efusco

Paul,

So far my pictures have been very limited, mostly experimental snaps to test features and functions. In a thread below I posted 2 of my original shots just after getting the camera. More shots are not likely to be forthcoming since my wife insists on wrapping the camera and putting it under the tree since it is "officially" my Christmas present! There are quite a few photos posted by folks at DP review also.

Illka,

I thought I did a good job of explaining my rationale for my support of the built in flash. There is no question that for a portrait and "Most" other flash needs that my SB-800 is and will be prefered.

 

I'm sorry if I implied that the built in flash was an adequate substitute for a compatible speedlight. I thought I outlined the things for which the built in one would be handy, but I'll list them again for your clarification:

1)trigger for off-camera remote speedlight

2)fill-in flash for daylight work when harsh shadows are present and a seperate speedlight is not available.

3)Situations where getting the speedlight on camera in a timely fashion is not possible.

4)Situations where it is impossible or very inconvenient to have the accessory flash...ever do any mountaineering?

For anyone still waiting, or still considering, or just bored out of

their mind enough to care what I think.....

 

1)Become concerned when I failed to find the pre-printed warranty

service card and hard copy mail-in card for the warranty. Searched

the house frantically in case I'd misplaced it but it was not to be

found. Called the camera shop who checked another box and said there

was none in there either. Further reassurance came from Nikon

directly that it wasn't need, only a copy of the sales reciept. Maybe

this is standard, but it's been 2 years since I bought a camera and

the lens I bought at the same time did have these and it seemed

logical that the same warranty process would apply.

 

2)I finished reading the manual--a lot of stuff in there most of which

I'm sure I won't remember. Seems that all the juiciest details are

always hidden at the bottom of a page and hard to find later. And

there's a lot to know/learn about this camera. Moving up to this from

the D70 is a bit bigger of a step than I'd imagined and the menu

options are dramaticly more than I'd expected. I've set things up how

I think I'll most often use them for now, but haven't yet gone back to

store my various custom settings--I think there are 4 user

customizable 'banks' in the "Menu Bank"--didn't even realize that was

there until I got to the end of the manual.

 

3)I think that Function button is going to be handy. I wish it had a

little different texture than the DOF preview button as the location

is more where I'd expect the DOF preview to be and they feel identical

and neither is even labled. I'm sure with time and use I'll get used

to their locations. That button is just one example of the high

degree of flexibility in setting up the camera to one's own needs. I

guess it's one of the benefits I knew I'd get from a higher end body

than the D70, but only truely appreciated once I started setting the

camera up.

 

4)Non-CPU lens--somehow when I'd previously read that the D2X was

compatible with non-CPU lenses I thought it was nice, but that the

practical application of such would be more cumbesome than it was

worth. Honestly I didn't even know that the D200 was going to be

compatible with non-CPU lenses. Once I got to that section I thought

"heck, I'll grab my old 50mm/1.4 and just set it up to try out."

Dang! I'm glad I did! It was quite easy to set up and it works

perfectly. F-stop is read nicely, focus is easy to set in the

improved viewfinder (compared to D70) and the availability of matrix

metering and TTL flash with a non-CPU lens was something I hadn't even

appreciated would ever be possible. Now one of my favorite creative

lenses will be easy to throw on and use any time.

 

5)Still trying to decide what I want to do about the Auto-ISO. I

chose not to use it on the D70, but I currently have the D200 set up

to use it. I guess I'm concerned it'll go to ISO 200 at times I would

prefer 100 before I even realize it's doing it. I think I'll just

play with it for now and see how it works out. I don't like giving up

that control, but one issue I've always had with the DSLRs and never

had with film is forgetting to reset the ISO. If I do one shoot

inside with flash at ISO400 then the next time I'm outside shooting

scenics I often get several shots or even the entire shoot in before I

remember that I hadn't reset the ISO. I'm hoping the auto-ISO will

substitute well for my senility.

 

6)Built in speed-light nay-sayers. Some folks seem to see that thing

as a label that says "I'm not a real pro". Well hell, I bet a lot of

"real pros" would love to have that little stobe on there. Be it as a

trigger for a remote speedlight, for a little fill flash or for the

occasional special affect (repeating strobe) it's there. Heck no it

won't substitute for a real speed-light for times when that's needed,

but there are an aweful lot of times that having that speedlight

mounted or carrying it along is impractical or impossible and the

built in light is a nice convenience. IMO the DxX series bodies ought

to have one of these too, considering the price of the camera and the

convenience of the feature.

