mysteryonion

<p>Yes, there is a spring that sits under the keyhole plate. I think the shaft of the release pin is with ribs. There is a long end and a short end. The short goes up to the release button and the long end is sheathed by the spring. You will need it as I recall, the film advance uses the up action to put the breaks on the film advance when the shutter is cocked.</p><div></div>

Your 50+ years Minox could break trying to pull 50exp. roll! If your running it tight to the max thickness, you will jam before you get to 50 or 43 for that matter! Caution!!!

First chill the lens to near freezeing! Use a hot towel to grip the adapter.

Never for the LX data that I'm aware of. Might there be a Japan market only with DX contacts?...Don't know.

Hey, go for it! However, make your you have proper spanners to open in. I don't have the same lens (Takumar 2.0,1.8,1.4 50mm only), but do read up on the manner of getting under the external layer of the lens. The face plate in front is an tricky if stuck. I'm too cheap to get the rubber cup device to remove the face plate so I use a slightly thick set of surgical gloves to friction open the face plate. I've completely disassembled my M42 lenses and clean them out. The old style F1.8 50mm (reverse aperture) had a sluggish diaphragm due to someone spraying is prior to my purchase (ebay). I had to get right down to the blades just to give it a proper cleaning.

 

You should also post this as a new question, if not already, so other folks that own the same lens might chime in.

Wow! Good to hear that did it. Congrat to you!

All seriousness aside, my feeble memory recalls that a bunch of limits, for sale, at a camera convention in Europe only? I am not recalling the "eye" badge, as it might have been a round badge and a little Olympic spirit mark splashed on. On the Pentax site, they mention the production number of 2.5 million and some time towards the end of the run, they might have come up with a special badged edition. Anyone recall around 1991?

Just in case... this is a real K1000 35th Anniversary edition issued in 1994

 

http://www.aohc.it/oddse2.htm

 

nifty site too.

Funny, kinda looks like a K1000 with a case badge added to it? I remember finding someone selling those badges as if surplus.

 

...you don't need no stinking badges...sorry.

Richard's direction is right and the Lighter fluid too. I would caution the use of polish remover it may be too slow to dry depending on brand and blend. If you over apply, it may get away from your control. You wouldn't want any of it in the shutter curtain. It could unglue something. I recall Lighter fluid is faster at evaporating and I've not had any trouble with it. If you had not had the chance to look through the pdf of the K1000 repair manual do look in to note about mechanism involved in releasing the shutter. Familiarize yourself if not yet.<div></div>

after...<div></div>

Do look into this if not already

http://www.pentax-manuals.com/

 

and as Don instructed...

Hi Leigh, I am assuming that the camera shows no signs of damage...you dents, dings, gashes? Also screws missing or damaged? Could be the shutter cocking mechanism did not fully lock., but the film advance did. I have an old S1a that hand a mirror/prism assembly returned to the body incorrectly and ended that way..

It may look silly, but black thin foam cut to the size you want. This can be purchased from craft or fabric store. secure with small plastic card stock cut to fit the groves on eye piece. Peter is right that the diopter eyepiece is a helpful item. If your trying to just "blot" out the stray light in front of you just around the top of the camera, then this is worth a try before you try to find an eyecup that works or chuck the camera. I've on occasion used a little piece of black cardboard to help with some stray light on my glasses. I've had a foam version, but liked the cardboard for my needs.

Stefan, You sound like your going to do quite well at learning how to repair.

 

I am a pessimistic person, also have had to undue so called repairs on many of my cameras that I've found as bargains. Looking at the symptoms I would eliminate the direct forms of trouble. Yes, the tensioning might be way off, but check for obstructions first. Check around for over greasing. I've had my MX (purchased new) CLA by some outfit and the "hosed" the camera and lost my screen. Years later was when I found all that dried gunk they left for me. After I got it back (1991ist), I pretty much stopped using it due to poor shutter accuracy. Its much better now.

