ebokeh

Posted January 6, 2017 · January 6, 2017

The last i'd head - sometime last year - was that TMAX 100 was planned to be available around late November 2016. I haven't seen it for sale yet and went looking last night - it still appears to be backordered at B&H (and not readily available elsewhere).

Does anyone know what the latest update is with regard to availability? (I'm looking for 120 film specifically)

August 24, 2016

I'm trying to figure out where to find a couple of things:

<ul>

<li>Does anyone know of a place to pick up a few (~4) OEM Hasselblad 500 series strap clips? I use my Hasselblad strap all the time but it's starting to get brittle. I don't want to rip it apart for the clips but i'm interested in trying a different strap</li>

<li>Is there a recommended Bay60->67mm filter ring? I bought one of the cheap ones off of Amazon. It works but it's a really tight fit and the aluminum tabs on the bayonet mount are really sharp. It's much more difficult to attach than my Hasselblad and B+W Bayonet mount filters.</li>

</ul>

Thanks in advance for any help!

August 24, 2016

i'd whack it a bit on the body near the button with a pencil, or something of similar weight that wouldn't mar the surface of the camera. I bet it's just wedged either due to being a little bent, or by old crusty lube that's in there.

+1 to the suggestion of a CLA. I shoot mine as a hobbiest, sometimes very actively, sometimes not, and recently got them back after a CLA. the last CLA was 8 or 9 years ago. I haven't had any problems with my cameras, backs or lenses over the 15 years or so i've owned them.

February 22, 2010

forget about 'em(!)

get what you need here:

http://www.betterscanning.com/

i got a 120 holder from him a few years ago for my 4990 and have made thousands of scans with it, the quality of scan is so much better than with the epson holders it's not even worth messing with the factory ones.

October 2, 2009

Reviving this old thread cause it just came up in a search i was doing. Just tonight I was measuring the exact thing the op is asking with some of my cameras trying to get my mechanical releases back in working order.

The camera i'm using is a Leica M4. I have a few different timers, I attach them to the camera via a u-hook extension to minimize mechanical vibration (<a href="http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/70981-REG/General_Brand_NPUA20_U_Hook_Adapter.html">u-hook at b 'n h</a> )

To get my timers to trip the shutter and return i've measured that 5mm is the distance of travel for this camera. This trips the shutter and returns. You can probably go 6mm but much farther than that and the timer will extend past the travel of the shutter and lock up. I don't like having it do this as it can cause problems on other types of cameras/shutters.

My 500c/m does the same at 9mm. (so much for using the same timer on each). The 500c/m shutter release seems to have a lot more play in it (but maxes at 9mm) where as the leica one is is pretty well fixed.

YMMV, i've done this a few times before and there's some measured variation in the different cameras. The assembly tolerances of the u-hook extension is less than exact as well.

Hope this is useful to someone,

i'm glad there are still people out there using cameras that don't run on batteries!

<a href="http://www.ebokeh.com">www.ebokeh.com</a>

August 5, 2009

It's hard to say really, i assume there's a film back or two involved too?

I don't know if it's appropiate to discuss price on this forum or not either so if it's not i apologize in advance and will happily edit/remove my response.

I'd guess that you're somewhere around $1k USD. Someone else may chime in with something more accurate, i've only priced out some more recent gear recently. Sounds like a great kit though, i hope it works out!

July 22, 2009

+1 for david odess!

i sent most all of my gear to him 2-3 years ago mostly for CLA and a couple of busted focus rings. (Couple of 5xx bodies, 2-3 backs and 4-5 lenses). David did a great job and turn around was fast. Everything worked perfectly and reliably when i got it and continues to do so today after a few hundred rolls of film through it.

I recommend him whole heartedly

July 7, 2009

Thanks so much for your responses everyone, they're very much appreciated! i'm pretty impressed by the kifaru bags, it'd be really great if there were a place i could check one out in person. the one i'm most interested in is the X-RAY, but it looks like there would be a lot of options there. Here's what i've done for now - it will work out quite well but, like anything, will take some getting used to. I have an Osprey Kestrel 48 (<a href="http://www.ospreypacks.com/Packs/KestrelSeriesTorsoAdjustable/Kestrel48/">link</a> ) and i've packed my camera gear into various Lowe-Pro cases: <a href="http://products.lowepro.com/product/Inverse-100-AW,2100,7.htm">Lowe-Pro Inverse 100</a> :