 

7)I'm exceptionally pleased...the first time in a long time that I've

felt this way with Nikon since the digital era has taken off. I can't

honestly say how well this camera compares to the 20D (suspect it's a

bit better), but it doesn't really matter to me. This body will last

me for many years (I'm estimating 4-5 yrs) before the inevitable urge

to upgrade to something new and improved. Pros or pro-wannabes can

poo-poo this if they wish, but it's the rare PJ or sports guy that's

going to need anything better on a regular basis and this is one hell

of a good camera for an advanced amature like myself.

 

Anyone still awake?

Thanks for listening/reading.

Thanks guys. I'm wondering about the CA too.

There are areas in focus ok on both shots, but they are hand held and there was a decent little breeze blowing....

 

That's my story and I'm sticking to it!!

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/efusco/image/53612442/original">image 1</a>

<p><a href="http://www.pbase.com/efusco/image/53612641">image 2</a>

 

<p>Warning, both are LARGE images. Both are JPG "normal" ISO100 no adjustment...straight out of the camera. 11am direct sunlight hand held. Don't make any decisions about the camera based on just a glance at these. I'm charging the battery and won't have any more time today to fiddle around with the camera. By the time I do I'm sure some of our more expert testers/posters will have all the stuff up you want.

 

<p>BTW, these are both sideways--the auto-rotation doesn't translate to pbase and I didn't want to affect the shots by using the pbase rotation tool.

Ok, I've got it in hand. Will try to grab a few quick shots to post. Nice solid build, beautiful display.

 

Had to pick up a 10.5mm DX while I was there....wife's gonna kill me.

Just got the call from my local store...I"m #3 and they got 5 in...was going to wait until this afternoon...but I may need to make the trip into town!

 

Unfortunately no vertical grips until January...bummer.

Are you specifically looking at AF lenses for some reason? Have you played with any of them in a store or anything?

 

If you plan to keep/stick with your FM2 you certainly don't need to pay for an AF lens. Also, many (most?/all?) AF lenses have a less than desireable feel to the focus ring compared to manual lenses. I usually find them to be a little less precise and sloppy to manually focus.

 

If you don't need an AF lens now or in the very near future I suggest sticking with some nice used manual focus lenses...there are a plethora of them on the market now for good prices and I suspect you'll be more satisfied with them for the above stated reasons than you will be with an AF lens.

--evan

It's a great lens, I happen to have one on sale at the better known internet auction site that I'll vouch for being in excellent condition.

 

My only complaint with it is the moving front element...something I find annoying when using a polarizer. It is extremely sharp and the macro function, though clumsy, is not bad if you can't have the real deal.

Jeroen,

I think Shun makes an excellent point. Somehow the "move your feet" thing has become a mantra of the prime lens-or-die folk. There are just too many situations where moving your feet is simply not the best thing to do to get the best shot or it's simply not possible to do b/c you can't move either farther back (wall or people behind you) or further forward (moving into an animal's territory, in a blind, or on a cliff edge).

 

Zooms covering the necessary range are essential to many of us that shoot in a huge variety of situations. I know the good stuff about primes, even own 2 myself. But the zooms are my work horses and I'll never give them up.

How about a 17-55/2.8 and a 80-400 VR. You get good range, 2 lenses, reasonable cost and reasonable quality. you get a decently sharp lens with the 80-400 out to the 300mm range you were looking at anyway and a much sharper lens for your closer range stuff.

 

Find your limits with those then look at some monster cost lens like the 300/2.8VR.

Neil,

Think about this. You bought a $5k camera....$5k. Why? Presumably b/c you are an experienced photographer with a need for the best performance, durability, hiqh quality image output needs, etc.

 

Just like you can't expect good pictures with a cheap lens. You must also have good quality software for post-processing. It's part of the game with digital. Get either Capture 4.2 or CS2...or, ideally, both. The cost is nominal compared to the body and they're essential equipment for quality image output.

Is the lens capable of focusing up close? (how close are you talking?)

Is the Limit/Full switch on the lens set to limit? (if equipt)

The N80 has notoriously poor low light focusing ability--make sure the AF assist light is set to "ON" (custom settings)--that'll help a little.

 

It certainly isn't outside the realm of possibility that there's a problem with the camera, but I suspect you're asking it to do something the lens isn't capable of. Will it manual focus for you at the same distance?

For a slightly less terse response let me suggest that you do some formal testing for a backfocus problem. Use your Nikkor lens first since it should be 'perfect'.