 

Check out this site, using an audio recording software(free)and rigging up a light sensor to make a nice shutter speed tester. check link:

http://www.kyphoto.com/classics/testequipment.html

 

super.

Some info please.

 

Which era is your K1000? All metal or plastic skin?

Is there a visible buckle in the 1st or 2nd curtain?

Does the it have any bumps, baths, falls?

Last time it was CLA?

 

Thanks

My mistake...I've tried to cut a lot of film once...

These are some things I've learned too late in my attempt.

 

first: make sure the take-up spool is aligned with source spool

second: take-up spool must have a way of keep the finish cut film aligned.

third: film my benefit from a guide sprocket just after cutter.

fourth: slick non-scratch pad should be employed under cutters.

fifth: a tensioning gate (felt?)on sides not middle, prior to cutting.

 

I've taken some precautions in my contraption, but the film ran out of alignment after ten feet. So when I stretch the film out flat on a straight long board, it was curved slightly. This explained the problems during loading of the cartridge. Sometime I'll try again... Good Luck with yours.

I have the S1a, SV, H1a, Honeywell, K1000, MX, LX and and even the Auto110...no digital yet...maybe until the film runs out. Every camera in my collection I've opened and fix at one time or another the LX is an exception I've only opened the asa dial to clean. You can't fix much in any digital camera. Film still look super to me.<div></div>

Jon, I am still currently a LX user and I have some info for you...If it is still of use. "there has to be film in the camera" is because of the metering sensor is located behind the lens and under the mirror. It points in the direction of the film, getting its information from light the bounces off the film. It sometime can get a little fooled if the films coating is darker than average. In the old days of Ektar color print, I got a little overexposure of 1/3 stop or so. If however you are really way off..."on manual turned out almost black", this could indicate issues with the asa/iso dial. If you did not set the compensation dial (little button/lever next to asa dial and the 4x,2x,1x,1/2x,1/4x upper dial) then your circuit underneath the dials are set up wrong or dirty. The manual mode relies on a slightly different circuit to be active and may explain the difference in exposure. Double check with this simple test. Cap the camera and set the asa dial to 3200 and carefully cover up stray light from the eyepiece. You should get a reading very low say around the last two dots at the bottom (yellow/orange) if you get a high (green)reading, then it time to have the meter checked. If you can't turn the dial to 3200, then you are in the compensation setting and you should turn it back to 1x the viewfinder will confirm that you are in comp mode with a little red flag on the upper right over A, it pops out of the way when back to normal.

You can learn a lot from servicing your own lenses, but read up as much as possible and have as many tools that will make the job easier. All my lenses are CLA myself, but over time I've learned that some tools are must haves first. If you would like to go the DIY root, invest in some proper lens spanners that work for thin, thick and inside, outside rings. micro-tools.com sells some good stuff. A few free info sites are out there will give some insight. Have a clean area set up for your work, filter air if possible. Otherwise you will end up with more dust than you started. Also, don't overlook the tiny ball bearing that is under the aperture ring...is hard to find when it falls on the floor.

I'm sorry if I'm not fully following, but the camera when set to lets say aperture of 11 or 16 or 22 and the shutter is tripped, you don't see the little opening of the aperture? By the way, not just re-badged Pentax, but Ricoh too were sold under Sears. Are all the prints also marked with a little shaded strip along the bottom...an under exposed part? As if a shadow? I your Sear camera equipped with a DoF preview that might be jammed? On some examples the lever may interfere with the travel of the mirror and jam the aperture from fully completing travel.

 

...Just my two cents...

If this helps...

Make note of the red window inside. It should have a sort of seal that encircles it, a rim or plate that comes in contact with the paper backing. I've worked with a few that did not(cheap cameras). They are subject to leaks because there is a gap from window to edge of paper backing allowing the light to creep into the film. In a few cases, I've built up the window to contact the film paper and was careful not to hinder the film or distort the relation to the film plane. Foam, tape, slick black paper. Your camera should already provide the proper seal needed?