dehumidifier. The humidity in the box can be controlled. I keep my cameras and lenses in these boxes all the time unless they are in use. Otherwise fungus may set in.

Adrian, thanks. That is exactly what I wish to find out.