<ul>

<li>-Hasselblad 500c/m, 120 Back, 80mmCF</li>

<li>- Pentax Digital Spot Meter</li>

<li>- Cable Release, Bubble Level, Dark Slide, Extra Battery for meter. Hasselblad Filters:29A, 25A, 6sND, Linear Polarizer, Yellow, Orange </li>

</ul>

<a href="http://products.lowepro.com/product/Lens-Case-1W,1950,11.htm">Lowe-Pro Lens Case 1W</a> : (x1)

<ul>

<li>Hasselblad 40mm CF</li>

</ul>

<a href="http://products.lowepro.com/product/Lens-Case-1,1946,11.htm">Lowe-Pro Lens Case LC1</a> : (x2)

<ul>

<li>Hasselblad 50mmCF, 150mmCF</li>

</ul>

<a href="http://products.lowepro.com/product/Lens-Case-2,1951,11.htm">Lowe-Pro Lens Case LC2</a> : (x1)

<ul>

<li>Hasselblad 250mmCF</li>

</ul>

<a href="http://products.lowepro.com/product/SlipLock-Pouch-60-AW,2041,43.htm">Lowe-Pro SlipLock Case 60AW</a> : (x1)

<ul>

<li>Hasselblad Proshade w/ Bay60, 250mm Mask and 120/150mask</li>

<li>2 Pro Packs of 120 film (10 rolls)</li>

</ul>

The Lowe-Pro lens case all fit the Hasselblad lenses very well. There's a grey area to be found between secure and too-secure. The price you pay is that in some cases they're a snug fit so you have to be careful of the plastic levers on the CF lenses (DoF particularly). In general none have much if any movement once in the case and zipped up.

The Kestrel 48 pack lets me pack all of the above with a bit of extra room in the main pack for clothes or food etc, definitely enough for an over-night stay. The pack is hydration pack capable and I have a 2 litre Camelbak installed. I can attach my Gitzo 1228 to the back of the pack no problem. Overall the pack is very comfortable all loaded up. This gear is well within the weight requirements of the pack and using the Lowe-Pro containers the camera equipment is about as well protected as it was in my <a href="http://products.lowepro.com/product/Photo-Trekker-AW-II,1992,14.htm">Photo Trekker AWII</a> but much more comfortable!

The only thing i couldn't find the appropiate container for was my Hasselblad 350mmCF. I do have room for it in the pack though should i find the right lens protection. It's seldom used though so it shouldn't be too big a deal to go without.

The great thing about this is that i can take everything or just a subset of gear very easily. The pack's compression straps make it really easy to recover the absent space if i leave some lenses out. I can also take the Inverse 100 solo if i choose, with just the camera, 80mm and meter. 1 or more of the other lens cases attach to the Inverse for a short walk too.

I'm going to be breaking this all in in a week or so in the field, i'll try to remember to report back on my experience.

-john (<a href="http://www.ebokeh.com">ebokeh.com</a> )

UPDATE: For those interested - the cost of the Osprey Pack + all listed lowe-pro components + camelbak bladder is almost exactly the cost of the Photo Trekker AWII pack (within $40 of retail). There are definitely deals to be had on all of the above which should wash out depending on which way you would want to go.

July 7, 2009

i'm a big fan of TMAX 100 in the 120 format, i've been using it for a few years and am very happy with it...

You can see some of my low-res scanned work here, all of the 6x6 is Tmax100:

http://www.ebokeh.com

July 5, 2009

Here's my pack with note about the contents.

It's a LowePro Photo Trekker II AW with a pretty full 5xx kit

June 30, 2009

Hi there Ed, thanks for the reply! i haven't had the opportunity to weigh it but i'm pretty sure that all loaded up it's near 40 with everything. I'm planning on most of my trips with this new configuration to be just as you're saying. Body, 2 - 4 lenses (max 4), meter, film, etc which would cut a bunch of the weight down.

The thing about the photo trekker that i don't like is that the harnass is made of squishy foam which goes flat pretty quick (again, most likely due to weight). I also would like to be able to carry other things easily (clothes and food mainly) and the photo trekker doesn't allow for that very well.

A couple of times i've pulled my extra 120 back and 350mm and crammed that compartment full of clothes. It works out ok but not great (and it's very limited).

