lucafoto

<p>I use the CP-4 with my 580 EX I, and have thrown a thousand plus flashes with a fast recycle before the batteries start to wain; using 12 AA Nimh 2700Amp hour rechargeables- 8 in the CP-4 and 4 in the Flash. It conveniently mounts to the side of my RRS WPF-1 Folding Flash Bracket, making for a compact setup that is not too heavy to carry around.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I just received my 2nd official Canon Battery, in the case of my new 5DII, there is not enough data out there for me to feel comfortable with a non Canon Battery. <br>

But for my 5DI and 20D the non-canon batteries have higher Amp hours for less money.<br>

Over time I hope to learn that there is no need to worry about which battery is right for the 5DII.</p>

<p>Only if it were Canon's 14mm, not Sigma's.<br>

http://www.the-digital-picture.com/Reviews/Canon-EF-14mm-f-2.8-L-II-USM-Lens-Review.aspx</p>

<p>The Best is what You do with it, and that is a function how well you know how to use the tools of photography.<br>

Simply put Canon offers great lenses ("L" glass), and Nikon offers great features (Too many to list!). <br>

Challenge your self to be better, not your equipment.</p>

<p>I am not sure of your problem being directly camera related. If this were an endemic issue there would indeed be more of a market for the pro-sumer. Rather, Manufactures invest in Face Recognition Auto Focus and the like.To improve your photographs, I suggest, if you have not already so endeavored:<br>

Shooting RAW will yield the best possible result from your camera's sensor, understanding your camera's autofocus or simply using manual focus will get your subject clear and sharp as possible, a balance of ISO, Shutter Speed and Aperture are what you need for having enough light reach the sensor. Knowing the MTF of your lenses will give you the ranges of optimal sharpness for your glass. Learn your tools and they will serve you well.<br>

Tethering will help with the instant gratification, but do you want to be watching your Monitor Screen or do you want to be shooting? The WIFi transmission really cool, but rather expensive for a simple convenience. <br>

But by all means if you have an active studio and assistants, tethering and WIfi become more of a necessity rather than an indulgence.</p>

<p>Happy Shooting</p>

It is not about the camera it is about the photographer,

...but my primary excuse for upgrading and getting new equipment is that I have reached the limitations of my existing

arsenal of gear. I do try to exhaust all creative options to achieve the same goal as the New Piece of Equipment would/

must be designed to do before dropping the loads of money to Canon via Adrorama or B+H. As I get income from my

photographs I have been able to equitably fund my equipment expenditures, and if a job mandates a certain piece I will

make the investment knowing the future benefit.

If you feel that you have reached the limitations of your equipment, try harder with what you have.

After at least one or two personal photographic technique achievements, breakthroughs and understandings; then

establish a goal toward your upgrade.

With all of the announcements of new releases, soon will be a great time to snatch up the existing product stock, take a

look at the G9.

BTW I have a 20D with a Battery Grip in Great condition that I would sell for $600. :P

Seriously, if you are looking at upgrading, look at lenses. Investing in fast lenses at the focal lengths that fit Your view

will be a good way to broaden your photographic range in a way that will be transferable to future Canon bodies (get EF-

lenses if you ever plan to go to full frame).

Happy Shooting!

http://www.calumetphoto.com/item/CB40190K/

Something pricey from Calumet.

When the angle of the horizion, or any non conventional method of photography is used it can be one of three things;

intentional like Nadine and DaVinci see link http://www.users.globalnet.co.uk/~noelh/MonaLisa.htm,

accidental and fortunately it looks acceptable,

or purely created by ignorance of what is being captured by the camera.

It is only the latter that requires endeavor, and once noticed can be fixed in post processing.

I love mine. I can count on it being fast at f 2.8, and on my 5D it shows a great wide exaggerated 180 deg view, and on

my 20D the some of barrel distortion is nicely cropped. You guess which is which ;)

<a href=" title="20080329-Pier23 by lucafotogne, on Flickr"><img

src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2415/2378542725_f6cfdcdc44.jpg" width="500" height="334" alt="20080329-Pier23"

/></a>

<a href=" title="Charcoal Kilns by the Light of a Full Moon (wide)

by lucafotogne, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2013/2360797668_0d491bcb02.jpg" width="500"

height="334" alt="Charcoal Kilns by the Light of a Full Moon (wide)" /></a>

Congratulations for your Bro!

This occasion will never happen again, at least until he goes through Graduate School.

