efusco

mea culpa, I see the "new posts" link now...never once noticed that before....

Most web forums have positive and negative features.

1)IMO the weird 600pixel limit is frustrating for posting images. Other sites I use will resize.

 

2)The necessity of knowing HTML is frustrating when desiring to post links...this is where BB has a nice benefit.

 

3)I've been on this forum for a LONG time and had no idea there was a way to get it to show the new posts...Why not a big link at the top of the forum page that says "Show threads with new posts"? How simple and convenient would that be.

 

4)Alternatively if there could be flags on threads with new posts and another flag for posts I've read that would help.

 

5)One poster said that he feels the least important posts float to the top and the more uncommon or more diffucult ones thus get pushed to the bottom. IMO this is what happens anyway. If I don't come here for 3 or 4 days, which happens at times, I'll never see question. I'm not sure what the solution to that is except for the 'see new posts' option which will, hopefully, bring that thread up on my list....again, another reason for a convenient and obvious link to the "view new posts" feature at the top of the forum page.

 

6)Stickies for the FAQs would be great... It can be tricky to find the BGLOD info one needs with a search, where a sticky would simplify that process dramatically, for example. Temporary stickies for Press releases for new cameras and such could also be benefitial to avoid the repeatative posts since people don't see the prior ones once they get pushed way down the thread list.

 

I don't think the OP or anyone else has called into question the quality of this forum as far as the people involved or the information that can be obtained, so it's a little frustrating that people have taken up that point...that's not the issue, the issue is the software and set-up of the interface to the excellent information and resources and how it could be improved.

when you look in the view finder look at the exposure meter...it will tell you if you have enough light for your chosen aperture. If not then you need to open up the aperture or add light (ie use a strob) or use a higher ISO rating (which will, of course, increase the noise).

 

Realize that using aperture priority you probably will have adequate exposure no matter what ISO or aperture or available light you choose, but the shutter speed will be very slow...maybe on the order of 1/15th second or slower....thus you'll need to use a solid tripod, consider mirror lock up, remote release, etc.

 

If you insist on staying in full auto (why'd you buy a D200 if you're going to do such a thing?) then just add light with some sort of strobe or set your ISO to 1600...you'll get some more DOF, but at the expense of noise in your image.

The extra length on the 17-55 made it worth it to me...sold my 17-35...I just didn't have anything to cover the gap to my 80-200 except the 35-70, but with the 17-55 the gap is narrow enough that I also sold the 35-70.

Sergio,

This sounds like a completely different issue to me...that's not just passive draining. First make sure the NiMH's you're using are good, if even one of them is bad that could be the problem...maybe try a totally different/new set of NiMH batteries.

 

If you still have the same problem then I'd contact Nikon and see about sending the grip in for repair.

Take it. You could just as easily drop the camera in a nice climate controlled, dust-free studio next week.

 

If the D200 is your tool of choice for photography and you're going to a photogenic place where you would be disappointed if you missed some fantastic photos b/c you were ill equipt then you'd be disappointed. Take the camera, protect it from the sand and dust as best you can, but use it.

No offense sir, but the "little problem" is that you don't understand the reciprocal relationship b/w aperture and shutter speed. I strongly urge you to buy a book on basic photography so that you can, at least, understand this relationship.

 

In the mean time you'll get more consistant results by sticking to Automatic or Program mode. With a flash you can also use manual but be prepared to have some under exposed indoor photos with smaller (higher number) apertures.

"The shift to SD memory is a good move. It is suprising how many people have managed to cram a CF card in backwards."

 

Nikon almost promotes that possibility. The card goes in with the back toward you on the D70 and with the front toward you on the D200...pretty easy to mix that up when switching b/w two cameras. I've not done it as I'm pretty gentle with the cards, but I would like to see a move away from those pins...just begging to be damaged IMO.

CF=Compact Flash

There are little holes in the CF card and inside your camera where the card inserts are the corresponding pins that allow the camera and card to connect electronically. The OP is talking about one of those pins getting bent and thus not connecting properly to the CF card.

Fantastic...Don't think I could ever do it, but I love the idea.

Yup, it's my primary lens on the D200.

I sold my very much loved 17-35 for the 17-55. That added range really makes it a much more versatile lens (25.5-52.5 vs 25.5-82.5) and range. Paired with my 80-200 it leaves only a small gap uncovered in the range. I'd say that for candid work the 17-55 is my primary lens 90% of the time. With the 17-35 there were frequent issues of being able to zoom in adequately across a room.

The Nikon response to my comment that daily removal after use was ridiculous....

 

"Evan: I understand your comment but this is detailed in the MB-D200 manual as a necessary precaution. I will forward your comments to the QA department. When I use the MB-D200 I do not remove the batteries after use. I open the door and release the battery latch so the battery is not in contact with the terminals. When I need the unit I just push the door closed again and both batteries engage. Perhaps that will be more convenient for you. In this situation there is no battery drain and I have left the adapter like this for about 4 or 5 days. I never go without shooting for 2 weeks or more (but that's me).