I recently put on a "proper" hiking pack of approximately the same footprint and weight of my photo trekker and it was much more comfortable and distributed the weight so much better onto my hips and shoulders that it made my mind up right then and there..

June 30, 2009

Hi there - i've restarted my search for an alternate carrying system for my medium format camera. For the last 3 years or so i've been using a LowePro Photo Trekker AW. It's pretty loaded up and i've used it a lot and carried it a fair distance along with full camping supplies using the little side-car pack that comes along with it and a hydration pack strapped to the side. I've definitely over-done it with that pack a few times. My impression of it is about the same as others have had: - uncomfortable for anything more than about a mile or two (especially with weight) - generally not useful (harmful) after 5 miles (again, fully packed) - heavy and clunky - doesn't make good use of space - it does an excellent job of keeping my gear safe and sound (seriously, 0 complaints) Here's a picture of it in its current configuration along with description of the contents and layout (without the camping supplies). I use this all the time: /> I'm going to use a real hiking backpack (day pack) to carry my gear. I'm looking at individual lens protectors and camera protection so i can pick and choose what i bring with me on any given hike. I'm looking at using the lowe-pro lens holders (http://products.lowepro.com/catalog/Lens-Cases,11.htm) for the lenses. I still need a suitable case for my camera (500c/m + 120 back + 80mmCF). I want something that's not big and bulky (compact) but protects the camera well. As far as the pack I want to be able to carry a subset of the gear from my PhotoTrekker (above) as well as extra clothes, food etc... I've been looking at packs and have a few that are close but nothing i'm head over heals about yet. Sizes between 35-45 liters looks to be right. Pack needs: - Top and Side entry - Compatible with an Internal Hydration pack - External Tripod Attachment - Good harness with solid waist belt/support Current short list:

<a href="http://www.thenorthface.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=58298&storeId=207&catalogId=10201&langId=-1&from=subCat&parent_category_rn=11748&variationId=0C5">Northface Partol (discontinued)</a>

- Can't find one in person to check out but on paper it looks like a good fit for what i want to do

<a href="http://www.thenorthface.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=70160&storeId=207&catalogId=10201&langId=-1&from=subCat&parent_category_rn=11748&variationId=7D9">Northface Spire 40</a>

- No side entry, external attachment points could be better, don't know how it'll work for my tripod <a href="http://www.thenorthface.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?productId=70164&storeId=207&catalogId=10201&langId=-1&from=subCat&parent_category_rn=11748&variationId=395">Northface Fulcrum 35</a>

- Poor tripod attachment, lacking additional pockets, it's just sort of one large compartment.

Any help or advice would be appreciated!! Thanks in advance!!

October 15, 2008

check out the new Canon G10. (If you search for it here or on dpreview or flickr you'll find plenty of examples of shots.)

I've got one and am finding the ISO400 and 800 to be quite nice! It's all relative of course so don't try to compare it to a 5D but i had a Leica DLUX3 a year or so ago and got rid of it after a week cause the performance >ISO100 was so bad. The G10 is the best small (almost) pocket camera i've used...

June 29, 2008

you carry much bigger tripods than i do ;)

I've been able to make sharp images without a cable release but it's much more trouble. Recently i was shooting off in the woods and managed to lose my cable release which caused a weekend full of cramped fingers. My vote's for cable-release at all times when you've got one.

-john

http://www.ebokeh.com

April 28, 2008

Don't know if this is helpful or not... The original post didn't specify which pentax digital spot meter he was asking about. I use the "newest" version of it.

The filter that it takes is a 40.5mm. I have the lens cap that came with it and does not have a size printed on it. A quick measure of it shows a 43mm-44mm diameter. (it's kinda beat up).

Looks like this:

April 11, 2008

i believe that at 1/15 (and slower) the shutter uses a different timing mechanism and it sounds as if that spring/mechanism is gummed up (technical term). Others may be able to shed more light on it.

I'd say you're probably fine to exercise it but it may not get you anywhere. regardless it sounds like it needs a little CLA (or maybe a little more).

I don't think that 'working the shutter and aperture rings' will do anything to fix this as it sounds like the lubrication simply dried up..

-john

ebokeh.com

April 6, 2008

picture caption should read:

"Fogged on the RIGHT?"

April 6, 2008

Howdy - i shoot primarily b&w 120 film and process at home. I've never run

across this particular problem.

