glen_berry
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Posts posted by glen_berry
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<p>While not new to photography, I can unequivocally say I don't truly understand what influences the WB. I shoot a great deal of high school sports in my forner high school gym with a D300 - I initially used the ExpoDisc to set my WB, then saved the setting(s) for that venue. I'm hoping to photograph an event in a different venue this weekend - I'm going to try shooting RAW - which is something I've never done. I have to admit I don't know what factors influence my WB. If I set my custom WB in the new venue, will changing my shutter speed from 1/500 to 1/60, impact my WB? Likewise, if I shoot at f2.8 and change to f6 - will that affect it? Or if I change the ISO? I've checked the archives - while there may be some info there, I can't find it. Any help would be appreciated. TIA..</p>
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<p>You may want to position yourself at ice level on, or near the goal line. Most of the good action will be around the goal area. You can pre-focus on the goal-tender, because there's a pretty good chance there will be several players crashing the net. One other suggestion - shoot with both eyes open. That will give you an opportunity to watch the player on the point as he leans into a slap shot, while at the same time watching the goal-tender thru the viewfinder. I tried shooting from the players bench - I found that site to be too restrictive - you're constantly swinging the camera up or down ice, plus you're view is often blocked by players skating by, trying to catch up to the play.</p>
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<p>Martin - Lil Judd put me onto this lens and the 1.4 TC. You asked about the shortest focus distance - it's about 6'. Lil had some outstanding dragonfly photos posted on PN, and when I contacted her, she gave me all the info and incentive I needed to purchase this combination. Heve a look at her portfolio for more insight.</p>
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<p>Matt - I question whether placing a cold camera into a zip-lock bag is a good idea. I'm thinking a better idea might be to place the camera into a brown paper bag - that way any moisture leaving the camera will be absorbed by the paper and will eventually evaporate. That's one reason police place paper bags (instead of zip-lock) over the hands of people who have died under questionable circumstances. Moisture can be trapped in the zip-lock bag.</p>
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<p>I have a D300 and use the PRE setting every time when doing basketball/volleyball in my former high school gym. The lighting is a new white fluorescent and fairly bright - I used my ExpoDisc to obtain the original setting, then saved it as d1 per Nikon's instructions. No more guesswork.</p>
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<p>Have a look at an ExpoDisc - it's easy to carry and fits over the end of your lens.</p>
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<p>I have the Nikon 70-200 2.8 - I shoot @ 1/500, AV 2.8, pre-set WB, Manual, 1600 ISO.</p>
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<p>John - don't know anything about the lens you've asked about, but I have the 70-200 2.8 and am very happy with it. If you're shooting from the stands, you might be okay with the 180 - I was at ice level on the goal line shooting thru the glass, and found the zoom to be a real plus when the players came into the corner near my position. The 200 range was also ideal for shooting action at the opposite end of the ice. As a side note - I also have a 300mm lens I'd hoped to use for HS football. I found the fixed focal length to be a real pain when the players headed straight for me on the sidelines - I went back to my 70-200 with a 1.4 TC - much better results. Hope this helps.. Glen</p>
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<p>Lil Judd deserves consideration</p>
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<p>You didn't indicate which edition of Elements you're using, but Scott Kelby has some easy to use instructions on vignetting in his Elements 5 book at pages 291-293 and 315-317.</p>
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<p>Dieter - that's it exactly! I've printed the instructions and will have the strap in place in minutes - thanks again - Glen...</p>
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<p>Purchased mine in '91 and recently had to replace the nylon strap. Can not for the life of me figure out how to re-thread the new strap thru the leather hand grip and metal loops. Anybody?</p>
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<p>Joseph - your original question asked: "what do you do?" You already have a diversity of answers - some you're in favor of - some not. Evidently you've made up your mind regarding what you'll do should a similar situation arise. Nothing anyone else says will change your mind. To go on explaining your situation in this particular accident is moot - it's over - it happened - deal with it and move on. </p>
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<p>Joseph - I'll likely be in the minority here - but \I think I'd put down my camera and give whatever assistance I could.</p>
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<p>The overall length with back cap on, and with hood on the lens in the reverse position is about 6 3/8".</p>
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<p>No, it's really not difficult. Once you've created your watermark, you can save it then use it whenever you wish. There are some easy steps to follow, but it's certainly not difficult or time consuming.</p>
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<p>Jane - you didn't advise which level of Elements you have - I have Elements 5 - full instruction on watermarking can be found at pages 380 - 384 of Scott Kelby's "The Photoshop Elements 5 Book".</p>
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<p>Park - can you somehow position the <strong>documents </strong>against a vertical surface like a wall then use your tripod in the usual manner?</p>
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<p>Another option is expodisc</p>
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<p>John - I do a lot of basketball photography at my former high school - both boys and girls. I've had great success shooting opposing players vying for position in the lane after a failed foul shot. I also try to focus on an offensive/defensive pairing away from the play, who might be anticipating a pass. Usually, you can get a one on one situation without too many extraneous players in that shot. Another nice shot is one of the offensive guard dribbling the ball toward the offensive zone, while being checked by a defender. With any luck you'll have just those two players in the shot. One more thing - if you can - shoot with both eyes open - you'll have a better chance of capturing the shot you're after when you can see the play developing. If you'd care to see some excellant basketball/sports shots - have a look at Wilson Tsoi's portfolio here on PN - outstanding.</p>
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<p>Ray - I shoot with a Nikon 70-200 2.8, mounted on a D300. I'm not familiar with the Canon, but , yes - my understanding is you can save your settings to your camera. I shot an entire game at 1/500 sec. @ f2.8, Shutter priority, auto ISO. I positioned myself at ice level, right on the goal line, and pre-focused on the goaltender. Here's a tip I picked up from some sport shooters here at PN - shoot with both eyes open. It'll take some practice, but once you get the concept, you should see immediate results. I'll post some shots if I can figure out how to insert them into this thread.</p>
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<p>William - get your hands on Scott Kelby's "The Photoshop Elements 5 Book for Digital Photographers". Pages 380 to 387 deal with this procedure - instructions are very easy to follow. Glen Berry</p>
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<p>Black Rapid</p>
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Laura - you're shooting with the D80 - use "S" priority, and start with a shutter speed of 1/500 sec., set your aperture @ 2.8, and take your first shot with your ISO @ 800. Check your histogram, then adjust your ISO and/or your shutter speed until you attain the result you're after. It costs nothing to experiment with different ISO and shutter speeds with a digital camera - anything you don't like, simply delete. Perhaps Wilson Tsoi and some other sports photographers will provide additional info.
White Balance
in Casual Photo Conversations
Posted