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boris_brecelj

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Posts posted by boris_brecelj

  1. 235 USD difference is IMHO not worth it. Get just the body and order a NOMAD MuVo2 4GB Digital Music Player (200 USD??), use a screwdriver and voila you've got a 4GB Microdrive and a useless mp3 player shell.<p>

     

    Instructions from <a href="http://forums.dpreview.com/forums/read.asp?forum=1023&message=7308713"> dpreview.com</a>,<br>

    Photos <a href="http://www.andymack.com/mylog/pivot/entry.php?uid=standard-868">here</a><p>

     

    regards, boris

  2. I have the Oly E-1 and I must say that as far as DSLRs go it is great. Everything is weather-sealed, built like a tank - rock solid.

     

    The standard battery runs for ages it took me quite some time to stop being nervous when it's gonna run empty ;) The viewfinder is very bright although a bit "small" compared to an "M"

     

    I only have one lens - the 14-54/2.8-3.5 zoom. I am anxiously awaiting Olympus (or Sigma) to introduce 18mm (35mm) and 25mm (50mm) but unfortunately they do not seem to be on the priorities list of Olympus.

     

    More or less I can only praise the camera except for the small lens selection but hopefully that will change.

     

    The camera does tend to have a bit more noise from ISO 800 and upwards than 10D (as per dpreview) but I can only restate what has been said before - the noise is not obtrusive and has a very "organic" look to it. That said ISO 800 and 1600 are OK for me but 3200 does have a bit too much noise for my liking.

     

    All in all I am very pleased with E-1!

     

    regards, boris

  3. <b>M Sandberg</b> wrote:<p>

    <i>And Boris, if you regard the N8008 as no more than an oversized P & S "thingy," you ought to take a closer look. And if your opinion holds, and you find the thingy sitting in a box at home, send it here, won't you?</i>

    <p>

    Sorry, too late! ;) <br>

    The P&S reference was made with regard to MY use of F801 otherwise I am well aware that it is an awesome body!<p>

     

    regards, boris

  4. M7 will operate on 1/60 and 1/125 _without_ batteries, all other speeds are electronically controlled and thus require batteries. Otherwise I have absolutely no idea how the M7 batteries will fare in such freezing conditions.

     

    I guess you (and some other forum members) find AE convenient but if using Leica M rangefinders has taught me one thing is that you do not need exposure automation. Sure it can be convenient but more often I find it distracting and erroneous.

     

    If you use your (manual) camera often enough you begin to judge light level/exposure very precisely - especially you learn to predict the differences of the sunny side/shade, you learn to observe light changes, you learn to "track" light. If it's in the shade, just click two f/stops more open and voila - YOU decide on what you are exposing.

     

    But this feeling/sense can only be developed by using a fully manual camera since it forces you to think and observe - believe me in no time it's no thinking at all.

     

    My first camera was a fully automatic AF F801/N8008 thingy with a slow zoom - an oversized Point And Shoot. My next stop was a manual focus AE only Nikon F3 with three primes and 80-200/2.8 zoom. Now most of the time I use a completely manual M6TTL with two primes, 35 and 50. And this last combination is the one I am most confident with that I will achieve the desired results - including exposure no matter what the situation.

     

    So I would strongly advice you to consider an M6TTL or even MP since I believe that proper exposure is not such an "evasive" capture as some would like you to believe. And you must consider M6TTL/MP for two reasons - one is that in the arctics? snow is abundant and AE and snow don't mix well - you have to compensate exposure, the other one is obvious - dependence on batteries.

     

    But caveat - the above on exposure only applies if you use your cameras regularly.

     

    Regards, boris

  5. It all depends on the type of shooting you do. My main combo is 35 and 50. Depending on what I will photograph I take 35 'chron or 'lux and 50 'chron or 'nocti. The 90 doesn't see much mileage with me and using Tri-Elmar makes me wonder why I don't get a P&S.

     

    <p>

     

    As somebody above said 'chrons might be fast enough for you - again depending on the shooting you do. If you shoot people and other moving subjects then 1.4 won't do you much good (shallow DOF). Personally if I go out at night and I know I will be photographing people in bars and clubs I usually take the 'chrons because 'lux @1.4 has too shallow DOF. If I go somewhere that I know subjects will hold reasonable still the nocti of 'lux come into play...

     

    <p>

     

    I like to shoot tight so 35 is more than wide enough for ME! If I were in your place I would start with 35/1.4 and 50/2 (or even 50/2.8) and after using them for a year or so decide weather to go wider or longer.

     

    <p>

     

    From my personal experience: I started with 90/2 and 35/2, later got the 50/2.8 and Tri-Elmar. From this set the most used were 50 and 35. 90 saw the occasional use and Tri-Elmar was collecting dust. Later I got the 50/1 and 50/2. And this year I treated myself to 35/1.4.

     

    <p>

     

    The lenses I _like_ most are 35 and 50 ?chron. The lenses I _use_ most are 35 ?lux and 50 ?chron. Nocti gets used from time to time but due to its size and weight I wouldn't dream of taking it on any extended travel (backpacking), if your idea of travel is flying and driving to and from resorts then the weight argument loses it's value...

     

    <p>

     

    I was really sorry for Tri-Elmar, on the paper it seemed such a wonderful lens and I was absolutely sure and positive it would be my main lens, it was a lens I just had to have. Once I got it and started using it, I found that it is way to big and way to slow for my liking.

     

    <p>

     

    Wider than 35mm (maybe 28??) ? well I just don?t like the perspective anymore and I used to love wide angle, on Nikon 20/2.8 was my favorite lens. With Leica my taste began to shift ? could be that the constant looking trough the 0.85 viewfinder does that to a person :)

     

    <p>

     

    best regards,

  6. <i>Is this because the slide is not totally flat</i>

     

    <p>

     

    Yup! When you project the slide it bulges due to the heat of the light source - After a few seconds you can see it plop and then you get the focus problem... There are special projector lenses that resolve this issue but then the glass mounted slides are not sharp since they are flat...

     

    <p>

     

    best regards,

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