In January after a trip to Yosemite i processed a few rolls of TMAX 100 120. Out

of the 8 or so that i ran 4 or 5 of them were fogged very evenly across the

entire length and width of the roll. Fogged maybe isn't the right word, it

appeared as though they have been exposed to something equating to about

ZONE-VII at normal development over the entire surface area.

I was thinking that perhaps my film back was in need of new traps but i checked

out a roll of film from 6 years or so ago when that was the problem and it was

obviously a different problem.

I just finished processing a bunch of film including one roll that had been

sitting on my desk for a few weeks and it suffers from the same problem. All the

rest is perfectly normal.

To (try to) diagnose the problem i took my two Hasselblads out with me on a trip

to Death Valley (90% of the time i use an old 500c/m it was the camera that had

had light seal problems several years ago). I shot 1 day with the 500c/m and the

rest with a 503cw using a different back with each to try to uncover the

problem. Every day i was shooting in the strong desert light from dawn to dusk.

After processing the film this afternoon it looks like both cameras/backs are

performing just fine.

I had thought it could have been an airport x-ray machine as i've flown with my

kit in the last few months and tend to just let it ride through the x-ray

machine but a bunch of film i shot in brooklyn on that trip was just fine.

Any idea on what this is? Did i get a batch of film that was ruined at the

factory? (I tend to buy in bulk (20-60 rolls at a time, usually from B&H). The

emulsion type and frame numbers that are on the film appear normal.

I've tried to attach a digital image of the negative taken with a small

point-shoot. The strip on the right is the "fogged" roll, the two on the left

are "normal." (The strange blue light is from a head-lamp i was trying to use to

light the dark room i was in, the image quality is poor but you can see what i'm

talking about, i tweaked the levels a little in PS to make the difference a

little more obvious.)

The film is all 120 TMAX-100. All of the negatives were developed for the same

amount of time/temperature and from the same batch of chemistry.

thanks for any insight!

-john

eBokeh.com<div></div>

April 4, 2008

I can't find the requisite data at the moment but i believe that the biggest problem will be the size of the image circle of most of the Hasselblad Lenses (C, CF, CFE and CFi).

This has been brought up in the past as one of the limitations of the hasselblad flexbody as well as most/all lenses do not allow for much movement due to the size of the image circle.

Here's one of the <a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?msg_id=001IRa">past threads</a> to that effect.

-john

<a href="http://www.ebokeh.com">eBokeh.com</a>

January 24, 2008

I used a Domke F2 bag as my primary for 8 years or so. I used it walking around in the field as well as travel in cars, trains and planes. (Planes are really no problem as long as you just stick it in the overhead compartment)

I typically carried a Hasselblad 500c/m with A12+80mm (C with hood, CF no hood), 250CF, 150CF, 50CF, 40CF (when needed) Pentax Digital Spot Meter, >=2 propacks of 120, cable release/level/filter paper etc, 3 Bay60 filters and an extra back in the side pocket in a padded wrap.

All of this was able to be carried without over-stuffing the bag - this was obviously at (about) capacity but worked out perfectly well and safely - none of my gear was ever damaged or abused at all.

Over time i've taken to using a LowePro PhotoTrekker (1 size down from the largest) it holds a little more gear and definitely protects it more but is more difficult to work out of than the Domke.

Anyway - you can definitely make it work with a Domke. I throw mine in the trunk or suitcase and pack it up with what i need now when i'm at my location..

-john

www.ebokeh.com

January 18, 2008

I've got a bunch of work that's all uncropped/full-frame 6x6 black and white (mostly outdoors/nature/northern-california) at:

<a href="http://www.ebokeh.com">eBokeh.com</a>

my gallery here at photo.net has a few as well - feel free to check them both all out!

November 6, 2007

<a href="http://www.ebokeh.com">www.ebokeh.com</a>

All hasselblad 500, all full-frame, all the time!

;)

August 23, 2007

52.5mm is essentially normal in 35mm film format terms. The "normal" focal length in medium format is ~80mm

July 19, 2007

Could you let me know where "Beat Images" is? i live in the area and frequently visit Palo Alto to go to Keeble and Shuchat but i'm not familiar with Beat Images - and i couldn't uncover anything online about it either..

May 29, 2007

Stream in the National Redwood Forest - Northern California

-john

<a href="http://www.ebokeh.com">www.ebokeh.com</a><div></div>

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