jason_tuck

three possible scares: #1 they refuse the hand search and pass

through xrays until satisfied (they increase the power slightly till

happy)

#2 they do a hand inspection and open EVERY roll "just to make sure"

#3 risk it and put the rolls in your suitcase (not camera bag or film

bag) with your clothes and hope to the good lord that they don't care

about what your clothing looks like...

best bet: have it shipped to a destination (you CAN get

the "sensitive to xray" stickers) or buy it when you get there (very

hard and pricey)

<p>

personally number 3 sounds like the best bet since HIE shouldn't be

much more sensitive to xrays than any other film you take, but $10 a

roll can make you crazy...

like the others say, buy the new body use the old equipment for IR, i

use a Minolta XGM for shooting HIE and have to tape up the back (too

lazy to replace the felt) to shoot, but go with what works, instead

of settling for the "naughty, naughty fog..."

<p>

---RED

if the outer edge of the print is grey (outside the print area) is

grey it might be the chems or your safelight, I had a similar problem

when my fix went bad and the prints would gradually darken over a

couple hours after drying, otherwise i'd play with contrast filters

and make longer exposures on the test strips, or simply try a

different, new pack of paper...

why not just buy the new camera and use your old equipment to

continue shooting HIE with, that's what I did, my backup body is my

infrared only camera now, it seems I use it more now because of the

wonderful <CLICK> my old minolta XGM makes over my maxxuum's near

silent operation..

<p>

a little more than my 2 cents...

i used to shoot that stuff and lemme tell ya' i've gotten green tones

sepia, bluish, and b&w all from the same lab, it is caused by the

paper it was printed on, those lab prints should be used as proofs

not as representations of your ability at its fullest, that's why I

did the switch and went to the darkroom for some serious b&w

mayhem....

<p>

"sweet, sweet indicator stop, ooohh how you burn my eye's with your

vaporous ways..."

sorry but kodachrome 25 (tooooo maaannny colors) is a great film for

such work (very unforgiving though), but kodak TMX is my all purpose

b&w... fair tonality and darn fine grain for a 100ISO

Don't mean to be a jerk, but I don't know if anyone makes b&w film in

APS format, if so im uninformed. and taken literally a camera

doesn't develop film, you do. and if you're gonna build a darkroom,

you might as well buy a nice 35mm or 120 outfit beforehand...

Id personally (depending on subject matter) would use Kodak Royal

Gold 1000ISO, it is pretty grainy and super fast...

I use a blue 23cII with two wooden clothespins zip-tied together in

an "L" shape to hold my polymax filters, great enlarger...

the agitation IS VERY IMPORTANT, I tried it in two occasions, by

treating the HIE as TMX 100 tmax 1:4 8@68, the rolls were shot nearly

identicaly (including subject matter) and the first one was gently

serenaded (yes I love my reels) then I beat the stuffing out of the

second one and wow! "!!!agitate aggressively for poor pics!!!"

tmax 1:4 8@68 is wrong, but for the sake of argument, the second roll

looked like TMZ pushed to 6400ISO unless you like mosaic photos,

treat HIE like your wife, lovingly...

<p>

Jason

good light sources: plant day-glo light bulbs (for plants and

reptiles)

or just tip your toaster on its side and turn it on(works but don't

recommend it!!!), or use "hot-lights" (no not the expensive studio

hot lights) the cheap $10 halogen work lights you buy at Kmart, I

myself play with active light sources instead of a flash, saves me

some guess work and is much more fun...

<p>

"sit your partner in front of the stove! turn it on and watch it

glow!"

<p>

Jason

Do it the way NGI does it, as you shoot film, number them, then when

ready to ship, send the odds and even numbered ones in separate

packages, (for 500 rolls though, do four or five packages) that way,

even if one or two packages don't make it (due to xrays or getting

lost) you still have ALOT of your film, you probably should either

have your film shipped this way also (to your destination) or just

spend the big dollars and buy it when you get there.

<p>

I can just imagine a person carting 500 rolls of film in a huge lead

box on wheels saying "no, it's part of the Intl. Space station,

really..."

gotta love it...

<p>

Jason

If it wasn't stored in a refridgerator for all those years, I'd just

throw it out, if your parents can't remember what was on the film,

then it probably wasn't worth taking a picture in the first place, I

was in a similar situation a while ago with a few rolls of old TMX

100 and they were ONLY (I was 15 back then) like 7 years old, the

result was negatives that had no image on them, (I've had old color

films come out after all those years with the usual 60's blob effect

though) waste of my chems, and time...

<p>

sorry bout the negativity, I just feel the 25+ minutes spent

developing the film could be better spent reading, or playing with

your dog, or something else...

Don't add %25-30, just add $20-30 to the price, think of it,

$2-3 paper (for me,heheh)

$2-3 chemistry

$3 for the use of your pens ($30/cheap set of em' round here)

$5-15 sitting fee (for the portrait)

then add $20-30+ for your time and effort

---------

= $32-54 (remember, it IS art!!)

Really, size does matter, second, do what I did, sell your car, boat,

house, and dog, so you can afford to develop your prints;

third, umm... ok no number three...

<p>

<p>

Jason

Use the T400CN, not the B&W+ the t400 stuff looks great on color

paper compared to the b&w+; although the t400 stuff is harder to find

and the sepia tone found on c41 b&w really depends on the minilab,

I've gotten them back green, and sepia, and even blue.

Then again, the t400cn does print pretty well on b&w paper (if you're

doin' it yourself, "don't trust the labs!!!!!")

Just treat the HIE kodak stuff like Tmax 100 using TMAX developer, it

seems to reduce the grain...

I don't know about you guys, but I've been shooting for only bout'

two years now (yes, I'm only 20)and when I started, I had to use

kodak T-400CN because it cost 17-20 bucks to have real b&w developed

(per roll), and took 2-3 weeks at best before you could see your

results....

Really, until the beginner in question decides he's gonna invest

in a darkroom, (like I did quickly!!) he's gonna get more short-term

satisfaction out of his new hobby (it's what kept me goin') if he can

have his pics in an hour instead of weeks.

T400CN is a good film for beginners, but TMX and HIE are better for

pro's like me (yes, yes, I get paid just like the rest of you guys

and gals out there...)

<p>

"wow, look at the bellows on THAT beseler... :> "

<p>

Jason Tuck

I use my Handspring Visor, works great for note-taking and

calculating, plus the backlight on it does not emit (barely) IR and

the visible light is so weak i have to set the visor down (face down)

on the sheet of RC III i'm using to fog it...

<p>

great, I am now off topic...

<p>

Jason

I do that all the time also, thats why I am trying to mark all my

finished rolls, (I don't know how my unused rolls get mixed in with

my used rolls either, maybe the unused ones get jealous and jump to

the door of my fridge?!?) otherwise, there are three posibilities:

1:> it was and unused roll

2:> the development got messed up somewhere along the way and you

blanked the negs when you pulled em' out to look at them.

3:> you got a "cursed" roll, one in a million... (check those dates!!)

<p>

thats all I gotta say...

Jason Tuck

heck, It's so easy I got three datasheets from the kodak web site,

bought my chemicals, and followed the directions on the back labels,

but developing prints from the negatives was even easier, so I let my

7 year old beagle try the "bessy" out and sure enough, my prints and

films are done before I get home from work,

<p>

...Now where did the dog put the newspaper...

I've tried both, examined both with an 8x loupe, gotten many, many

crappy prints, I suggest, USE REEL (punn!) B&W, but the T400CN is the

better, as mentioned earlier the B&W+ looks soft compared to the

t400cn but they both give a "dreamy" softness that I never liked...