laurie young

Hi

 

I'm visiting Prague in a few weeks, and I was wondering if anyone

could suggest a lab that can take a CF card and burn to a CD. I will

be shooting on a Canon 10D, in RAW format, with a 512 card. So I will

need a lab that just copies the card, and doesn't need the files to be

in JPEG format.

 

Other than that, any advice on what to see and shot while there would

be welcome.

 

Laurie

Hi everyone

 

I just got my EOS 10D (very happy with it) and I remember reading

somewhere that I had to edit the photoshop RAW plug-in before it will

read 10D files, Something to do with changing D60 to 10D with a hex

editor, if someone can point me to more information on this that woudl

be very much apprecaited.

 

Also I'm planning on writing my own program to read in the RAW file

and output the embedded HPEG (I want one that works on the command

line so I can automate a lot of my workflow). Does anyone know how the

JPEG is embedded? I'm hoping that I can just read in the RAW file byte

by byte untill i find the first line of a JPEG file, and then copy all

byets to a new file, untill I reach the last line of a JPEG file.

Anyone got any knowledge of this?

 

Laurie

You can always decouple the AF from the Shutter Button, using CF4 (on film bodies) and I think its CF3 on the D60 (so probably the same on the 10D). Then you can focus, and not recous untill you explicitly want to

I attended a lecture by Phil G once on the software used to run Photo.net as part of the demonstration he "nuked" a user who was being abusive and non-helpful. The admins can do this to anyone and basically it removes everything that is connected to that user, photos, ratings, comments etc.

Before you try something that will cahnge/effect (and possibily damage) your negative. Have a go at Lith printing it.

 

I once underdeveloped some Neopan 400 (rated at 800 and who knows what went wrong on developing) ending up with nearly nothing on the neg, I managed to get a rpitn of it after 20 mins of split grade printing + dodging + burning, but it was a struggle.

 

Then I had a go at lith printing it and I got great results. There is little information on lith printing on the net, but there are soem good books, and a lith developer should have all you need to know in the instructions. I find I get best results with Kentmere Art Classic paper

 

Laurie

I find the same thing on my EOS 30. As does the only other person I know with one. While neither of us are particuarly concerned about it, I don't like the build quality of the camera, based on this problem.

Ah Ha!

 

The problem was I had specifically disabled E-TTL to prevent the slaves from triggering on the studio flashes. I didn't know the D60 only has e-ttl. I tured the flash back to e-ttl and it all works again

 

Thanks

Hi

 

I was doing a shoot yesterday with a new D60 body, and a Metz MZ54-3

flash, and I came across an interesting (and annoying problem). If

the Flash is set to E-TTL or TTL mode, then it simply doesn't fire

(nor does the Flash AF Assist light come on, while the cameras does).

However if the Flash is set to A M or <Strobe> then everything works

fine.

 

My first thought was that there might be a problem with the flash, so

i tested it on an Elan 7e body and it worked fine.

 

The D60 was new (the day before) and when I got it out the box I did

some basic tests, one of which was using this flash in E-TTL mode,

and it worked fine.

 

I'm fairly certain that rather than there being a problem with the

body or the flash, I have accidently activated a "do not use TTL"

option somewhere on the D60. I have reest the Cfn to default, with no

luck. Can someone tell me how to get TTL back?

 

Thanks

 

Laurie

Hi

 

I have recently been given the loan of an Leica R4 for a few days,

but there are some controls I can't quite figure out. The mode dial

has

(m), (A), A, P, T,

I'm guessing m is manual

A is aperture priority

P is program

T is Shutter Priority

But i am not sure about the difference between (A) and A. Is it

something to do with spot vs centre weighted meetering? I checked

them against other cameras, and A seems to agree with meters/other

cameras while (a) seems to be abotu 1.5 stops undeerexposed.

 

Also there is a little circular dial on the body next to the lens

(where most manual SLRs have the shutter timer feature) this rotates

abtou 10 degrees, but seems to have no effect. Can anyone tell me

what this does?

 

Thanks

 

Laurie