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jeremy_wakefield

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Posts posted by jeremy_wakefield

  1. <p>Oh dear! At the risk of sounding totally mad; another change of plan. When I checked other options again and then looked at the RPs sitting in my hall ready for collection I just realised they were the best option for me, even with the expense. Call to delivery company and I'm keeping them.<br>

    I have no idea what has been going on in my mind the last couple of days. Doh!<br>

    Anway, I'm off to the psychiatric forum now </p>

    <p>William</p>

  2. <p>Just to update anyone who is interested and as a courtesy to all who took so much time in helping with replies.</p>

    <p>The RPs arrived but I haven't opened them and decided to send them back to Amazon! I woke up in the morning and realised I had just spent £600 ( $930US) on this kit and was buying them more because I wanted them rather than needed them. I'm not a rich guy and it was pretty hard, on reflection, to justify this expenditure on a non-necessity.</p>

    <p>I have no doubt these are superb items and would do everything I wanted but at the moment I simply can't justify the expense. I will probably either wait until I really, really need them (rather than want them) or invest in a cheaper manual trigger for the time being.</p>

    <p>Once again thanks to you all for your contributions. They were much appreciated</p>

    <p>William</p>

  3. <p>RSmith. Sorry I didn't make myself clear. When I asked about sync speed reduction I meant what was the highest sync speed I could expect with HSS turned off. I know if I stick a 580 on my 5dmk2 I can get 1/200 but this reduces if I fire my studio flashes through my Elinchrom wireless system to 1/125. I wondered if ( without using HSS) i could expect a similar or greater reduction in max sync speed.</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

  4. <p>Wow R Smith! Thank you so much for a greatly informative and well constructed reply I am most grateful. I had absolutely no idea you could do all that with the STE2. I bought mine for a social event I was doing and have only used it a couple of times in the last year. I have never got it to work outside. </p>

    <p>I re-read the manual it came with last night and it is pretty much no more than a brief overview and TBH I learned more useful stuff from your post than said manual. Interestingly a couple of days ago I mailed RP to ask the same question re the STE2 and they told me I could only use it in ETTL and without a group C. I'm assuming they meant that was all I could control from the commander itself. I'm quite happy to walk to the flash and push a couple of buttons because I won't be firing from 100s yards away.</p>

    <p>Anyway I also found that Amazon in the UK sells RPs so I ordered a couple this morning and hopefully they will arrive tomorrow. Expensive, very expensive but when I considered all the points I felt they were the only option which would do ( almost) all I wanted without the risks seemingly associated with PWs.</p>

    <p>Scott, I ordered the book you suggested at the same time so thank you very much for the tip.</p>

    <p>Thanks to all who have contributed, all the replies and point of view were very helpful to me in making my decision.</p>

    <p>William</p>

    <p> </p>

  5. <p>Thanks RSmith:</p>

    <p>"You do not need the Radio Poppers to use the ST-E2 to trigger the Slaves in manual mode. This is an option already available to you. The ST-E2 will trigger "Slave" flashes that have overridden the ETTL mode by holding the "Mode" button for a few seconds which places the Slave in Manual mode."</p>

    <p>Was the bit I didn't know. I couldn't get my flashes to work in manual mode ( didn't know about holding the M button for a few secs ) so assumed they would only do ETTL. Doh! Though in my defence I rechecked and the manual isn't clear on that point.</p>

    <p>Anyway thank you. I am pretty much likely to get the PX set up and use manual by setting the speedlite locally. If the JrX ever appears in Europe then I might add that then.</p>

    <p>Well thank you again. I might end up changing my mind again in the morning but at least I'm a bit wiser than before!</p>

    <p>William</p>

  6. <p>Hi</p>

    <p>Thanks to all for the replies.</p>

    <p>Nadine. Good point. I have only really used flash outdoors so far for taking pictures of people in the very bright sunshine. Always on camera. These have always been close up and using HSS. I realise this isn't going to be helpful if I put the flash a bit further and maybe using the flash off camera the lack of HSS wouldn't be an issue. Not having done it before I'm not sure.<br>