 

There is a focus test sheet here:

http://www.photo.net/learn/focustest/scale45.jpg

 

You set it up at a 45 degree angle, focus carefully on the center at your largest aperture then look at the photo to see where the image is actually in sharpest focus. If it is dead center with the Nikkor there's no problem with the D70. You can retest with the Sigma and Quantray and see if they're off. If all 3 are off then you may need to send the body back to have the back-focus problem fixed...this isn't unheard of.

 

That said, I think Nikon's response is appropriate unless and until you've found that the problem is consistant with all 3 lenses.

--evan

Yea, Shun, that's the quandry. I have an SB-28 and the SB-800, plans to buy a D2X this summer and a fully functional speedlight would be nice (I love using the uptilted head with that little built in reflector), but $100 for something so minor is hard to swallow...still, a replacement SB-800 isn't cheap either. Perhaps I could get a SB-600 as my new 'on-camera' unit and make the 800 the slave to save a couple bucks.

 

Oh well, thanks all for the advice. If the saga has an exciting ending I'll post it here.

Or maybe not.... APS phone estimate is $99! Looks like I'll be skipping my mocha for a few days to pay for this. ;-)

Good Idea Shun....

Edward,

Can you tell me where you got the price of $35 for the repair? I did, indeed, contact Nikon Service and the first reply suggested a minimum cost, with shipping, of about $120 for a "moderate repair". When I replied and enquired as to that high cost they replied: "The least amount is $71.00 (which is a check and clean)". That did no include shipping.

 

I'm not a complete cheapskate, but, again, this is a very simple piece of plastic that simply slides in a groove and $81+ is steep for such simple and commonly broken part...IMO.

Ok, thanks for the advice...guess I'll send it in. FWIW, I'm not really concerned about the high voltage thing... voltage alone is not the issue..TASERS use about 50,000 volts. It's the amperage that kills you and the amperage from a few AA batteries is going to be extremely low. Also, the capacitors are easily discharged by a hit or two of the 'test' button after removing the batteries.

 

The micro sensor issues and such are a bigger concern. I guess what I was hoping for is that someone would say "sure, the new diffuser snaps right in place just like the battery door without taking anything apart and costs only $5."

 

Since that is not the case I'll send it in at some convenient point in the near future.

Thank Gerald, but I'm interested in first hand experiences. The cost of shipping, repair, etc will be relatively high I'm sure. I'd prefer a 'do it yourself' repair if someone is aware of that option. Likewise if someone can confirm that it can not be done outside an authorized repair facility that would be useful as well and I could break down and contact Nikon USA...but frankly I consider that a last resort.

Anyone know what's involved in fixing a broken off wide-angle diffuse

on an SB-800. I accidently grabbed and snapped off the diffuser the

other day and would sure like it back.

 

I do know about changing the settings so that the auto-zoom still

works and that has been done. Is this a part I can order and snap

back in place myself or will it require an expensive repair job at Nikon?

FWIW, I show 159 shots remaining using the RAW + Basic JPG setting on an empty 1GB CF. I agree, the menues are fine in the new version but I never had a problem with the old.

I know I'm tickled about a more accurate/realistic counter when shooting raw. It'll be interesting to see if it adapts as shots are taken or if it just counts down from where it starts or what. I shoot raw all the time and could definately get closer to the end. First impression is that it must be pretty close to start with as it counts down 1 by 1 as you shoot.

 

I agree with doing the firmware one at a time (A and then B). It wasn't clear to do that in the instructions and suggested you could put them both on the CF at the same time, but then only B updated and I had to re-format and reload A to get it to update.

 

No bugs or crashes so far.

Eclipse is widely available, find it, do not use ethanol based.

 

As stated, the AC adapter isn't essential, but you should be sure your battery is fully charged.

 

I can't imagine that a LensPen is a good idea. It contains a minor abrasive (very fine carbon) and there is no way to be certain that the tip of the pen stays perfectly clean. One tiny piece of grit on it will ruin your CCD. Further, I'd be very worried about the carbon filling up the 'holes' in the AA filter over time and degrading image quality...not sure if that can or would happen, but it seems feasable.

I'm with Jim. Learn how to use a swab system. There are any number of sites with great instructions. It takes 30 seconds to do (couple minutes more with getting set up) and will be more effective and ultimately better for you.

 

If there had been something 'bad' in that moist stuff you sprayed onto your CCD and it had dried just that drying could have damaged the CCD. If you'd have known how to clean it properly you could immediately have done so, before the substance had a chance to do any damage.

 

This is not something you should be afraid of, just like cleaning a camera lens it needs to be done carefully and properly, but it needs to be done.