geof finch

<p>I used to shoot a lot of jewelry. Most precious stones need natural light to show true colours, Artificial light indoors is only used by jewellers to 'force' the colour out of the item and fool customers into thinking the item is glamorous. I shot outdoors with items on white paper background, lighting straight down to alleviate shadows + I used various selections of white paper over the lighting to soften. eg tissue paper, folded a couple of times, or just A4 printer paper etc. otherwise try bouncing light off another white object. You will eventually get the right lighting.</p>

I don't want to appear rude but why did you buy your gear in the first place ? ....I recently took both my Canon 5D with lenses and my Nikon D700 with lenses to the USA from Australia and flew on about 20 flights, lugged the gear all around cities hotels, rent a cars, tour sites etc...was it worth it ?...well, I didn't buy my gear to leave at home and not take with me...I also lugged all my gear around NZ and Australia in wet and dry weather and my conclusion...I think it's worth it, but you might not..

I've got a 5D, a 30D and a 300D, and the switch on the 5D is harder to turn on and off than the other bodies - mine takes quite a bit of pressure to actually turn on/off and I use it often. So, my guess is its a loose switch but I'm not sure why it is loose in the first place.

Geof

Mine is okay. Sounds like the little onboard battery might have a problem.

Dan, it's a trial and error process. I get perfect results even at 1/15th, so;

Check that ONE SHOT AF is not selected, otherwise when you press the shutter button halfway in this mode it will go 'manual' even though you might have selected and set autofocus.

Next, turn IS off if you are using a tripod (the likely cause).

Next, check the camera custom functions to see if AF has been altered

Next, It's a 2nd hand lens - you have no idea of it's 'real' history.

Next, It's possible the macro mechanism focus ring was repeatedly 'forced' while the AF/MF was set to AF. This must be set to MF for any type of manual focusing.

Next, if it sat in a cupboard for a while then it may have mould on the internal contacts. See if you can notice any mould on the internal glass. Also make sure the lens wasn't removed while using IS.

Next, make sure the IS switch is actually working

Next, make sure the background is not all predominately the same colour otherwise it's difficult to achieve autofocus.

Next. try shooting manually for a day or so and see if the results are different.

If all of this doesn't help, then try and find out why the person sold the lens to you...maybe it had a problem before...

Image Stabilization doesn't work when you or the subject are moving rapidly, eg car. And it doesn't work on some EOS self timers

Miles, I forgot to mention that I was shooting sports in the rain this morning with another guy who has your same equipment. He didn't cover it. I also fit a lens hood to keep the rain off the filter and I carry lots of tissues, and a bottle of fresh water so that if a wave hits or you get spray, then use the water and tissue to clean it with. Plus I totally clean the equipment every night including the hotshoe and bayonet mount.

I shoot in the rain, salt air, salt spray, mud, sand, etc all the time with a 300D, 30D and a 5D. My thinking is if it can't withstand the elements then throw it away...My 300D has been under waves three times, submersed into a river, rained upon numerous times, used on the beach EVERY day for four years, dropped on concrete, dropped on tiles, banged on rocks, has only one tiny scratch, shot over 100,000 shutter clicks... but started to die when I shot too many full on sunsets - and to think that it was 'rubbished' as too plastic when it first came out. ps anyone want to buy a cheap camera..lol

 

Miles, you could just put a thin clear plastic bag over it if you are worried, and the leave the lens clear, fix bag with a rubber band.

I'm not sure what you are shooting with. 99% of my work is done on the beach in sand, wind, sea spray, salt air, rain etc. Some camera bodies trap sand more so than others. You can simply put a thin clear plastic bag over the body and lens and fix in place with an elastic band. Only the front lens filter needs to be exposed to the weather. To look thru the viewfinder, simply adjust the bag opening so that this is possible or cut out a little hole in the plastic bag. It beats buying a housing for the camera if you're only doing a one off shoot. Another trick (if shooting a wind/sand storm) is turn your back to the wind and shoot the other way.

