neil_hanawalt

If you test, you can be familiar with what color temp your lights and boxes put out, and adjust your camera's white balance to match. If your boxes are different brand or different ages, you may have to deal with one box being warmer or cooler than than another. Same brands from same design era have a better chance of being consistent. You have to expect that your lights may put out a different color temps at different power settings as said above. Testing is the key, it can be time consuming and a pain, but there is no way around it if acuracy is your need.

It has less detail than the Browser preview, even at 100%.

Where would I find the automatic noise reduction setting?

I looked at Preferences > General... and found Interpolation option settings, but I don't think that is it (?)

OK, This I do not get. With my CS file browser open, and the preview image area

enlarged. I opened the image and sized to the same size as the preview image

(visually). The preview image is sharper than the opened image. Looking at the

opened Image I would not use it because it is not sharp enough, But looking at

the preview in the browser... it is significantly sharper. Why and how can this

be? (Shot with Nikon D1h, Normal jpeg, 3200 ISO)

I suggest you shoot at ISO 1600 to get a faster shutterspeed. Also use a monopod. These would make your image sharper. I am rareley satisfied with the sharpness of 1/250th for sports. If sharpness is a problem (you did not say it was), you could shoot an even higher ISO if the 30D will do it. My experiance is that above 1600 the increased noise will be a trade-off though. I have used noise reducing software with good results when shooting at ISO 3200.

-Neil

I use one regularly for photoshop. It took some getting used to, but now I prefer it. I also have a mouse pluged in for general computer navigation. I only use the tablet for photo manipulation.

I am in the process of receiving help from NIK with the performance of their software "Dfine". They will not refund $ for a downloaded version. I too would like to benifit from reading a comparison of noise reduction software products. I'm impressed with Neat Image, if only because I had good results in the first 10 minutes of using it, And I have the Demo version.

I saw this thread after buying NIK Dfine earlier today as a download (also noise reducing) for $99. I just downloaded the NEAT Demo, and after testing both software products, I have foud NEAT to be much better. The noise reducing is more comlete and the bigest advantage is it retains detail which Dfine would not. Now... I am a new user of both of these, but I got results fast with NEAT. I will have to wretle with Dfine to see I can make it work as well, If not, I'll be asking for a refund so I can send those funds for the full Version of NEAT!<div></div>

Heres the deal, sports photography is a percentges game. You have to shoot alot to get a little. And to increase your percentage you must have a fast frame per second camera, 5 to 8fps. The best shots are when your camera is in between shutter actuations. This is a bummer. I normaly use my old (for digital) Nikon D1h which is 5 fps. Last Friday night I thought I would try my D70s, won't do that again. At 3 fps I caught all the junk and few of the gems. When this is the case I rely on some non-action shooting, catching the emotions of the game and sideline activity, to come home with some good shots. Read the following article about how to get good focus for sports: http://www.kenrockwell.com/tech/sports.htm#focuspriority

You must have a stadium with strong lights. I have been photographing high school football here, but have to go ISO 3200 and still a bit under exposed most of the time. Does anyone use a flash, and what method?

One of the great uses of a program like photoshop is the ability to combine two exposures together to get the best of each. For example, you could combine the best sky exposure with the best foreground exposure to get the best of both (would have to be the same framing with a tripod so they could match-up). This would be using two layers and erasing areas with precision (among other methods). Also, the word editing is commonly describing going through a group of photo's and eliminating the rejects, what you are talking about would be more accurately described as photo manipulation or enhacement.

How do some of you deal with this... You do a portrait session, expose 20-30

frames. You edit them down to the 10 or 15 best. Then the client asks to see

the rest. They know you clicked the shutter more than 15 times. I get tired of

clients wanting to see the junk (eyes closed, talking mouth, poor expressions).

I grow weary of the occasional client not trusting my judgement. What do you

think? I want to tell them that we pare them down for a reason and these are

the best. In other words, No, you can not see more options.

Good info by others above, I suggest reading this article: www.kenrockwell.com/tech/sports.htm#focuspriorityalso and read your manual to get familiar with your settings.