Get the lens that will get you in close to see the pride on his face. Also bring a wide angle

(<35mm on the 20D) to capture the whole event.

Cheers

I tried a Cokin IR filter (89B) on my 5D with a 24-70mm 2.8 and was able to produce

these Grayscales:

<a href=" title="Stovepipe Well

Dunes by lucafotogne, on Flickr"><img

src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2216/2360802380_02ac26834a_m.jpg" width="240"

height="160" alt="Stovepipe Well Dunes" /></a>

<a href=" title="Stovepipe Well

Dunes by lucafotogne, on Flickr"><img

src="http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2409/2360803520_7d4a826874_m.jpg" width="240"

height="160" alt="Stovepipe Well Dunes" /></a>

Water, in a camel-bak, as much as you can carry.

I was in Death Valley last October and couldn't get enough! This time of year the wild

flowers are beginning to bloom, and the valley saw a good amount of rain so the bloom

should be bountiful.

I bought a 15mm Fisheye just for my trip, I also used a 24-70mm, and a 50mm. I rarely

used my 70-200.

Your 60mm will come in handy, but you should look to something wider to capture the

wonderful landscapes.

I strongly recommend a circular polarizing filter, it will enhance the colors that abound.

Remember Circular not Linear just look it up on here ;)

With your tripod it is handy to have the wired remote trigger to put the camera in Bulb

Mode for long exposures.

As for dust; I would start with the air bulb to blow away any dust, then one of those

retractable brush/ buffing head combo pens, sometimes a cloth. I always kept my lenses

filtered except at night, and then only un-protected when shooting.

One other thing to bring is a really big flashlight, paste the link in your browser to find

which photo I am talking about.

http://www.flickr.com/gp/61547970@N00/ze8X08

Email me if you want more details of my trip.

I am hopeful that there will be a Mark II version that takes advantage of the Digic III

processor.

"How big of a Hive?" I like that!

I use two AB800's and an ABR800 ring light in a room 12x14x8 ft with a south facing

window. For that space I sometimes have too much light and usually only use two, with

the power rarely above 1/4, even when reflecting. I use a Black velvet backdrop to absorb

all the extra light and I like the dramatic contrast it produces.

http://www.flickr.com/gp/61547970@N00/1t523t

Outdoors full power on the AB800 can be enough if you are close, but for a large group or

subject I bet the AB1600 would give better results.

I have an assortment of modifiers and stands from Amvona on eBay, really low prices,

quality build.

Alien Bees are a great way to build a Starter kit. They are relatively inexpensive, put out decent variable light, and they are lightweight.

It is that last part of lightweight that is the mixed blessing. All of my AB's have cracks and fissures in the plastic from normal use- my point is you Will get what you pay for at the low price of the Bees.

I have used Amvona on eBay for many of my light modifiers and stands. Great prices, and quality build.

No experience with Profoto

Wow things got stirred up!

What are you saying Mike?

All I need is a camera phone! ?

I do not have a scanner at home and therefore would be paying a lab to do my scans, and

I expect I will pay for the highest quality scan they offer... any recommendations for labs

on the San Francisco Peninsula?

Chris, I have done the panoramic stitching, and enjoyed the results, thanks for the

suggestion.

But I am searching Ebay right now for a LF deal

I have found this online link useful...

http://www.dofmaster.com/dofjs.html

Thank you all for your diverse and encouraging comments. I will not be abandoning

digital, but the advice above echos my own considerations about moving to Large Format.

My landscape and architectural shots are generally pre-planned and timed with the

sunlight so the methodical aspects of LF are perfect for me.

Also the bit about retaining value.... that is the one I will tell my wife after I spend $5K!

Thanks for the link to the Toho, very enticing...

Bill that is an awesome B/W shot, what was it shot with?

I am sure this question is not unique, but in my searches of previous posts left me wanting...

I shoot digital, Canon 5D and 20D.

I have become sensitive to the limitations of 12MP and 8MP respectively, in my prints; I want to print 2 ft

x 3 ft or larger for landscapes, architectural, and portraits.

I find the photos that I am drawn to turn out to be produced with a view camera. I am familiar with film

and I am not daunted by the manual nature of using an adjustable lightproof box with film on one end and

a lens on the other.

now for the question...

Invest in a 4x5 view camera and associated paraphernalia, or invest in more megapixels and continue to

use the Canon lenses I have?

I do not expect a definitive answer from this post, but would appreciate a dialog to help me illuminate the

pros and cons.