 

Thank You

Chris"

Chris,

No third party batteries...OEM only.

 

And I agree, how ridiculous to remove batteries for a single day of non-use. I replied to the Nikon site with that same comment.

got a reply, if you can call it that....

 

"Evan: The manual for the D200 details "Remove all batteries when the MBD200 is not in use. " You should not be leaving batteries in the MB-D200 if it will not be used within 24hours.

 

Thank You

Chris"

 

Ok, so I missed that one line in the D200 manual, but even if I'd seen it I'd have blown it off thinking it was one of Nikon's CYA statements (like use only Nikon lenses and only the 4 approved CF cards, etc.)...how pointless to not be able to leave the batteries in.

Twice now I've found my D200 unusable due to completely drained

batteries. This was after about 1 to 1 1/2 weeks of non-use with 2

fully or nearly fully charged batteries in the MB-D200 grip. And yes,

the camera was in the off position the whole time.

 

I didn't have a problem with battery drain without the grip and am

currently running an 'experiment' without the grip and one of the

batteries just in the camera to try to be sure it isn't just the

camera draining the batteries.

 

I submitted this issue to Nikon but have yet to hear back anything

(other than the automated response).

 

Interested in hearing similar experiences, tips, suggestions for

determining the cause of the problem, etc.

Thx

I have the MH-18 charger that came with the D70 and EN-EL3 battery and

I now, also, have an MH-18a charger that came with the D200 and

EN-EL3e battery.

 

The EN-EL3e (for D200) fits on both chargers while the EN-EL3 only

fits on the MH-18 (non-a) charger.

 

Will the MH-18 (non-a) charger safely and adequately charge the

EN-EL3e battery?

 

Are they any other changes/improvements to the MH-18a that would make

it any more desireable as a charger than the MH-18a?

Thank You Chris!!

Indeed, if you press and hold the AF-ON button the AF zones shift as you turn the subcommand (front) dial!

 

It's going to take some practice to get used to switching zones that way but it's much less cumbersome than trying to get to that pad.

Just a bit of a heads up regarding the MB-D200 that I hadn't seen

noted here. I got my vertical/battery grip in Friday and was

immediately impressed. I truely missed the convenience of the

vertical release and vertically command & subcommand dials.

 

The grip fits on nicely enough though not quite as seemlessly as I'd

expected for a OEM product. The vertical command and subcommand dials

a slightly "Higher" and not quite as accessible as those on the body,

but I think it's something I'll get used to pretty quickly.

 

The biggest disappointment is that there's just no comfortable way to

reach the AF zone selector pad with your thumb...it's just too far

away without sticking you thumb in your nose and changing your grip on

the vertical release completely. I assume they did the best they

could and designed the body with the pad in the ideal place for most

users, but don't expect to be able to quickly change AF areas while

using the vertical shutter release...it ain't gonna work that way.

--evan

I identified one dead pixel on mine and am watching for a potential issue with Purple Fringing that may or may not exist. Something to keep an eye on though.

Thanks again for everyone's (varied) suggestions.

I took the camera by my photo store today where I bought it. Not suprisingly they had no cameras on hand for which to exchange. One of the salesmen there that I know (took care of as a patient once actually) took my name and number down allegedly to call me if/when they get some in again.

 

I guess I'll just wait a while...I don't feel a big urge to rush but do want it fixed before my Ireland trip this Spring.

I think I will wait a little bit. I don't think that one pixel's going to be a big deal and I want to make sure no other issues crop up. I do need to get this off and back before May though for a big planned trip then. And knowing Nikon's typical turn around time......

<p>I noticed an unexpected black spec on an early image out of my D200

the other day. Wasn't sure what it was so I did a little research on

hot,dead, & stuck pixels.

 

<p>Using the D200's Multiple Exposure feature (shooting menu) to

create an "ubermask" (see: <a

href="http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~jduffy/699/" target="_blank">

http://www.cs.wisc.edu/~jduffy/699/</a> } by shooting a 10 exposure shot.

 

<p>This confirmed that I do, indeed, have a single dead pixel on my

brand new camera. See photos at: <a

href="http://www.pbase.com/efusco/d200" target="_blank">

http://www.pbase.com/efusco/d200</a>

 

<p>My question. Is this a common finding on a new camera. Should I

immediately send the camera in or just deal with the dead pixel.

Should I expect it to be perfect 'out of the box'? I don't wanna

over-react but I also don't wnat to have to deal with this dead pixel

forever if it's something folks general have fixed early on.

 

<p>comments, suggestions, advice?<div></div>

Ok, my first thought was "what a wierdo" for keeping a diary. But it's more of a running review and a very well done one at that.

 

I've got a subject of about that same age around the house!