    RSmith. The JRX isn't available here in europe I'm afraid. I wish it was but there you go. I wasn't aware I could use the STE2 to trigger Radio Poppers to work manual flash. I'm certainly interested in that option.Thanks for the information which is new to me.<br>

    Scott. I was roughly working out the possible sync speed as 1/200s is the fastest advertised by Canon for my camera. This is for a speedlite on the camera and I assumed, given my experience with studio lights which is a bit slower and allowing for any delay caused by the wireless system that 1/125s might be reasonable. Maybe I'm wrong and if so I'm glad. It was just a figure plucked out of the ether so to speak but certainly doubtful if I could get more than 1/200s via wireless. Was wondering if something in that ball park would be reasonable really.</p>

    <p>Well thanks folks this is very helpful and I'm very grateful to you all for your help</p>

    <p>William</p>

    <p> </p>

  7. <p>Thanks Scott.<br>

    I take your point re the pocket wizards, especially since one of my flashes is the 580EX and another a 580EX II The Cybersincs seem like a very popular set but their not widely available here in the UK. I will look into them but I know they will be way more expensive over here and might not represent such value as in the US.<br>

    The thing that is still bugging me a little about the dumb trigger is that I can't use high speed synch with them. I've never been a big flash user outside and the only time I've really used it is for fill flash in very bright conditions. In these cases I've just about always used HSS. I wouldn't be able to do that with such triggers. </p>

    <p>William</p>

  8. <p>Hello again. I've done some more pondering here and I'm unsure as to my next move. I've found the following considerations:</p>

    <p>1. Initially I veered towards the RP but then the idea of having to put on a 580 on the camera as commander and with a RP controller on the top to boot isn't an attractive one. I could just use my STE2 but then would be stuck with ETTL. (I know I wanted the option of ETTL but if I had to choose just one mode it would have to be manual)</p>

    <p>2. I read a lot of worrying stuff about PW Flex "frying" Canon flashes. Even though it isn't an everyday occurrence this doesn't seem to be only a couple of isolated cases either. It would seem the PW boosts the power of the flash and it can't handle it! Not reassuring at all.</p>

    <p>3. PW Plus 2 gear might be the answer. I am assuming this doesn't attempt to boost the flaw power in any way? I'd be stuck with 1/125 to sync my 5Dmk2 which isn't great outdoors. I'm guessing it might not be a huge problem mind you.</p>

    <p>So am I right in my assumptions re the PW Plus 2 and would experienced outdoor flash people say the low sync speed limit might be an issue/</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

     

  9. <p>Thanks for the replies folks. All much appreciated. The thing that puts me off PW is the idea of having to put a "sock" thing on the flash to make it work with the product they made it to work with!</p>

    <p>I haven't heard people complaining much about RP issues TBH but I will look further. Are there particular problems?</p>

    <p>As far as my needs are concerned I do use ETTL and would want that ability and also living in the UK, my choices are somewhat different.</p>

    <p>Maybe I need to do some more research and thanks so much to everyone for their help so far </p>

    <p>William</p>

  10. <p>I am in the market for a wireless set up for my Canon flashes ( 580EX II, 580 EX I, 430 EX II, with STE2). I'm a bit undecided whether to go for PW or RP and I know there are a few views either way. My main question is whether or not the most suitable PW solution would be the Canon specific Flex TT5 or the Plus II options.</p>

    <p>I am put off the Canon one by the interference problem which was widely discussed a while back. I believe a sock was provided to stick over the flash and I wonder if this is still the case. Can anyone tell me?</p>

    <p>Also I keep reading about reliability concerns re the PWs outside.</p>

    <p>I'm therefore veering towards the RP solution but would welcome anyone putting me right if I've made some incorrect assumptions. Similarly if anyone has experience with these systems I'd be grateful for a bit of advice.e</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