Do all that Josef mentions above + get used to holding your camera bag up off the ground while getting gear out of it.

the 'SET' letters are on my 5D - they're nothing new

Bob, i've also tried cleaning both the lens and body but it made no difference. But try cleaning anyway. I use my equipment heavily in salt air everyday, so it's possible there is corrosion in the lens electrical.

Did you try another lens and see if the err 99 goes away. I vaguely remember a friend of mine having a similar problem 2yrs ago where the err 99 wouldn't go away.

Bob, you don't mention the lens you are using or whether on not you bumped or knocked the lens - err 99 is a generic message. I first noticed it on a 300D (Rebel) about 4 yrs ago using a standard 18-55mm lens. I'm not sure if the message first started after i had dropped the lens. But for the best part of 3yrs I put up with the problem . I tried the lens out again on a 30D last week and as soon as I took a shot in low light it seemed to trigger the err 99. It then did it about 30 times out of 1000 shots over the next couple of days in outdoor light on the 30D. So, in my case it definitely is a lens issue. Now i have to figure out what exactly is 'specifically' causing the err 99, because as mentioned above, it's a generic message that could be caused by a number of electrical impulses between lens and body communication.

I've had a 30D for 12 months and it's great for it's 5+ fps for sports shoots. I also have the 5D which is such a breeze to use compared to the 30D. The 5D's main advantages for me are; ISO 50 (expanded L), it's full frame sensor, and it's noise reduction on long exposures. I'm happy with a 28-135mmIS USM as a prime lens - it meets my needs at the moment for both landscapes and portrait but a faster lens would be ideal..

I faced a similar situation recently - usually I always reset camera settings after every shoot, but forgot this once.

It really depends on how bad the noise is and what the image contains. The following is what i did to fix a sunset image to fix high noise;

(1) Genuine Fractals - if you can afford it...or..

(2) PhotoShop CS or other software; Noise > 'reduce colour noise' and 'reduce dust & scratches' and even try 'de speckle'.

(3) PS or other software - enlarge the image to min 300% and use the healing brush tool over all the 'noisy' pixellated areas (some colours eg orange produce more pixellation than other colours) this method is very time consuming but it fixed an image for me so that i could enlarge to poster size for a clients living room wall.

(4) You could try converting the image to TIFF to retain data and then play around with other software to hide the noise. I use ACDSee Pro Manager to 'cover up' all my high noise images rather than toss them out. The program is loaded with so many 'enhancement' features.

(5) Convert it to Sepia, or Old Style, and make a feature of the noise rather than fight against it.

 

Please note that my contribution is only a quick fix remedy so that you don't have to toss the images out.

Vanessa, it also helps to set the metering to 'spot' so that the backlighting or dark backgrounds don't play havoc with the exposure.

Vanessa, I forgot to mention that I also use a 30D, and my 28-135 IS is the same as yours. This is an adequate combination providing you can 'hand hold'. I shoot in concerts, sport, weddings, landscapes, caves, etc etc with this lens as a prime. Usually I shoot in low light at 1/50th but can get to 1/15th sec (if ISO is getting too noisy then reduce it by compensating with lower shutter speed ), and I sometimes fit a 2x converter. However, it really comes down to how well you can hand hold, and the camera setting combination you choose, and (surprisingly) how clean you keep the sensor and lens. Just remember to remove any lens filters (polarisers etc) before shooting in low light.

If you can afford a faster L series then go for it.

I've got good results at the Sydney Opera House with just a Canon 100-300mm USM , seated about 20 rows back, with my feet propped on the seat in front (don't get caught..lol) and then resting the camera/lens on my propped up knees. I bumped up the ISO and used the available light (a couple of coloured spotlights on stage above the violinist)and selected a shutter speed to match the lens length. The result was quite sharp and not much noticeable grain/noise. Tripods weren't allowed. I do have a 28-135 IS lens which is better. It really depends on how well you can 'hand hold' - I have captured really sharp hand held full moon images using a Tamrom 200-400 with 2x converter at 1000th sec. You probably already know to use your arms like a tripod and take in a deep breath before you click. Best of luck.

Thanks Jim, I found the diagram that you posted at Todds forum, was the best way to prise the top cover.