  11. <p>Hi</p>

    <p>I have recently upgraded to Lion and have also upgraded the drivers for my Epson R2880 via Apple software update. All is working fine however, I notice the Epson profiles which used to be in an easily accessible folder in the users Library is now in the following folder:</p>

     

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    <p>/Library/Printers/EPSON/InkjetPrinter2/ICCProfiles/SPR800_W.profiles/Contents/Resources</p>

    <p>I now want to put some 3rd party paper profiles in my mac ( Permajet ) which used to be in the user Library colour profile folders if memory serves me, but I have no idea where to put these now. I would guess that I should use the above folder but for some reason I can't find it on my hard drive.<br>

    I can access the system Library in Lion by pressing alt and using the "Go" menu in the finder but I cannot find the users library so maybe these Epson profiles are there?<br>

    So two questions really. Should I put the profiles in the users library or not and if so how do I find the users library.</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

    </td>

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  12. <p>Interesting and thanks for the review, Patrick. I'm waiting for the new iMatch software in September as I get a free upgrade having bought my i1 display 2 in Feb this year.</p>

    <p>I was considering upgrading to the Display Pro but its quite a lot of money (compared to free!)</p>

    <p>I also am considering getting the basiccolor software for the i1display2. Not sure if this is better, the same or inferior to either of the X-Rite offerings?</p>

    <p>William</p>

  13. <p>Thank you for the clarification re the Spectraview software. As I said, if X-Rite get their act together and provide a workable profile come September I will stick with them.</p>

    <p>I will save a profile in Snow Leopard before I install Lion. Once I have it in the memory stick and installed Lion, could you please tell me into which folder I should put it?<br>

    Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

  14. <p>All right. Having done some research it seems that both the Spectraview II and BasICColor software are identical. I also notice that the new software from X-Rite is due in September. I will probably wait until then rather than buy more software!</p>

    <p>I wonder though, if I do a profile with Snow Leopard, then save that profile to a USB stick, then install Lion, should I then be able to install the profile with the new Lion OS by simply sticking it into the right folder from the stick? Seems that I should but I would welcome advice </p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

  15. <p>Thanks for the responses folks. Much appreciated.<br>

    I am glad to see a fix is on the way although it will be a month or two away. Not to worry at least it is there. This is better news than what I had originally been told!<br>

    Re Howard's post. I seem to recall that when I bought my NEC monitor there was some NEC specific software which received very favourable reviews but, frustratingly for me, was only sold in the US. Can you, Howard, or anyone else, tell me if this - Spectraview II software ( IIRC ) - is the same as the BasICColor Display 4 software sold in Europe and mentioned by you above?<br>

    Thanks<br>

    William</p>

  16. <p>Hi</p>

    <p>I have an eye one i1 display 2 colorimeter and need the iMatch software to calibrate with it. I want to upgrade to OSX Lion but find that it is not compatible with the X-Rite software at the moment. Worse, I have heard that X-Rite do not intend to make it compatible in the future and want customers to upgrade to a much more expensvie calibration software package which isn't released yet.</p>

    <p>A search on the internet hasn't really produced any hope in this area and so I'm looking for alternative software which will run the colorimeter. For obvious reasons, I'm not keen to invest any more case in X-Rite products.</p>

    <p>Can anyone help with suggestions please?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William Scott</p>

  17. <p>I seem to recall reading in some magazine about upsizing files for image libraries using genuine fractals or similar. This was a few years back but I couldn't understand why this was desirable in any way.</p>

    <p>Anyway thanks for the advice folks. I usually shoot RAW and save for JPEG to print. I have only ever bothered about image size if I was looking to save files on a hard drive with little capacity</p>

    <p>William</p>

  18. <p>Hi<br /><br />I have a bit of a basic question. I typically produce RAW files of around the 25-30 megabyte range with my 5D mk2. I notice some people saying they want files of a minimum of 50 megabyte or even larger for their image sites.<br /><br />I don't understand this. If I make my file larger what am I gaining and what is the best way to achieve the size these sites want?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>William</p>

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