 

Peter, thanks for your info. I pushed down on the white pin BUT it disappeared into the camera body - it fixed the onboard flash, it works now ! I will rectify the white pin at another date. Conrad's diagram and info shows how to fix that also.

I was wondering if any other owners have had a problem with the 30D 'on board

flash'. Mine doesn't even want to pop up (tried every setting possible). Canon

recommended repairer can't figure it out either so it has to be returned to

Canon head office. Another owner told me he had problems with his on board flash

compulsively working while it was in the closed position.

Any suggestions welcome.

Geof

It really depends on what or who is your benchmark. There have been 'great' photographers whose work I really don't personally like, but were given the title by art critics etc...

So were they 'great' ? ..in my eyes, well, not really. But they deserve praise for being 'good' at their personal style.

There are differing thoughts, some say that we have to have had exhibits and have our work 'recognised' but I have never had a need to do that. I am quite content with comments from friends and from clients that pay me. So, somewhere in between someone has to make an assessment of our work.

I think it also incorporates my personal assessment and honesty towards my own work - I know if my work is good when comparing it to others, and I know that my work still has a long way to go to become known as 'great'....

Neil, waterproof housing is just as expensive (if not more) than actually buying a good telephoto lens for a DSLR. I use a Canon 30D for surf shoots (5 fps shooting rate). The 30D also stands up good against salt water and air providing you clean it every day.

If you buy a 'non waterproof' camera body, then fill over the tiny screws in the camera body with some kind of wax to stop rust. And it pays to carry a bottle of fresh water and clean tissues to wash and dry the camera in case a wave hits you unexpectedly. I use a 200-400mm, and a 100-300mm lens and a 2x converter and a circular polariser to reduce the glare. If you don't want to buy a tripod then you can use a backpack to lean your gear on to steady the lens.

Ring Canon and Nikon - the electronics might not work. I think I would want to be assured that it wouldn't damage the autofocus and metering etc

I've bought a couple of camera's recently in Australia and we do the same thing here - we only need the purchase receipt. The guarantee may be the manufacturer's or it might be a 3rd party generic guarantee which means it covers all countries, with just a proof of purchase needed. I always pay with a Gold Visa credit card which carries it's own double warranty on things I buy. Apart from the warranty etc check beforehand that everything is in the box. Sometimes in Asia you don't get everything that you might expect to be included in the sale; ie make sure that EVERYTHING you expect will be in the box before you send the money ! And also be aware that Asia has a lot of 'bucket' shops - shops that are there one week but gone the next. The more reputable dealers operate out of Department stores - so it's a little bit more of a risk if it's 'online' (but we have this online risk in any country).

Also, check with customs if you have to pay import duty and check the postage cost. Sometimes it's not worth it unless you are saving a substantial amount.

I just checked out your images - the vignetting is evident on almost every image in the Death Valley series - If the vignetting is evident in the image before scanning then this suggests to me that it's a lens hood problem to start off with (is it a rubberised hood). I doubt if it's the Hoya Circular Polariser because I shoot with one too and it doesn't vignette unless I want it to - and a Circular Polariser certainly wouldn't cause vignetting in every image (because of the nature of their design)the chances of this as a cause is slim. But if the vignetting is only occurring after you scan then something else is wrong, so it's a process of elimination which should include Fuji velvia (change film type )then change the scanner itself, also try setting up colour management profile then monitor calibration and then try various compression ratios. Good luck

There could be a number of possibilities - It could be in the resizing of the image for presentation on PN. Try various compression ratios and see if anything changes. It could also be the colour management system which you have (maybe) allocated for the computor and for website destination but need to include the monitor profile AND you have to take the source (scanner) into consideration as well. I don't want to get technical but check that you aren't mixing profiles e.g cmyk setting in the scanner with RGB or sRGB in the computer. When I get time I'll write on how to correct it - but first find out what is causing it. Is it on the original capture before you scan it to computor ?

It looks like something similar to what is growing in my back yard. But more info needed - What country, State, and whether from East, North, South, West etc. Northern or Southern hemisphere plants may have different names. It's a nice colour.